leccyflyer

Given the article format, maybe Bodders meant that they flew better in knife edge?

2x15amp brushless ESCs in the instructions. 2x2204 20g outrunners, 3000kv 2s1p 1000mah lipo 2c 6"x4" props (1CW, 1CCW).

That's great timing Paul - my FW190 fuselage is taking shape and I will shortly be moving onto the wing. If these are available soon, maybe I'll be able to opt for going direct to retracts, bypassing the dolly stage. 😎👍

I would stop short of that advice to encourage the karting club to take photographs to identify any transgressors, these days it would be very easy indeed to spoof a photograph, or just change the date on which it appears a photograph was taken and you would be playing into the hands of anyone who wanted to have the site to themselves, without any model flying activities. It ought to be enough for the club to put measures in place to prevent members from flying on the days that the kart track is in operation and to let the karters know than, but I think it would be dangerous to give them ideas and make statements about contravention of the ANO.

If it's an event being undertaken by uninvolved persons then there should be no overflying of that event. If there is a risk of losing your field due to some members wanting to overfly the go-kart track then the club needs to do something about those members, preventing them from overflying the event.

Cliff - Banana Hobby have the parts listed, but currently out of stock. https://www.bananahobby.com/all-tian-sheng-rc-plane-parts.html

If you are in any doubt about the ability of Oratex to stick to a substrate then applying a smear of CoverGrip or, if you still have any, Balsaloc, will aid the adhesion. It should be okay though. Personally I'd cover the model and then add the canopy over that. You could iron thin strips of covering over the glued canopy edge, to finish off neatly. For semi- scale models I do like to outline the canopy framing with strips of aluminium tape and add some dummy rivets to that with a piece of narrow bore brass tube, before masking and painting the canopy frame.

Usually canopy glue or RC Modellers glue (RC56) after covering, but on occasion, where the airframe is suitable, I use the tiny screws from Mick Reeves, after covering.

The article says that the micro brushless motor is from Steve Webb Models. It also says that the very small receiver is available from Microaces. It's highly unlikely that John Stennard will just happen across this post. His contact details are in the magazine article, so you could ask him directly by email about the source for the tiny brushed motor, ESC and lipo combination.

Less than a penny each if you buy 1000 at once....

The motor on page 67 of the May RCM&E is a brushed motor.

£3.49 for 200 on eBay - that's less than tuppence each.

Yep, every time I buy a cup of overpriced brown liquid from one of those chains I collect an appropriate number of these very useful stirring sticks, despite taking neither sugar, nor milk. They are so useful in many ways - perfect leading edge reinforcement for 6mm depron wings, superb paint and epoxy stirrers and applicators and clipping the end off makes for nice lightweight control horns. The chain doesn't lose out, since I'm partaking of neither sugar, nor milk and they would go in the bin anyway. I've nowhere near a shoebox full though, maybe a dozen on the go at any one time. Don't eat Magnums these days but a bulk buy of lolly sticks from eBay is very cheap, with hundreds in a pack and lasts a long time. These are useful as stirrers and applicators, plus local hardwood reinforcement - nice hardpoints for mini and micro servos into balsa and foam.

Big bad wind and rain yesterday, gusting over 40 kts and with Biblical rain, but while still windy this morning it was just showers and so managed a few enjoyable hours on the slope. Superb lift and just the one short, sharp, shower. That flying was a bonus, as the main part of the mission was to see if my Wannabee had been dislodged from the grasp of the mighty oak. Thankfully that was the case and damage was limited to a broken wing bolt plate and pretty soaked foam model. Nothing a dab of epoxy and a tickle with the covering iron won't cure. The RX battery was dead flat, so that has had it's leads clipped and gone into the pile for recycling.

That's what confused me GG - you'd both posted pictures of what looked like the same model. I was doing the "Find five differences between these pictures" thing.

There's a heck of a lot of deep discussion on the actual colour of K5054, which was certainly, after the first few flights, finished in a kind of light grey/blue. For the first flight it's likely that the aeroplane was in a combination of polished aluminium and primer, but it was subsequently painted in that elusive bluish colour. Contemporary sources, including R.J.Mitchell's son, describe the colour as cerulean blue, but doubts have been cast on whether that is a general description or a specific paint shade.

I'm confused now - whose is the Hurricane sitting on the table with the checked tablecloth?

Beautiful job on the Hurricane Eric 😎 Like Spitfires, you can never have too many Hurricanes......

You'll love it - they are so manoeuvrable, so much fun to fly and do fly well on a 2s1p 800mah lipo, with a 1300kv pole and stator motor and 8x6" prop. I prefer to use a 3s1p 600mah pack, propped down to 7x6" and that gives a bit more speed, albeit over a shorter flight.

Try climbing out quite steeply then put in a bootful of left rudder and the SE5a will do a remarkable tucked under turn around into a tight spin, all on her own - it would be a brilliant evasive manoeuvre in combat - it's great fun though if you stop it after half a turn and come back towards yourself.

Painting is historically the big hold up for me. Largely due to not having had anywhere to do it and never being fully satisfied with a brushed, rather than sprayed finish. I do now manage to do a little bit of airbrush work, but am so concerned about overspray that it puts me off any further attempts at an overall spray finish on all but the smallest models that can at least fit in the mouth of the airbrush "booth".

Nice flying Lipo Man - I enjoyed watching that. 🙂 Finally made a start on my FW190 today, just marking the bits up and getting the fuselage doublers glued up to dry overnight. Very impressed with the quality of the laser cutting and rewatching the first few of Ron's build vLOgs.

Well done David - I'm sure that your pal was delighted and really appreciates your help. A couple of glasses of Leffe after such a momentous occasion was most definitely the order of the day. 😎

These battery checkers were mainly for checking the receiver pack, so typically 4.8v packs, though some slightly fancier ones were switchable between 4.8v and 6.0v packs, with a wee button to put the pack under a fixed load.