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Colin Anderson

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Everything posted by Colin Anderson

  1. Thanks, Mike. Sorry for the late reply - notification went into my spam folder. I’ve got some flat 1/8” rubber from FF supplies. πŸ‘πŸ˜Š
  2. Thanks, Mike. That’s very kind of you. I checked out the link you gave and have now registered to it. Looks like a very interesting and useful forum. I’m sure I ought to be able to find the rubber now I have a better idea of what to seek. Probably I can get some from someone like free flight supplies; looks like they sell 16 foot lengths for very little money - do you think that’d be long enough for the little Invader? But failing that I might take you up on your very kind offer. πŸ‘πŸ˜Š Calm wind and clear skies! 😊
  3. Hmmm, an interesting idea, David. Thanks. πŸ‘πŸ˜Š
  4. Yeah, I was afraid of that, Brian; but it never hurts to ask. Cheers. πŸ‘πŸ˜Š
  5. Now that was illuminating, John. They seemed to go up pretty effortlessly and they were all FF. On just 1/8” flat rubber going by the captions - that ought to be readily available and I’m guessing would place less strain on a light, fragile model than fuel tubing. I’ve come across the pulley method many years ago and seen it used on full size (don’t know if it’s still used); never seen it being used for models though.
  6. Ah, thanks for that Shaun. I’m glad I asked then. Having only recently learned of the technique I’ve no idea.
  7. I’m looking for a Mercury Monarch kit and a Mercury Swan, if anyone out there has either that they’re willing to part with for a reasonable sum.
  8. Long shot, this: a have a couple of models that have sat too long on their tyres. As a result they have distorted. Is there a good way of getting them to β€œpuff” out and be usable again? I did try - on a plane I’d been given - placing the whole wheel in a boiling pan of water; that was a bad mistake! The tyre did begin to regain its shape, but then it split along a central seam!
  9. A little while back, as a matter of nostalgia, I built a KK Invader. Visiting various model shows I’ve searched for a way of getting it aloft. As a kid I’d run like hell and tow my glider up; but I was never very good at it and not much better at running - I’m still not good at running! Then I heard of bungee launching and this seems to me the perfect solution. I know people use surgical tubing and it can be acquired on the internet - certainly I can’t find it at any shows - but it seems rather expensive for such a small model, such as the Invader (and in any case I prefer to see what I’m buying - especially when I’ve little idea of what I actually need. Today I was advised to use 10 metres of 1/8 silicone fuel tubing attached to fishing line. Now I would never have imagined this was possible. Is silicone fuel tubing that stretchy? I don’t want to rip my model apart! Has anyone tried it? I’d like to make doubly sure before buying such.
  10. Thanks for that , Kevin. It’s appreciated. ?? Colin
  11. Does anyone have a complete Mercury Monarch control kit they would be willing to part with for a reasonable sum?
  12. What a coincidence! Recently I acquired and read a book about model Diesel engines (second edition, published in 1947). Imagine my surprise, while reading Shaun Garrity’s piece to note that it was about the very same engines I’d so recently been reading about!
  13. Long shot: Anyone got plans or kits of the Mercury Swan and Mercury Monarch they’d be willing to part with for a reasonable sum?
  14. Just bought this book. Quite smitten with the DH71. I've tracked down the plan to Sarik Hobbies and ordered one.
  15. It's going into a 48" Tiger Moth, Denis. A don't believe that they'll be much of a problem with ground clearance, although I've not checked this yet. As I'd bought both these engines secondhand I needed to make sure they both ran okay; thankfully, they do. I only had an 11 X 6 to test them , but I feel this was a little big for these engines (3.5 cc), so yes, they'll probably be happier on a 9 or an 8. I'd thought to use the 21 in the Moth, but as it's a car spec version (over large head and a pulley at the front end) I don't think it'll be practical - it'll be a tight fit within the cowl, the pulley doesn't allow sufficient thread for a prop nut to hold the propeller on and I haven't found a silencer for it yet. I think it'll be better and more practical to fit the 20 (it's only fractionally under 3.5 cc), as its smaller and lighter than the 21 and does have a silencer. Now I've cleaned it up it looks much better than when I aquired it.
  16. Happy to report that I fired up both Thunder Tigers (20 & 21) successfully this morning. They start easily and run fine. I noticed today that the 20 is also missing a screw (there's only one holding the throttle body in place, instead of the two that this engine should have); it doesn't appear to effect the running in anyway. Both engines ran a little slow to my ears, but that might have something to do with the 11 X 6 propeller (the only one I had to hand for testing) that I had fitted. What did surprise me was that the 21, without a silencer, wasn't any louder than the 20 with one! just need to figure out what the correct propeller size ought to be.
  17. I had a hunch that I this was the case, but wanted to be sure. Many thanks for that. 👍😊
  18. Hi there Dave, When I first started searching I thought it might be, but looking at the images, the peg that engages the throttle barrel looks way to long. I did contact them both by email and by phone and they really couldn't give me any information on the speciation soft this part and whether or not it would fit my engine - mine is a 21, but it's not a Pro. However, although these items are on their web site, they don't actually have them and have not requested any stock since 2013 and therefore believe them to be unavailable. This is why I aquired some M4 fine bolts and got an engineering firm to modify them for me. This solution should work fine; it locates the throttle barrel correctly and allows it to move properly throughout its range. I've now got to test the engine. Before fitting this engine to a plane, I'm going to have to reposition that throttle arm. I'm not exactly clear on how this is achieved on this throttle. The screw in the middle (first image) is to adjust the low speed mixture; around this is a brass collar with 3 notches in it and, on throttle barrel itself, what appears to be a grub screw with an Allen key head (second image). Which one of these actually allows the arm to be adjusted? Edited By Colin Anderson on 21/08/2018 23:13:14
  19. The thread of the throttle stop screw turned out to be M4 fine, the same as the needle valve. M4 fine bolts seem to be incredibly hard to find or get hold of in this country, but, thanks to a fellow modeller (Barry Lewis - thanks mate) some suitable bolts were sourced from Pro Bolts; at 12 mm length these were shorter than I would have liked and had domed heads, rather than cap heads, but they would do the job. Once I got the bolts I took them up to a machine shop I know in Maidenhead (8 miles from me) and got them to reduce the ends of two of the bolts to make locating pegs to engage in the throttle barrel - £8 for the bolts, £5 to have the ends reduced. I got them back today and fitted one into the throttle assembly, complete with a spring from a defunct pen. The throttle barrel is now secure and functions as it should. All that remains to do now is to fit the assembly to the engine and test it. Thank you to every one who contributed and especially Denis Watkins who sent me some bolts to try out if the kindness of his heart.
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