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Allan Bennett

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  1. Thanks Outrunner. I rarely drill through thin sheet, but with all drilling I start with a 1mm bit and then work upwards Looking closely at stepped drills online, I see that they have very little, or no, twist in the cutting edges, which I'm sure must help prevent snagging and odd-shaped holes. Maybe I'll invest in one.
  2. Interesting, I'd never heard of a stepped drill bit until this post. Apart from avoiding the hassle of changing bits for different size holes, is there any other advantage over conventional single-size bits? A disadvantage would seem to me to be when the size you use most wears out you have to replace the whole bit, at a much greater cost than a single-size bit.
  3. As Shaun has said, full details are needed. Is it this one?
  4. I would be sorely tempted to use that cowl as a master to make a mould from. Add all the little bumps and other raised details using P38 or equivalent, cut or file the panel lines and other recessed details, then make a mould of it.
  5. Another happy user of genuine Deans Ultra connectors. If XT60 were are around (or I knew about them) I might have gone for them instead, but now it's too late with too many models and batteries which would need changing. Also XT60s are physically too big to fit in a couple of my battery bays.
  6. My experience is just like Max Z, above. Rolls can feed in without a holder, and the standard free software does everything I want, which often involves tracing an outline from an imported picture in one of the common formats (.jpg .bmp etc.) and editing it. I do use the cutting mat quite regularly as it allows me to use small offcuts of vinyl that are too small to feed in through the rollers. I find it also makes loading the media a little bit easier because of its rigidity.
  7. You can select a Logic state as the trigger for your timer, and then program the logic to change state when the throttle passes your desired percent. Never tried it myself, so can't give line-by-line programming.
  8. Stabilisation may well be able to keep the model straight and level but, unless it also controls the throttle, won't be able to compensate for any slowing down that the flaps cause.
  9. The only problem we've found in our club, with sheep and/or cows in one of our flying fields, is that the cows are very inquisitive. We always have to have someone guarding the pits area to avoid models being licked, nibbled, or trampled on.
  10. It's not manufacturers I've heard quoting short battery leads, but people with more knowledge (and test equipment!) of electronics than I have, in another forum. They make the point that long battery leads won't destroy your ESC immediately, but will degrade its capacitors over time, resulting in eventual failure. So models that are only flown once in a while, no matter how old they are, may never reach the point of ESC failure. But I also accept that modern ESCs often have more capacitors than older ones (you can add capacitors anyway, if you want), so will be more tolerant of long battery leads. Most single-engine electric planes have the ESC in the fuselage, so I don't think that it being a twin makes that much difference when it comes to ESC temperature. It's the fact that my Learjet, with similar power plant configuration to the A10, has its ESCs in the fuselage that made me suggest it for the A10, rather than trying to cram them in the nacelles. But, whatever works . . . . .
  11. I have two models which need arming plugs, and I have them attached to the models by a short length of nylon fishing line.
  12. That's interesting. I know that many modern ESCs have more capacitors on their battery leads to cope with the effects of long wires but, even then, it must be good practice to reduce the strain on them by keeping the battery leads as short as possible. What about the position of the fan in the nacelle? My recent experiences with ducted fans are that it's the intake configuration that has the greatest effect on thrust, and the most efficient seems to be when there's no intake duct at all, just a nice rounded lip at the front of the impellor.
  13. That's the view I take. If nothing's plugged into them, the drain is going to be minimal,
  14. Assuming you're in UK or Europe, the file you should need is the X8R_LBT one.
  15. I wonder if charging via a computer's USB lead can affect the computer if the charge current is high. To save the hassle of finding and plugging in a charger, or connecting my trannie to a computer, a while ago I bought a twin mains socket outlet with two built-in USB outlets for my workshop. So now my X9D+2019 plugs direct into that. My older X9D+ still needs a charger for its NiMh pack, of course.
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