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Robert Parker

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Robert Parker last won the day on September 25 2022

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  1. Hi All, The charge rate was set at 0.7. Having finally checked over the batteries now that they have all completed the same cycle/discharging process there is only one battery has given me confidence to use in flight and with thanks to you Rotten Row for pointing out about the button, You tend to overlook these things especially when you have been away from the hobby for just over a year. I was indeed using the LiPo mode when recording the %ages. The battery I'm keeping in LiFe mode comes in at 98% whilst the others are below 50% Now, it's time to clear the building board and finish off a half built Ruhig Tiger 72 with IC motor. Regards Robert
  2. Hi Dick, I'm measuring with a battery capacity meter made by overlander Regards Robert
  3. Thanks once again for your replies. I have tried discharging/charging and although the batteries are showing around the 1100mAh mark the % is still 3% on the three I tried, and as has been quite rightly pointed out above what do you value most, the house/planes always come first. Thanks for all of your advice Regards Robert
  4. Looking good, hope the maiden goes well Regards Robert
  5. Thanks for the replies. I'll try out your suggestions tomorrow, wife is getting fed up of hearing the "Bleeps" Regards Robert
  6. Hi All, I have 5 "ZIPPY" LiFe RX batteries which do not want to charge, 2 of which have puffed up Due to life and events outside my control I was unable to build or fly at all last year and hopefully I will manage to get some flying done this year. I last put all of my batteries into storage mode last March, with the intension of repeating in September but this did not happen. I'm now going through all of my batteries and have managed to ressurect all but two of my NiMh batteries, LiPo's are good but all 5 of my LiFe RX batteries will not charge/ or increase their, their voltage is as follows:- Batt 1 6.556v c1 3.2v c2 3.2 puffed 2% Batt2 6.764v c1 3.4v c2 3.3v good 3% Batt3 6.606v c1 3.2v c2 3.3v lightly puffed 2% Batt4 6.714v c1 3.3v c2 3.3v good 3% Batt5 6.771v c1 3.3v c2 3.4 good 3% I have 3 good quality chargers and tried the batteries on all 3 chargers Any ideas are please, I just don't want to loose a plane for the sake of a faulty battery or just simply dispose of these at the local recycling centre and buy new. Regards Robert
  7. Hi J D 8, I too can vouch for the SC91, mine has been in my Tiger Moth for years. Mounted in inverted I had a few problems at first few flight always dead stick. Once I fitted an on board glow never any issues, starts easily even after a year or two without being run. Regards Robert
  8. Hi Chris, I did not waterproof the inside because mine will be flown of grass, when the time comes. Regarding the outside this is what i used... "I gave the hull a coat of sanding sealer, the dope based type not the water based type, and sanded it with wet and dry. So, with no time like the present the glass cloth was cut and I applied a coat of Poly C through the glass cloth and then two more coats after it had dried. Poly C is great stuff applied in thin coats, however, back to my earlier comment about the sanding sealer, on a previous model I used water based sanding sealer and what I found was that the Poly C, also water based softened the sanding sealer/balsa to the point that several areas had to be cut out as the balsa had warped very badly. I don't think it would have been an issue here with the hull but better safe than sorry, nothing worse than repairing a model whilst still building it."...... See January 9th 2022 posting for pictures The rest of the fuselage was covered with encapsulating film. i would love to see some photos of your Sunderland, at 72" mine is a large model but 94" wow. Hope this is of some help. Regards Robert
  9. Hi All, I bought one of these kits earlier this year and started the building yesterday, I intend fitting an SC 91FS up front. I do accept that this kit has been designed for electric use and that these are my modifications to convert to ic. Having read through the full blog and noted that there has been mention of moving/remaking F1 rearwards and then the cowl not fitting etc, got to get me thinking and sketching on the drawing and thinking a bit more and coming up with my solution. I decided to do this first before starting the build. SC 91 and mount with the prop driver just proud of the cowl line My idea, leave F1 in place, make a new F1a with spacers/packers to pull back the prop driver to the required position F1 with motor mount shown showing the amount of ply to remove My new F1a as I will call it with 16mm x 12mm beach engine bearers shaped to match the pulled in sides of the fuselage with the original F1 cut to allow it to pass over the engine mount. The washers give the correct side thrust. F1 placed over the mount with a cut out required for the carb later on. I opted to go for a side winder installation Glued together as one piece. I was a little concerned about the additional weight I was adding with my F1a and bearers but when I added this along with the engine weight then looked up all of the weights of the 6s battery, motor, esc etc my worries were unfounded and to be honest a big weight saving has been achieved a total of 1.179kgs!!! I think that I'm going to have to add a lot of ballast to get the CoG right, the rear end has already been designed light and there is little weight saving to be done at this end. What did you do Masher to get your Satio in place That's all for now Regards Robert
  10. Hi All, Just finished a Mr Vintage kit which I bought on a well known auction site. 72" wingspan, powered by an OS 70 fourstroke, covered in covering from 4 max and all up weight in 3.28 kg or 7 1/4 lbs Waiting to maiden, just need time and weather Regards Robert
  11. Hi All, Mr Vintage now awaits his maiden flight, although he did give me a fair surprise when I tried to balance in the week to find out the best place as where to place the servo tray and battery. These positions are not shown on the plan, so I took the assumption that the battery went next/close to the tank position and tacked the servo tray in place fairly forward, the aircraft was so nose heavy that I did not even let go on the balancer. Attempt two, servo tray as rearward as it would go, still very nose heavy, it had hardly made a difference, so I placed some lead strips(60g strips) on the tail and we were getting somewhere. Attempt three, battery taped to fuselage behind servos, still not right, two batteries plus some lead was getting close to a slight nose down attitude I was starting to think have I put too big an engine in, but no it is a 70 4stroke on the plans, anyway it got to balance correctly to fly. So the battery pack fitted as far back as it can along with the servo tray. 2 60g strips of lead instead of two battery packs. Servo tray fitted and closed loops made up along with the throttle snake and some slit plastic tubing made the combing around the cockpit cut out. coming looks good plus a pilot to finish it off All throws correct and then final balancing both ways I had to add some lead to the left wing I had to add a further 40g of lead to the tail too All up weight 3.28kg or 7 1/4lbs So there we have it, just waiting for the time and weather. I'll keep you all informed of how well she flies. That's all for now Regards Robert
  12. Hi All, On the home run now, all of the covering is done and everything is coming together nicely. Tail feathers glued in position, I added some 1/4 sheet between the longerons for a great glue contact A little on the pricey side but I think they add a lot to the model. The wheel kit, pre-centered hubs and packets of long and short spokes and adhesive plus the tyres the completed wheels and ready for the tyres I painted the rims and hubs with chrome paint The wheel in place, I had to extend the axles by soldering some brass tube on, just need to drill for the split pins and some washers, engine side mounted gives an un-obstructive view for the pilot Tank and battery fitted Litho plate gussets cut and glued in place. Next, servo installation, closed loops, throttle linkage and balancing. I was thinking I could be carrying out the maiden next weekend, however, I have been informed by SWMBO that the bedrooms, hall stairs and landing need decorating before xmas, read that as by end of November, so I think my flying will be curtailed quite a bit for the next few weeks, without any overtime work may throw at me, only 5 years, 2 months and 20 days to retirement, not that I'm counting. That's all for now Regards Robert
  13. Hi All, Here are a couple of photos taken at our club field taken at the same time as the above previous ones, the Sunderland and my own design Stirling have now been published in this months RCM&E I did toy with making a tractor too Yet to be maidened, but hope to, when work and home life allow. That's all for now Regards Robert
  14. Hi All, Progress has been steady since I last posted and I have started covering. That's the fuselage covered and the wing bolts self tapped into the blocks, I had not tried this method before but seems to be a good bite. Tank floor glued in position and fire wall drilled for pipes and throttle cable Again another first for me with the wings, this time with the covering. As the roll of covering was only just wide enough to the top and the bottom with virtually no overlap, I covered each wing panel in one, that is the top and bottom in one single piece per side with just enough to cover the trailing edge then add the ailerons and centre top section cutting away the film to allow the glue to the wing. Gluing the top section in place. Despite thinking about other methods of wing fixing I went for as per manufacturers instructions and bolted the front of the top section in place. Rudder and fin covered and placed in the stabiliser for photo. The covering used was from 4 max and it is the first time I used this covering material and it will not be the last time, it is easy to apply and shrinks very well, I have used over 4m of the roll (5m) so it makes it very economical too, cheaper than some 2m rolls. Next, solder the u/c legs together then dry fit the stabiliser to ensure everything aligns and mark the glue area then cover and finish off the rest of the covering. That's all for now Regards Robert
  15. Hi All, The wings are almost done, they did not take long at all, two evenings per panel A real joy to put together everything fitted. I only had to cut the diagonals and reduce the webs as they were from stock sheet material I had to guess the dihedral at 28mm under each tip rib Next, centre sheeting then flip over and repeat. trial fit to fuselage That's all for now Regards Robert
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