Andy48

On my Pupetteer, the yoke is the arming plug.

I've been using arming plugs for years, indeed I published something on it years ago in RCME, so nothing new. Point of failure, true there is a possibility, but its never happened to me and almost all my models have them. However, as a safety feature is is very well worth it. I never fit the arming plug until the model is on the take off strip.

Good for keeping the tired old brain cells exercised though. 😄

Self levelling is very useful for checking the flight surfaces respond in the correct way when setting up the model. It also acts as AFU mode (all f@@@ed up mode). A quick flick over to self levelling and back is occasionally useful when you lose orientation of the model. You can also put this on a button, so that a quick press can get you out of trouble, but don't hold it down. I use one of the buttons on the back of my Tandem X20.

Yes they are backward compatible, BUT the setup for a SR6 is subtly different, which is a right pain.

Model Fixings : https://modelfixings.co.uk/ Also have a look on sites like Banggood and Temu. They often sell boxes of screws, nuts and washers which are good value:

I've got some Zeee 4S 3300 batteries and they are excellent, with a noticeable power improvement. Indeed after buying a couple to try them out, I now have 4 more. I've also got some 3S ones as well and they well outperform similar batteries

After 3 prangs with my Speccy system within 2 weeks all caused by radio problems I changed to FrSky. We do get interference down at the field, and most regular fliers changed away from Speccy, mostly to Futaba. I'm pretty much the only one with FrSky gear, but no regrets and the few crashes I have now are certainly down to pilot error. The investment in FrSky stuff was not painful at all, indeed I sold all of my receivers for more than the new FrSky ones cost. I'm right at home with OpenTX, and now slowly migrating to Ethos and my X20.

My new electric Acro Wot was a pig to fly until I moved the CofG a good cm forward from recommended, loads of noseweight, 4000 5S battery as far forward as it would go, tail as light as possible.

With a new setup, I do a ground range check, its usually a long walk. Then being a Frsky system I do a couple of test flights and examine the range telemetry data afterwards. This tests the model on full power and in all orientations. Incidentally being Frsky, you get a warning on every flight if there is a range problem.

Look on the bright side Tim, it gives the old brain a workout, and helps stave off dementia for a little longer (or so I keep trying to convince myself).

Tim, try unplugging any other devices on USB. I found the printer interfered with mine.

Expensive treacle at that. 😒

It says the Neuron 2 will be upgradeable using Ethos 1.5 which is not yet available. If using OTX, the LUA script seems to need an ESC firmware update:

I'm have no idea what outcome you are trying to achieve. Are you trying to make a foolproof switch to enable and disable the throttle? @MattyB I did write all of it. Gave up updating it when a whole range of other transmitters were included and it just became too complicated to include all the possible transmitter variations.

Tim, I presume you mean an S8R, not the SR8 (which is non Archer). Both will run on your system. The problem is the wrong LUA script. I had the same problem quite some time ago, but for the life of me now I cannot remember where I got the correct LUA script from.

Almost all my models have an arming plug (except a couple of foamy EDFs, and I have an almost foolproof tx switch for those). I walk onto the flight line, arm the model, and then check the control functions. When arming, the model is pointing away from the pits and I stand with the rear fus between my legs so it cannot accidentally take off. I only use a restraint when testing a new model to ensure all the safety settings function correctly and the range check is satisfactory. With the arming plug, there is just no way the model can become live between inserting the battery in the pits and walking out to the flight line.

To university that is, and away from their local club.

There was a problem with some X9D trainer ports, and they would only work with mono.

I know my transmitter has a centre of 1500us, and end points of 988us and 2012us (some transmitters are different, noticeably Futaba), so I set the centre point on the tester to 1500us to set up the best position for the servo arm and then set up the neutral control surfaces, and use the end points set to the above to test the maximum throws. Surprisingly the gadget proves to be remarkably accurate. Finally my transmitter stays clean and dust free. As I fly electric, it tends to stay that way down at the field. BTW I never set up a model to max servo travel, preferring to use a deflection of 30 degrees either side of centre. At this limit, the end of the servo arm travel is roughly linear and directly proportional to the stick input, and indeed this is the reason most servo manufacturers (eg Hitec, and Emax here), use this figure in their specs: and Emax:

I find a digital servo tester invaluable. The centre and end points are accurate compared to the transmitter, and I set up the control surfaces using the tester, to get the throws as described in the build data. Once the receiver is fitted, I check them again, but rarely need any adjustment. Almost always the maiden flight requires no more than a couple of clicks to achieve hands free flight.

Yes. You need a mono lead.

I had a plane lose all power on take off. Fortunately it had the grace to make a successful stop without damage. Turned out the connector on one side of the EC5 plug was pushed out of the housing. It made enough contact to run for the first few seconds but the vibration of the take off was enough to shake it loose. Binned the lot and now have the XT30/60/90 range.

That's all right when I use an arming switch for a model, but most of them I don't, I use an arming plug instead.

Thanks for the sarcasm, I've read the manual. There's an awful lot left out, and its a very uninspiring read! I'm not a great fan of videos, one wades through interminable woffle at the start, and has to endure ages of badly produced video to get to the nugget you need. That's the point, you need a LUA to make it work, you don't with OpenTX. I am well aware the timers work, they just don't work as well or as simply as as on OpenTX. Set the timer to trigger, and it starts counting as soon as the transmitter is switched on. How useless is that? Set the timer to absolute and it stops counting when the throttle is closed, as you suggest, but its not what I want. I want something that will count how long a flight is, which is what OpenTX does. I don't need it to measure the throttle open time. I use telemetry of the battery consumption for that these days.