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Anthony Billings

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Everything posted by Anthony Billings

  1. Totaly agree with Barrie, the SLEC jig is excellent.
  2. The instruction sheet that comes with the roll of Solartex, Solarfilm etc are very good. Tony
  3. Hi, I too have used the heat method for releasing loctite and it works well. Tony
  4. Hi, I too used to have problems with Deans, but now I have changed over to EC3's and EC5's no more problems, and a lot easier to solder. Tony
  5. Hi and welcome, you will find a very friendly and helpful bunch on here. Tony
  6. Hi, if you go to the heliguy website, you will find a guy on there called chopperadict, follow the link to his website and you can download his free tutorial which shows how to do the full setup and diagrams on how to use the pitch gauge correctly. If you have problems then pm me and I will go through it with you. Tony
  7. Hi, motor to esc to lipo, test the motor for direction of rotaion, if its wrong then swap any two wires from the motor to esc around. Tony
  8. Al fridays are good as the next day is the weekend, even better if there is a freebie involved.
  9. Hi Ian, helifreaks is a good site, finless bob posts on that site, loads of good set up vids. If you are after a UK site then heliguy will serve you well, a guy called chopperaddict posts on there, he has his own site as well with lots of hints and tips and set up guides as well. Tony
  10. Hi Peter, Spectrum are a good brand, I use a Dx7 myself but it's what feels comfortable to you, try a few at your LMS and see how they feel. A lot of the BnF models are fitted out for Spectrum Tx's but the PnP you can fit what system you like. Either way you can kit yourself out fairly cheaply these days, you can pick up a Dx6i for not much money nowadays. Tony
  11. I hope there will be lots of photo's on the club website. Tony
  12. Hi, I am away at sea at the moment, so do not have my tx to hand, but if you have the manual there is a small section on how to return the tx to it's default factory settings. Tony
  13. Hi again mate, where did you get it from, as it should have come with lipo's in the first place. If it is the V1 it will use a 7.4v lipo, if a V2 then it is a 11,2v lipo and yes you will need a lipo charger. Tony
  14. Hi, I was an owner of the good old Honey Bee V1, I have since passed it on to my son to learn with, I take it you have the newer V2 a much improved version. The hardest thing to learn with a heli is a stable hover, once you have that cracked the rest seems to follow at a natural pace. They say learning to hover a heli is like trying to balance a golf ball on top of a football while balancing the whole lot on a sheet of glass hehe well it's not that bad and there are a number of things you can do to make it easier. First off, there are blades designed just for hovering called ezeblades, just google them, they are designed to make the hover more stable but are no good for normal flight. The next thing is that some people try to get into a stable hover too close to the ground, and doing this puts you into what is called ground effect, which is where the dirty air forced down from the rotor blades bounces up off the floor and upsets the heli, all heli's including full size heli's suffer from this, the ground effect zone is normally twice the hight of the width of the rotor blades. Secondly all heli's including full size will veer to the left as they take off due to the torque of the rotor, so as you increase the throttle to take off you need to add a little nudge to the right to compensate. So to sum it up, even with a HBFP you need a fair amount of space to practise your hovers, spool up the throttle so that you can see it is nearly ready to lift off, then add a bit more to take it up to about three feet whilst controling the veer to the left. When you first start you will find yourself going too high and then dropping down to the floor again (bunny hopping) this is normal, but after a while you will soon know how mutch throttle to add to get up out of ground effect without going too high, always practise tail in at first before you try side on. Hope this helps Tony Edited By Anthony Billings on 08/08/2012 23:01:35
  15. If we are looking at a mid wing model then surely we should add our own Peter Miller's Harlequin.
  16. I think nearly all the essential tools have been covered above with the exception of a hinge slotting tool, I have the DUBRO set and found it very easy to use, I think it is a must if you are going to use the Mylar type hinges. Tony
  17. Typical, this is my local club, not joined them yet but hoping to soon, and I will miss this event, just checked my schedule and I will be back at sea. Tony
  18. EC3's and 5's for me, very easy to solder with no chance of melting the plastic surround. Edited By Anthony Billings on 31/07/2012 22:02:27
  19. What a shock, my thoughts go out to his family. He will be sadly missed on this forum. Tony
  20. Hi Roy, not to hijack Geoff's thread, that is a SLEC building jig, all the components come apart from the board you mount it all on, I have found mine very easy to use and well worth the money. Geoff, when can we expect the next installment ? waiting with baited breath. Tony
  21. Thanks Bernie, bobbing around in the fog off the coast of Canada at the moment, can't wait to get home and complete this build. Tony
  22. Reminds me of the Russian (I believe) heli used for carrying logs away, the heli is supposed to be very stable.
  23. Neck strap for me as I use the pinch method of holding the sticks. Tony
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