Keith Berriman

Erfog May I suggest you try My Hermes at that weight it looks a reasonable price but you will have to check the +2 Mt bit. The tracking of parcels is excellent and drop of points at many locations Edited By RC Plane Flyer on 11/12/2014 17:00:22

I have used Talcum Powder to extract oil from wood be patient and do a couple of times using vacuum cleaner to remove as much as you can and Raw Cement to extract engine oil from paving slabs and concrete drives

Trebor how about some spacers under a servo fixing area and then a small z bend in a push rod to clear the other servo linkage. I suggest this as I can see the outer snakes limit what you can do unless you can free the throttle one and let it ride up so then no z bend required

I was in your situation two weeks ago, searching around the internet I found some shops were selling the Orange ones for just under the £100 mark just £10 over the standard Red one. I have notice that in my latest model there has been some improvements in the frame work and  some extra wood and fixings in the needed areas. I wish they would not have the same pattern of stripes on top and bottom of wings Edited By RC Plane Flyer on 28/11/2014 18:38:56

On most car dashboards on the Fuel Gauge there is usually a small arrow pointing to the Fuel Cap Area ?? Apologies for not reading the 18 pages to see if this has been mentioned

Dependent on your wallet PA Models looks nice Kantana MX maybe one of the shops on the RH side of screen sell them

Hello David Last December I sent to my local council asking for permission to fly in a large playing field, small electric models ( Foamies with less than 100 watt ) with a spotter person with me only during school times. No evenings No weekends. It took them over a week to respond with No Thanks they only allow flying in one park area in there domain which is the opposite side of the city for me. Looking at there fees and fuel cost I spend more time at my local club

Hello Near Enough -- Have you thought of the Halogen heaters various KWatt available and you can set them to rotate a little and you can set this to point at you whilst working

Hi Douglas I have sent you a PM message about the above if you log in you should see it

Hi Fly Boy 3 I reduced the solid balsa front end by 2" then Araldite a good 3mm ply former on the front to take 4 screws for the motor cross plate ( I use araldite 24 hour for motor plates bulk heads etc. ) I was a little eager as I should have used a Prop Saver with the original prop to retain the power needed NB Cutting my Balsa back left me 1/2" of solid Balsa on the front of the Fuselage

Mission Abandoned. Motor moved to front no problem mounting on the balsa nose, battery moved back and good C Of G. Problem came with propping, original set up 8 x 4 at rear gave 200 watts so went for 8 x 4 folder at front but only got just over 110 watts, went for a 9 x 5 folder and got 180 watts go for it. The pull was good went for a nose up launch with a gentle push all went well then it lost lift and dived in. Well at least I have the Motor, ESC etc. for another model and can take it of sale in various web pages. Thanks for all the tips

I will pluck up courage soon for an underarm launch. I currently have a Pinto which is underarm launch at 3/4 power but I am unable to get the same performance and feel for my Pushycat. The powertrain is as per forum but do I go for a level push or a slight nose up ? The video shows some confidence but I assume that is not a Maiden as Mr NE..1 has built others, what happens to the prop on landing ?? how many brake ???

Build Photos in Album do not know how to transfer !

Has anybody had any thoughts of making a Pushycat with the motor at the front with a folding prop ?? Or an alternative adding some form of undercarriage ??

Not sure of the system and if straight rods but how about using a fibre glass rods super glued into clevis

Hello David I did have in my original post that I had read the original thread but somehow I must have deleted this when modifying the text about the wing !!

Whilst tidying the hanger out recently I came across a RCM&E 2007 Mag with a free plan of the above. When I looked at the various parts in the Electric box and the Balsa box it was, this has to be a must do, obviously it will be with Lipos and Brushless. I must admit a cheat as I have a spare wing from a Flair Cherub that matches the plan exactly. I will take photos as I go along and upload when finished Edited By RC Plane Flyer on 08/09/2014 20:29:14

You will be very surprised how much the watts go up nearly 75% also need to double check the ESC as some are only set to 2 or 3 S

Hi There To make life simple cover the elevators individually it will be easier

Hi Kris S do have the open area to be able to cross the lines ?? so that the right servo lines goes to the left rudder arm and visa versa I use this method and find I have a closer control on the rudder

I fly mine on Irvine 5% with no problems on a 11 x 6 have tried a 11.5 x 6 and it struggles

I have one of these and can only get a 1300 3S cell in, I do not know how they get a 2200 in I have had to modify the canopy to fit on stand offs also. I have a 28mm brushless up front with a 10 x 6 on and it fly's very fast, I have not mastered how to get it round corners as it wants to fall out of the sky and troublesome to get it to fly straight and level again. I do not want to dissuade any potential buyers it maybe just be me ??

Hello Try Modelfixings and add those other items you think you should have in the workshop

Hello Forum Can anyone guide me in what Power Output you have used for the above please. Having read various threads and a review from some time ago it mentions nearly 350 Watts which seems excessive on a 2.2 lb model. There is room, just for a 35mm can upfront and would help with less lead being required to get the obligatory 60 mm c of g ,

I had a similar problem recently on a new battery pack, all range checks done etc travelled out to far side of landing strip for last check and wow was I lucky the plane went full power and traversed the pitch at low level and took its undercarriage of and killed the engine. Back in the hanger various testing done and I found 1 of the 4 cells had given up. On No load all was fine when switched on the cell went down in 30 secs