Jump to content

Steve Houghton

Members
  • Posts

    1,084
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

326 profile views

Steve Houghton's Achievements

20

Reputation

  1. Thanks Pete, I think I'll just not say anything to the family! I know the JR DSX-9 has a Flap Trim adjuster, so maybe this will be my equivalent of the Futaba rotary.
  2. Thanks, both. Pete: I like the adjustable trim idea. I'll have to check whether my JR DSX-9 supports that. It has no rotary controls, but a few spare sliders. Something to dabble with after the Christmas Dinner, I think!
  3. Thanks Martin, Yes I will have flaps and have started experimenting with programming crow brakes - never used either before, so it will be an interesting exercise.
  4. Hi Martin, Thanks for that. The main restriction on up elevator on my model is the leading edge catching on the fuselage. However, I don't think it needs to move that far for the movements quoted on the plan. If I now remove the -1mm tailplane incidence in line with your recommendation, that will give me even more clearance at the LE and TE..
  5. Hi David, Thanks for your query. The fin fairings are now finished and shaped, but I didn't think they were significant enough to post pictures. I'll try to post some shortly. Tailplane Incidence I wondered if anyone can tell me what incidence the all moving tail should be set at relative to the wing? With my wing propped up at 0 degrees (parallel to my bench), I have -1mm at the leading edge of the tailplane. Alternatively, with the tailplane propped at 0 degrees I have +2.5mm at the wing leading edge. Does this sound about right? Regards, Steve
  6. Thanks Phil, and well done to all the builders who completed on time. I'm hoping my continuing efforts may inspire others who haven't reached the finishing line yet. At least it will keep the build threads active until the next Mass Build!
  7. They think its all over!! It isn't now! A 6 month deficit of spare time has set me back a little and I missed the main event, but I'm pressing on.... It was great to see that stunning array of 16 Sabres at the Great Orme in September - I'm sure there must still be a few in hiding, along with mine. Closing the Loop Here's a general shot of the radio bay progress. The elevator pushrod is disconnected to show the closed loop operating crank - I like to take any strain off the servo bearings if possible. The take-off points for the cables (not yet attached) are +/-16mm from the pivot, to match the spacing of the holes in the rudder horns. The cable guide tubes are still free to slide back into place when I'm ready but I aimed to set them to the same spacing as the attachments to the crank, which I managed fairly well. I couldn't get the required rudder throw from the standard Hitec servo arms, so I've used one of these Hitec adjustable arms for the first time - it works a treat, and allows very fine adjustments to the throw (I prefer mechanical to electronic adjustments - it doesn't matter if I lose the radio settings then!). Blending In I'm fairing the fin with 1/2" triangular stock along the base of the fin, and will use thinner stock along the strake. I chose to keep the fin fat while I add the fairings, and then trim the trailing edge later to blend in with the rudder. The reason being so that I didn't lose any width from the fairings - on my photos they seem to be the full width of the tailplane fairing and then taper off towards the front. I hope I can achieve the correct rudder blending shape with this method. For the strake at the front of the fin I used 1/4" balsa. This leaves quite a step in front of the leading edge of the 1/2" fin, even after shaping the LE. The triangular fairing has to bend downwards and sideways at this point, so I applied many saw cuts underneath, and a dampening of the top wood, to coax it into shape while the glue dried. Again, I tried to keep the closed loop tubes +/-16mm apart, and they'll eventually be trimmed flush with the wood. I glued the fin strake onto the top stringers rather than onto the planking because I wanted to leave the last pieces of top planking until the last minute in case I needed to see inside to re-thread the cable guide tubes through the fuz. Having satisfied myself of an adequate cable routing, I then butted the top planks against the fin sides:
  8. Very interesting, Skip; thanks for finding that video, and thanks to Paul Stewart for making it. The running commentary about the CAC Sabre's history is fascinating, and the tail end pics look almost as good as my model!! I've not yet decided how to model the tail lights, but I am noting carefully how other builders have done it.
  9. Chris, Many thanks for the reminder of your link. I have already downloaded your orignal Ballerina posts about the sauce, to save as a reference document. If anyone wants references to the glassing technique (after reading the excellent blogs on this forum, of course): RCM&E Special Issue 2019, article by Danny Fenton. RCM&E June 2018 Workshop Supplement, article by Tony Nijhuis. I ordered some materials from Phil Clark at Fighteraces, and he also sent a helpful article of his own. Skip, glad my struggles are helping. It will be great to see some photos on your Avon Sabre blog in due course - I hope the shoulder is clearing up to allow you to proceed. You have some useful photos, especially of the tail end, which I have only just spotted.
  10. Thanks Gents, Chris, I did draw inspiration from your roll. It all helps us to develop new ideas and techniques. I am seriously contemplating my first glassfibre covering for this build, so may be coming back for advice on the Sauce. I've read your's and Phil's blogs on the matter, so I think I understand the principles and ingredients. I'm still hoping to meet the September deadline, but progress needs to be significantly faster than last year!
  11. Chris, I love your attention to detail. It really makes a model stand out from the crowd.
  12. Roll Your Own Following a similar principle to my Jet Provost tailpipe, and a few ideas borrowed from Chris McG, I made the tailpipe by rolling a ring of 1/32" ply around the best sized former I could find (other body cleaning products are available), and then added a few layers of 1/16" balsa to thicken it up. This was all wetted with water and left to dry: After overnight drying it was all laminated with aliphatic glue, the top flattened off, and a location tab added to the top to fit between the tailplane fairings. This allowed dry-fitting to the fuselage and rough shaping: Put Another Ring On It I wanted the ply ring to be as near to the fuselage skin as possible. However, my fuselage was not an accurate round shape and with the initial ring size it would have been too high up the fuselage to allow enough meat for carving the streamlined duct shape. Hence I added two more inner rings of 1/16" balsa and another 1/32" ply ring. This seemed to be adequate to carve a nice shape, albeit giving much thicker side walls than I wanted: With the duct still dry fitted I could remove it to carve the initial shape onto the tailplane fairings: Mistaken Identity Further study of the Avon Sabre's duct showed that it needed a different shape to that which I originally carved, which was based on other F86 marks. After gluing it all together, with a top ply plate as used by other builders and a further 1/32" ply liner inside the top of the duct, I ended up with this: The taper on the tailplane fairings extends further forwards and higher up: Here's One We Made Earlier It should have ended up with something like this, from a different Avon Sabre, but the shape is the same for mine: ... and this is how it turned out - final shaping and sanding still needed: The inner lining will be smoothed down in due course. The side walls of the duct can be thinned a little, but I can't get them down to the thickness of one layer of metal. It will definitely be 'stand well off' scale. However, I'm fairly pleased with the overall effect.
  13. In a word, Phil....STUNNING! You're showing us all the way to go about scale modelling again. I reckon you should let someone else judge this MB, so that you can be in the running for a prize at last. How about inviting a modelling celebrity to help with the judging - Mr. D.Fenton, for example (other celebrities are available!).
  14. Thanks Martin, I think it was your recommendation that I was recalling.
×
×
  • Create New...