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Scruffmeister

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  1. Thanks @Philip Lewis 3. Out of interest, do you take the approach of wicking the glue just as you would with CA, or do you coat the hinge itself before inserting into the slot? I'm finding that Super 'Phatic doesn't give a huge amount of time to reposition with balsa/flock so juts perfecting my technique!
  2. I am trying to build up the courage to use Super 'Phatic glue to secure the "CA" hinges in my current build (a 60" electric 3D/aerobat). The testing I have done with scrap wood and hinges has been successful and the joint seems very strong. The wicking properties are evident and can be seen in the top half of the hinge in the attached photo. However, I am unsure of the long term properties of the joint when subjected to constant flexing in this environment. If you have been using Super 'Phatic (or indeed any aliphatic) glue for "CA" hinges, please could you let me know your experiences, failures and longevity? Thank you!
  3. Thanks both, the paint appears to have taken nicely and isn't flaking. Indeed it seems fairly tough as much as I dared scratch it with a fingernail. I cleaned the surfaces with methylated-spirits before painting. Just want to give it the best chance of a long life with some kind of water-based finish/varnish. Edited By Scruffmeister on 11/04/2020 20:44:29
  4. Hi All, I've just painted a Dreamflight Weasel slope-soarer using Liquitex acrylic spray paint. I'm pleased with the result but think it is going to need sealing to try to stop the paint flaking and some water-resistance for when it lands in wet grass. Can anyone recommend something that can be applied from a spray can please? Extra points for a link to an online shop as I will need to mail order due to isolation! Thanks
  5. Hi All, I recently obtained a Seagull Challenger ARTF. Having just got it out the box it appears to have a very odd characteristic that suggests it has been incorrectly built... The port side of the model seems to have been built from 3.5mm balsa, whereas the starboard side is 5mm. I've attached some photos to show what I mean. Can anyone confirm if their Seagull Challenger ARTF exhibits this same characteristic please? Attached some photos. Many thanks!
  6. Just want to check this one, where a plan specifies dihedral, you would presumably measure this from the chord line if not specified? Below is the Chilli Wind plan I am working from, it does say "under" each wingtip so perhaps the intention is to put a 1" block under each tip when joining at the point shown on plan? I need to commit to an approach before I cut foam cores!   Edited By Scruffmeister on 17/11/2019 21:16:04
  7. I'm going over the plans for the Curare 60 and Dirty Birdy with a view to putting one or the other in the build queue at some point. At this point I'm trying to identify suitable retracts and electric motor setup that I can redraw into my plans. I would be interested to hear what retracts and electric motor/prop/battery combos have worked well for models of this class/size for you? Thanks!
  8. Flaps is a nice idea, I definitely plan to cut the ailerons out as it's easy enough to do with the full skin I am planning... can always make a couple of different wings for it!
  9. Thanks Nigel, good info. Might give that a try as it simplifies the wing design!
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