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John Rudd

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  1. Yes, I had thought that it might be M1.6 but had not got round to measuring or gauging the hole size.... So I think buying some M1.6 screws is in order.... Many thanks...
  2. Gents, thnx for the replies. the tapped hole is less than 2.00mm, so its not an M2 thread.... Retapping is an option that I'll keep in mind.
  3. I recently changed the gear sets to metal types on my Emax servos. I find the original horn fixing screw doesn’t fit. Does anyone know what the thread size is on the brass shaft?
  4. Oh dear, shame it clashes with the Reno air races that week.....so, do I go to the fly in or Reno? Hmm....choices choices...
  5. Slight differences in diodes' forward voltage characteristics will cause at least one of them to overheat.... Adding a small resistor to each will lead to better current sharing.....( similar to adding small resistances to transistors in series pass voltage regulator circuits where the series element  comprises two or more devices...) Edited By John Rudd on 16/03/2019 14:46:13
  6. Are these power supplies linear transformer based or switch mode? Either way, there ought to be a means of reducing the output voltage to a more acceptable level..... Failing that a shunt regulator could be constructed and used to power the more voltage sensitive charger...( more robust than using diodes...) Edited By John Rudd on 16/03/2019 14:39:47
  7. First and foremost....tapers are not meant to be struck to make them fit together.....the best way is to place a piece of soft wood on the drill table, place chuck on spindle and feed the spindle down thus pressing the chuck onto the wood.... The best way to check for fit is to use Micrometer blue on the shaft and see how much is deposited on the chucks mating taper...( experience here would help) The spindle taper should be a ground finish, similar to the bore of the chuck. If machined correctly, there should be no discernable run out( subject to the tolerances of the machining if the rest of the machine!) I'd wait to see what the service dept say before progressing...
  8. The Sieg machine referred to is the latest version, running a 500 watt brushless motor, classed as the 7 x 14...well worth the asking price.
  9. Posted by John Duncker on 14/02/2019 15:23:17: the base lathe is made by Sieg. It is clear that they are thrown together at the factory by workers on piecework they do work 'out of the box' as they are no longer thickly smeared with heavy grease but just a light coating of an anti rust agency. However accuracy and finish quality can be improved by careful adjustements. Well documented on many sites as well as Youtube. On what evidence do you base that statement, that they are thrown together? As a Sieg minilathe owner I feel I must defend this particular product of theirs....I've had no issues at all with mine, nor with the minimill that I subsequently bought...As a time served engineering apprentice, I have the experience and lnowledge on how to use these machines, not someone who has bought on a whim to make a few bits for model aircraft..... If you buy a mini lathe from one of the reputable suppliers (Arceurotrade...no affiliation, just a satisfied customer....) their minilathe does not require any setup at all or any careful adjustments....Ketan the owner of Arc has a very close relationship with Sieg, so a purchase from him is likely to be of the highest quality...
  10. Geoff, Arceurotrade sell the Sieg SC3 mini lathe, I think they may have on offer atm....They advertise over on the model engineer forum. I have one, lots of tooling and extras, great little machine and has a brushless motor too. Be careful, some of the other minilathes have dc brushed motors and are prone to failing motors/speed controllers....
  11. I actually bought an artf from my lhs, it came with two same handed wings!
  12. STF, Apologies,( I get carried away at times..) the guys are right, if you use a ready made Arduino platform with in built usb support then no need for an external programner/jnterface... Its when you start programming Atmel micros from the ground up its starts getting complicated... Stick with Phil 's advice on learning how to blink a led, change a few things around or add more leds and see what happens is the way to go..Its all fun..
  13. Arduino programmers are based on USB to ttl UART. Typical chip to use would be an FTDI 232or something similar....An internet search will provide necessary schematics, although you will need the driver for which ever chip you use...
  14. I thought you might chip in Phil... (Chippie.....RCMF..)
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