stu knowles

Just want to highlight that this scam is still happening. I put up a wanted ad, got a PM suggesting contact this e-mail, he has one for sale. i did so and had a very plausible exchange with 'Dave Cotten' who eventually asked for a payment into his wife Paypal account [email protected] When I looked into the PM I realised it was a person with no forum history and on checking further saw John's banner about being aware of scammers. Lo and behold, exactly the same scenario. If you're reading this 'Dave' Hope that you get your just deserts one day

Hi All I’m in need of the little LCD screen used on the Multiplex Royal Evo range of transmitters. Either just the screen or a redundant TX which has a working screen. Condition of the rest of the TX immaterial. Can be a 35 meg TX or an EVO 9 or 12 it doesn’t matter. Please get in touch if you have anything which may help. Thanks Stu Knowles

Very clever! Wish that I hd your skills

Me too, Growing up in the late 50's and 60's all the comics had war stories, Matt Braddock VC, 'Clicky Ba' and a regular dose of Commando comic books. Stir in Airfix and Roy Cross's wonderful artwork and hear we are 60 years on still building warbirds and with no wish to get it out of my system yet. It was a wonderful education.

I couldn't turn up at the field with that model but each to their own 🙂 Not wishing to be a prophet of doom, with the wheels that far forward I think that its likely to be hard to keep straight on Take Off. Hope that it goes well,

Personally, I think that we are a long was from seeing the end of Glow engines. I do have a couple of foamy 3 cell lipo models but the majority are larger petrol powered. Models between 48" and 80" are still glow powered as are floatplanes. I have no desire to move to larger electric power, I enjoy operating engines and getting the best out of them. I rarely suffer from unexpected engine stoppages. Perhaps oddly, I have never taken to four stroke glow motors, don't particularly like the sound although the absence of a silencer does make them attractive in scale models.

Thanks Mike and Philip. I'll have a play regards stu k

I need a bit of help with a OTX Mixer. I have set up a twin engine (I.C.) mixer, Each engine has a separate channel. Using a three position switch I have 1. No Mix 2. Throttles mixed with rudder. Full rudder adds 5% to one engine and subtracts 5% to the other. 3. As 2 but 10% added / subtracted. This was added to the model because it has a tendency to swing to the left on take off but is also good for taxiing. The problem is when taxiing the engine which has the throttle reduced often moves into the zone where the engine stops. If I add a few clicks of throttle first all is well but in the heat of the moment this can be forgotten resulting in a stoppage. Is there a setting in OTX where if switch position 2 or 3 is in use it wont drop the throttle channels below a preset number or even the number used in the throttle trim setting?? Thanks Stu K

I've never found a source of 3mm studding with a left hand thread. I did find some welding wire in just the right diameter to take a LH 3mm die. I have also centre drilled some 6mm alloy bar and tapped 3mm Left and Right into opposite ends. It works but 3mm taps are very brittle. Carbon arrow shafts are useful, not sure that I've seen an alloy arrowshaft.

That looks fantastic! I too had a dabble with Corrox year ago. Made a horrible looking but very robust trainer. It flew fine but I couldn't live with the appearance and wrote off Correx as a building material. Next stop will be the beginning of this thread to learn how you have done it. Any thoughts on putting the STL files of somewhere like Thingiverse? The Tip Tanks look very handy 😉

Gorilla PVA as I recall is very thick consistency compared to many PVAs. I use PVA from a 5 litre bottle from the Builders Merchant which is really used to size walls and plaster. I imagine that cheap 'Pound Shop' PVA will be better for this purpose than best quality wood glue. Chris Golds was probably the pioneer of BP/PVA covering. If you read up on his methods he pastes the brown paper and the wood surface. Lays on the BP and does all the trimming (make sure that both sides of the wing/control surface or whatever are done together or shinkage will cause a warp) and then he pastes both sides again and hangs it up so that both sides can dry evenly. Since Ron did his video I have tried his method and its good too, a lot less prone to mess. I think that the bottom line is that BP and PVA covering can be applied using slightly differing methods to get the same result. From my experience the key points are to lets the BP 'ease' for few minutes after pasting but before applying to the model and always do both sides together. The PVA can be used quite liberally and doesn't cause significant weight gain. If you are getting bubbles use more paste and let it stand a couple of minute to relax before applying to the wood. If you don't believe that the paper shrinks as it dries just apply it to a single side of a 1/4 balsa tailplane and see how much of a bananna has arrived in the morning. If the PVA has been applied liberally a hot iron will stick down bubbles and loose ends. The paper is likely to bubble soon after being applied but before it has dried. If this happens give it a little longer to ease before applying to the model but in any event, DON'T PANIC. Leave it to dry. Most bubbles will shrink away as it dries and a light iron will deal with any remaining. Chris Golds also applies two or three coats of the PVA paste all over after the first application with sanding in between to prep the model for paint. If you have a persistent bubble, tear, not cut it open, apply paste and brush it back down. Torn edges disappear more easily than cut edges. I have covered several models with BP. Its cheap, light and non critical in its application. With practice I don't exit the covering session quite so tarred and feathered with off cuts of brown paper as I did in the beginning. Its a perfect method for any all sheet airframe like the 190 or Tempest subject of this thread.

Seems like a good and simple way to start with a single panel and cut it to finish up with a dihedral break at mid span. Would it be more certain of good alignment if the dihedral brace slots were cut in before the single wing panel was cut in half? Is the order book still open for the Tempest?? I've been impressed by the Wulf and this one is shaping up so well. It needs one to be built with a good glow engine!

Hello Ken, As I remember its around 38lbs and is powered by a Zenoah 80cc twin. The wings come off as a pair so it assembles with four 6mm bolts and four 3mm nuts and bolts so its quite a quick and easy rig. Trouble is that it takes up an enormous amount of space. I have to transport the fus in a trailer and the wings are carried in the car - a large estate. It uses the basic four channels plus a switchable landing light, a Royal Navy flag which raises and lowers out of the rear cockpit as used in the RN Heritage Flight and the middle crewman raises his arm in a 'Thumbs Up' on a low and slow fly past or when taxi ing. Since the photos I have added a non droppable torpedo and a 3D printed dumy engine which sets it off a treat . It would be really nice with something like a 150cc radial on board but thats unlikely on my watch. I don't fly at shows which would be its natural environment and physically lifting it into and out of storage is becoming a problem due to advancing years. I'd like to fly it again when the weather improves but its likely to be moved on this year

Believe it or not I think that this 120" version is basically a scale up of the same plan, Not built by me, it came a a bit of a wreckto be rebuilt. Beautiful steady flier, it perambulates around the sky in a stately manner as befits the real thing

It's a 'Thing' available in 1metre and 1.5m wingspan and can be flown on the slope or under power NJR Models? This a 1.5m version with OS 32