Huggy

Thanks chaps - Shauni's info is just what I needed ( I threw out the box too it seems...) and as I was just about to finish the fuselage, immediately put to the test! I was being a tad impatient, not waiting for the temp. to come down again. Now, the wing..... Oh, and I'm doing the tail in one of the lighter coverings (Solite I believe) to save a bit of weight that end, and try to avoid warps. Hoping temperatures are the same, test first I think......

Hi all - Having not used my Prolux Digital covering iron for some time I've lost the instruction sheet somewhere, and although I generally dread doing covering, I have tackled an old Bugaboo I converted to single channel electric a while back, and have had some pretty good results (each panel gets a little better - hooray!) but I have a query I hope a more regular user can help with. When I select the temperatures, I can't quite get the hang of setting them; the temperature goes up, and past the point I want it at, and only with much random pressing of the tiny little buttons and blowing on the iron can I get it to settle where I want it (in this case 100 deg for tacking Solarfilm, and 120 for shrinking). Eventually it stays put. Am I missing something? Searching for the elusive instructions is getting tedious! Thanks.

Posted by Barryorbik on 06/01/2016 22:38:43: I cannot find any confirmation but believe that Bosch bought out Dremel a few years ago and it appears the quality changed. I still have a black cased twenty+ year old Dremel which has done lots of use and that has never had anything other than a couple of sets of brushes but my second one (a 3000 purchased about two years ago) had a switch failure at less than 3 months old and was replaced under guarantee and I had to replace the switch assembly again last year. Seems nothing lasts these days !! Barry You're right Barry, the replacement switch (which came very quickly and was only about £11 inc,postage ) came in a Bosch box. Easy job once I got the thing apart, thanks to the tips received here!

Wow thanks gents! I could find nothing about the sticker thing on ANY forum thread via Google or Yahoo, and even a guy I asked at the firm that sells spares up in Derby failed to mention them! He did remind me not to pull the two halves apart too quickly though, so that various springs and things disappear in different directions. Many thanks guys, I'm now on it. Thanks for the additional info too, most useful. We shall become a two Dremel family!

This is a bit random for the forum but... In the appalling winter we're having, both myself and Mrs. H have been giving the old Dremel 3000 a bashing, and the speed control switch failed - a common occurrence I believe - sticking in top speed. We have bought another, but I want to repair the old one as we are both busy, and while I can get a switch easily enough, damned if I can get the thing apart! All screws removed, brushes out... the two halves will not come apart has anyone here had any cause to dismantle one? It's the 3000 model, other models look straightforward enough.

Having had a bit of a model cull, and looking for a good high-wing foamie for our rather bumpy flying field, I'd had my eye on the HZ Sport Cub reviewed by Graham Ashby recently, and bumping into the man himself at Headcorn he confirmed it is indeed a good 'un for general flying. Then I entered the Multiplex tent - and their new Pilatus PC6 caught my attention and confused the issue! Not to everyone's taste I know, but I love the ugly-bug looks, it has big wheels, and STLO capability, and the trad stick n tissue one I built from a Dumas kit flies a treat so..... Has anyone flown one yet? Bit more expensive than the Cub, but very tempted...

Thanks for all the input everyone; it helped. Eventually settled for the Dremel 3000 kit which includes the flexible shaft, and added the workstation that Dylan mentioned, plus a kit of extra tools - that should keep her busy! And I'm sure I'll be able to "have a borrow" now and then...

Lovely diverse collection it is too! And there was me thinking my Kia Rio was a tad too small after the dear old Mondeo.....

Wow thanks chaps! Lots to ponder there. She does find the power cable on the current cheapo one is a bit of a nuisance, but the flexi-shaft idea is worth considering. How is the main body of the tool retained in that case, do they supply a clamp in the kit? Having the variable speed might be something that would offset the non-cordless thing, in which case I'd probably opt for the Dremel 8200 - it's a significant birthday prez, so hang the expense!

Yeah looked at that Andy, but it seems a bit bulky and heavier than the "hobby" sized ones, probably it's intended more for general DIY. Mrs H has a llittle trouble with arthritis in her hand, so we're looking at the smaller / lighter models.

I'm looking for a new cordless rotary tool - actually for my wife, not me believe it or not! (though I might get a chance for a borrow every now and then....gosh I hadn't thought of that...) and came up with what looked ideal - the Dremel Stylus - only to find it has been discontinued. That had LiOn batteries, all the others still rely on old faithful Nicads. I've come down to three choices now, the Dremel 7700 which is only two speed and looks a bit chunky for when my good lady is doing her jewellry polishing, engraving etc, but is probably good quality, the Clarke Tools one that has variable speeds and a whole lot of kit, but no info about size etc, and the RC09 9.6v Cordless Rotary from Rotacraft which seems a good compromise but again, can't tell how big it is.. Anyone own any of these that can clue me in on quality / usefullness? She presently uses the Rotacraft one I got as a subscription gift from RCME a couple of years ago, and likes it OK apart from being corded and only having one speed.

I can get 10-12 minutes on 3300mah LiPos, could probably get more. I use throttle sparingly mind, if you want flat out speed, it would probably be less. Good luck with it, it's a good plane.

Hi Redex - I used Hitec HS81 servos, as I couldn't get 225s, they are slightly smaller than the originals but with the little ply plates that David mentions, they have worked just fine. It's a nice flyer, very stable, and the 25 motor is plenty. Takeoffs and landings are excellent (except when the odd bit of pilot error creeps in!) and the U/C is tough and will handle a bit of rough ground, though not the swamp we currently have at our field! The HS81s were £7.50 each at the time from Steve Webb's Servo Shop. Very good first low winger I'd say.

A bit hefty that one I would have thought, though I'm not sure the listed weight of 249g is right! Might consider a small inrunner though, food for thought, but hoping someone can tell me something that they've actually used successfully. Thanks

Has anyone built the Pilatus Turbo Porter , or any of the other small planes from the Dumas laser kit range come to that? I am about to start on a build (nice Xmas present from wife) It's 40" span and should work out very light, but there's no guide weight anywhere in the manual / plans, and it was designed with the old brushed stick motors in mind. Most outrunners are either a bit too powerful, or the wrong shape & size for the moulded front end - I'm thinking about 60-70 watts would be plenty but wondered if anyone had other ideas..

Anyone who would seriously recommend the "pocket money" non-flying Keil Kraft scale rubber models of our youth as a good introduction to the hobby, compared to something like a Multiplex Cub or Parkzone Champ is only deluding themselves. The virtual guarantee of a successful flying model available through todays RTFs and ARTFs gives a much more satisfactory introduction to model flight than spending many hours sticking together some poor, warped, overweight impression of a Spitfire that has as much chance of flying as Thomas The Tank Engine on a bad day.... Edited By leccyflyer on 06/06/2012 13:16:43 Total agreement there, mate, I remember trying to build one or two of those KK jobs when I was a kid, and needless to say picked something hopelessly difficult to start with - No chance! Only many years later with a bit more patience and a bit more cash did I managed to acquire the skills necessary for small stick & tissue builds, when trying to encourage a son (who turned out to be a great model maker) to get into the hobby. When finally converting to r/c rather late in life, the HZ Super Cub was a marvellous acquisition, and although my first totally scratch built r/c plane - a low-wing Jinty from an old Aeromodeller plans collection converted to three channel and electric motor - has turned out a bit of a shed, I'll be pressing on with more kit & plan builds (now the editor confirms CNC cut ribs are coming up for next winter's project! )

Only just caught up with this, and it does look as though Alex W has attracted praise, agreement and flak in equal measure! I actually enjoyed his 10 year look back, as something a bit different, and having a columnist with a bit of character is always good in any magazine - and many ego-free people are not very interesting I've found. Sure, I don't always agree with your tame cross-border wanderer, and his rearguard snipes at electric power are a bit tedious and King Canute-ish perhaps, but what's the point of having a writer who doesn't back off from speaking his mind, and who can write in a colourful way, if not to get peoples attention and bring on some lively debate? Carry on, sir! Also, as something different the cross-channel Spit flight was very readable, and I'd just as soon have some of that rather than another review that every other modelling mag may well duplicate. One question to Management - is the Sandow likely to have a wood pack in due course? I fancy that, but will happily avoid cutting out ribs etc if I can get away with it, even if it is a fairly simple design. Oh, and I have much appreciated ARTF models (all el*ctric I fear, Alex!) as a way of building up my R/C squadron, and very nice some of them are too, but now it's time to back off the "acquisitions" and do more building. Keep 'em coming.

Cheers Ken; he doesn't seem to have anything that small at present, but worth keeping for future, ta

Learned to fly on mine in a four football field area, but it depends what you overfly at the edges! Three would probably be OK if you take it easy, the HZ Cub handles and turns well, great little plane.

Does anyone know where I could get a 120mah 2S Lipo similar to those sold for Techone micro models? I recently got a Turnigy slow-fly biplane that uses this size, and has the red JST connector, but the pukka Techone ones are either silly money or not in stock (or both) at official dealers. I got a NanoTech Lipo the same slim size and shape off EBay but that has the three-wire connector for the E-Flite micros, so no good unless anyone knows how to modify it. Could carve up the plane to make something fatter, like the ones Micron do, fit I suppose, but there's not a lot of it!

Having been strictly a free- flight guy for many years, you would think I'd consider foam a "no no". But, erm, No. I still make the odd indoor stick n tissue flyer, and am near to completing an R/C version of an old design from one of the Nexus Special Edition collection books, called Jinty, which is all-balsa. But, I am quite a slow builder, so when I finally delved into R/C a couple of years ago, quick and easy way was to go for ARTF foamies, and my currently 11 strong outdoor squadron stands at just over 50% foam. I guess my E-Flite Advance 25E is 50/50 in itself, with a foam core wing! I enjoy sticking wood together, but with my pilots hat on, I really don't mind what they are made of, as long as they fly, and are fun. I'm right with Romeo Whisky on this one, foamies are better when it's wet (which our flying field is for 50% of the year!) One simple little foamie in the roster I fly over and over in all sorts of weather, wet or dry, calm or breezy, it sometimes crashes, it bounces, and lives to fly again. There's room for all sorts of materials I think, and lots of new stuff to try. I haven't regretted going all-electric for my RC exploits either, still considered beyond the pale by some diehards I believe!

Had some glorious calm evenings recently darn sarf, one memorable outing flying my mates ultra-light trad stick and tissue version of the Zaunkoenig 1930s motor glider, just wafting about in still air - magic! Then it got all windy again, and is staying that way at the mo, but did tackle 15mph plus with my Sky Surfer, which was good fun, and a few thermals about too. Starting to like the lekky gliding thing a lot, so will have to finally assemble the Easyglider I've had hanging about for a long while I think, before winter comes back....

Having the extra challenge of leaving the ground as well as turning corners will keep you busy enough for a bit, so something that's not too fast, and is simple to repair if needs be is good. The Hobbyzone SuperCub is hard to beat and is compatible with Spektrum 2.4 rc transmitters (you can buy it complete with their own TX of coourse) and is so nearly ready to fly it's unreal. very stable, pretty tough, only thing is a bit light if you have a really windy field to fly from. If you are wanting to stick to ic motors there are lots of standard trainers to choose from, and some are available as electric versions - I flew free flight with small diesels for years, but now reckon electric is the way to go, it's not as though you already have suitable engine from a car I imagine. Don't get too carried away by the thought of all those big shiny aeroplanes at the shows - loads of money and experience required, so best work towards it from the ground up - pardon the pun

Cheers David

Just acquired an E-Flite Advance 25e kit (following glowing RCME review!) and trying to sort out suitable servos, as the JR MN48 servos suggested in the build instructions don't appear to be easily available in the UK. Any suggestions as to suitable (and not horrendously expensive) substitutes? MN48s appear to be 33mm x 14.7 in plan form, 3.5kg/cm torque. Anyone building one of these be good to hear from you.