Ausferret
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Everything posted by Ausferret
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I am lucky enough to have a "hobby room" for the clean work which is airconditioned (gets hot here in Aus). The other is a workshop in the garage, not airconditioned unfortunately but OK for the messy work As per the original post neither has been "prepared" for the photos.
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Posted by Gurth Scriven 2 on 14/02/2015 09:11:33: You've got the idea - Mayo-Hagar are what you need, 7" is the size, have a look at Vet Direct too, their prices are more reasonable. The block end dressing forceps on this site are the job, and cheap as chips. Nice people to deal with too. ( Both instruments are brilliant, for example, putting servo mounting screws into place in a really deep fuselage where you can't get your fingers, let alone your hand! ) I just magnetise the screwdriver to place servo screws etc ........
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Posted by Fatscoleymo on 24/12/2014 11:23:04: This is what I use: Get a banana box from Morrisons (or your supermarket of choice) notch the sides with a stanley knive and stick a bit of pipe lagging on. Costs next to nowt, done in a few minutes. Takes a fuz and the other way on wings. It's very stable. I use it in the workshop, in the car to carry a fuz, at the field to help in assembly. When it's past it, knock up anew one. Steve Man after my own heart, use something that is cheap, easy to make, effective and easily replaced when damaged (like my models )
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I use a heat gun - not the aero-modellers type for covering but a solder reflow one. This comes with various size outlets and the temperature is adjustable (accurately!) up to 450C. Not too sure how it would go on the largest of wire gauges though.
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Posted by Phil Green on 03/12/2013 00:41:46: I noticed as they craned the Glasgow heli out, the remains of the rotors were visibly at positive pitch, so unless they moved on impact, does this suggest it wasnt in autorotation??? Edited By Phil Green on 03/12/2013 00:47:51 I should have thought at the end of an autorotation the main rotors should be in positive pitch (maximum probably).
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List of equations for electric flying
Ausferret replied to Andrew Russell 2's topic in All Things Model Flying
Listen to episode 207 at allthingsthatfly.com very informative! -
Personally I don't even really notice if there are more of one power type or the other being discussed. I always enjoy the magazine for what it is, information on my hobby of choice. I fly glow and electric in both my fixed wing and helis. I have got to say it is easier to go for a quick flight with electric than glow - plane, transmitter and batteries against plane, transmitter, fuel, starter, glow stick, cloths, cleaning fluid and flight box.......
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Probably better to have asked which not to buy, as few people own a large number of different makes/models to offer an informed opinion of comparison. Usually if you own one and it performs OK it is easy to think you have the bees knees. However if you have had a bad experience your opinion is valuable, particularly of service/warranty. Having said that, MOKI for sure!
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Aileron servo glitch/failure? I think I go along with the majority, these fittings are OK if installed correctly (i.e. loctite and preferably flat on the wire) on light weight foamys. 30 or larger glow powered aircraft I am not so sure.
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Try here **LINK**
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Posted by Martyn Johnston on 27/08/2013 08:50 Somebody said to soak the bent bits with boiling water and they might come back to shape again. That certainly works a treat but don't use boiling water just hot. I repaired a mates foamy he ploughed in (HK AXN) it went from snub nosed and twisted to straight and flyable. Although the foam didn't completely return to its pre-crash state it was very close.
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Posted by Tony Nijhuis on 03/02/2013 00:23:55: The point made earlier about 'yet another P51 and taking a commercial view, is right. I did the Miles M57 Areovan a few years ago as an obscure request to design it (against my better judgement) and what a pig to design and produce....all for about 10 sales so far.......a real bomb....so not again. Firstly may I say thankyou Tony for your great work in designing some great model aircraft. Now onto the sales volume, I believe part of the problem may well be the ridiculous shipping costs associated with buying from this site. As an example I live in Australia and was very interested in the Harvard, so I placed the plan and woodpack into my cart, total was eighty seven pounds fifty, all good so far. Then I set the delivery location to Australia and up popped the delivery charge of one hundred and one pounds to make a total of one hundred and eighty eight ponds fifty. Well, not going to happen is it.
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Got to love the apocryphal internet tales! No definitive reference, the "out of control" aircraft and crash investigation done by whom and using what evidence. Not saying an incident didn't occur but please reference it correctly. Bottom line, my opinion is remove the covering and glue it in with epoxy. Worked for me over the years. Edited for language..... Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 15/08/2013 12:21:04
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I agree with most in that I remove the covering and glue (usually epoxy) the tailplane in place. However Andrew Jesky is an award winning aerobatic pilot of some standing and I guess his opinion and methods have to count for something. On the quality of the covering on his planes I am guessing they are not of the cheap chinese sticky backed variety. Come to think of it the forces effecting the tailplane (assuming a nice tight fitting mount) would mean a strong adhesive probably is not required. Most of the force would be in the vertical plane and this would bear directly on the airframe. Assuming here of course the tailplane is slid in to a tight fitting slot (as is intimated by having to slide it in and spreading the adhesive). If mounted onto the fus then clearly the joint would be exposed to greater stress. As evidence I have a Parkzone foamy Corsair which has had hundreds of flights and the tailplane is held by two pieces of sticky tape about an inch long on either side and this has never moved, even in two nose in crashes! Edited By Ausferret on 14/08/2013 12:04:53 Edited By Ausferret on 14/08/2013 12:10:52
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Speed Twin ST2 - a twin-engined kit build
Ausferret replied to Tim Hooper's topic in RCM&E Plan Builders
No apologies required Tim. Thankyou for a cracking plan, I am enjoying the build. I intend t make the model with the in line engine as per the picture in this thread and have included some electric retracts which will retract to the rear. Will post pictures when completed. -
Interestingly Andrew Jesky in a video on building and setting up one of his design Slicks tells how he merely CAs the tailplane in and doesn't even bother removing the covering. He has never had an issue with a tailplane moving and I would say he puts his aircraft through more punishing routines than the typical club flyer. I wonder if the old fart ways (I include myself in this category!) are not relevant today? Edited By Ausferret on 14/08/2013 00:51:35 Edited By Ausferret on 14/08/2013 00:55:17
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Where do I go to source litho plate these days, we used to have a printing department at the College where I worked and It was free, but i have no idea where to get it from now. Cheers, Chris. I managed to get hold of a reasonable substitute in the form of aluminium flashing strip from my local hardware store here in Oz. Width is 150mm and is 0.35mm thick. Tried to add photo from album but it won't let me! Edited By Ausferret on 12/08/2013 06:48:11
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In my experience the first reaction when a model goes in is usually, in this order, radio failure, other equipment/fittings failure, interference, god hates me or finally pilot error. The Spektrum/Futaba/JR/Hitec equipment is rubbish comments usually follow. This is of course nonsense all the well known brands are of excellent quality and are reliable. Their functioning is predicated on correct installation and setup with component failure a possibility, but remote. A club member recently lost a self-designed nice twin ducted fan model where at about 300 metres away it just rolled to the right and dived to the ground. After the usual upset and slow walk of shame we got to the model pieces and gathered them up. Back at the pits upon inspection it was pretty obvious what the issue was, receiver placement next to batteries and ESC with no real seperation of the satellite. To add to this he flies with his transmitter antenna straight up and points the transmitter at the model during flight. This (the aerial tip) I am led to believe is the part of the aerial with the weakest signal transmission. It may be there is an element of component failure but to label the entire brand as unreliable is clearly unreasonable. I fly Futaba and Spektrum and have had not a single issue with either. My Spektrum DX8 is used for the majority of my models now, including some bind and fly fixed wings and small helicopter. I use mostly Spektrum receivers but in my cheap foamies I have HK Orange receivers and these have never let me down even when flown at extreme visual range. So I guess it is pot luck if you happen to get a component of dubious quality and if this results in an aircraft loss then of course it leads to suspicion about the reliability of the manufacturer's products. But taken overall given the numbers out there the failure rate is low and if it is a software glitch then all are pretty quick these days to correct the error. Any computerised system is complex and hey, they are designed by humans and we ain't perfect!
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Speed Twin ST2 - a twin-engined kit build
Ausferret replied to Tim Hooper's topic in RCM&E Plan Builders
Posted by Tim Hooper on 11/03/2012 19:09:31: I've cut out the sides of the motor mounts from 2mm liteply, and also built a teensy little alignment jig from balsa. The idea is that with the wing panel laid flat on the board, the mount sides are jigged up by 23mm as they're glued to the insides of R4 and 5, resulting in zero downthrust. Simple, eh? I found the jig height incorrect as it gave up-thrust and the mount sides didn't locate correctly between the spars. I reduced the jig height to 14 mm and this gave me the required zero degrees thrust line. Has anyone else found this I wonder? -
I converted mine a while ago to electric, using 6 cell 5000mAH batteries she flies nicely. Rough finish I know but I was in a hurry to convert her for a weekends flying.
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