Trevor

I too have happy memories of those days, both of the EF-UK mag, and the fly-ins. A period of rapid, shared, learning.

Yes, thin cyano will dissolve Depron. You need a foam-safe cyano. It’s thicker though, so best to work it into the slots with a pin or thin wire before assembly rather than rely on it wicking in.

Gliders porpoising with no control input is a sign of too much uptrim and/or a forward cg. People often try to fix this by piling more lead in the nose so I’d suggest you take some out and re-trim the elevator accordingly good luck. Trevor

Kings Lynn Models are excellent and will help you all they can. As regards switching ESC brands, I'd strongly recommend HobbyWing (Can't speak for HobbyKIng although at one point some of their range were re-badged HobbyWIng). I've used them (HW) almost exclusively for many years and never had an an issue. It's noticeable that some of the higher end ARTFs, e.g. FreeWing EDFs, now use HobbyWing ESCs without feeling the need to re-badge them.

I agree. But having a near-zero crash rate is a sure fire way of ending up with too many models, overcrowded storage arrangements and the associated increased risk of hangar rash!

I can’t remember when I last added a new manoeuvre to my flying repertoire so yes, I’m definitely guilty of flying within my comfort zone. However I have far too many models and do try to give each of them an airing at least once a year. This does mean that some of them (mainly the bigger, more complex ones) come out so rarely that it seems like a maiden flight every time so that, at least for the first few moments of the flight I’m definitely feeling less than comfortable. Funnily enough, by the time the flight is over, I’m usually thinking ‘That flies really nicely, I must bring it out more often”. Then another year passes. . .

Remarkable work as always. But that definitely does look like a case of ‘the wrong trousers’!😀

This is my Electric Aeromaster. Click in the ‘Project Diary’ link for details of the build - including the battery hatch. https://www.bartonhewsons.uk/home/modelflying/sport/aeromasterkeydat.html Enjoy the conversion project. Trevor

Full marks for a challenging subject! A chuck glider is definitely called for but I'd be tempted to fit a gyro from day one anyway, if that's not against your principles. Also, although I know you love you like your bifurcated ducts, are you sure it wouldn't be easier to use twin edfs on this one? Trevor

Have a good look at the ESC to motor connections. If you’re really lucky it could just be one of these that”s failed 🤞

Ragged circuits are often caused either by i) Not spotting that the model has drifted off the desired course (Jon's suggestion of picking out a few landmark trees etc. can help here as it forces you to 'zoom out' a bit and be more aware of the surroundings) ii) Failing to come out of a turn on the intended heading, maybe due to disorientation or misjudging the timing and amount of opposite aileron needed to straighten the model up. In these early stages you are basically watching the model fly, detecting when it is drifting off course, working out what control inputs are needed to correct it, then applying them. This is a high workload and will inevitably result in a less than smooth flight pattern. With practice, some of this, especially working out what control inputs are needed, becomes automatic and you will find that you are leading the aeroplane around the intended path rather than following it and trying to get it back on track. You'll know when you've reached this stage because, not only will the flying suddenly become a lot smoother but, if anyone were to ask you questions like 'did you have to apply opposite aileron during that turn', you won't be able to answer, because you just did what was needed without having to think about it!

For what it's worth, I've had 28 flights on mine with the stock ESC & prop, including some vigorous aerobatics (but not 3D!). This included some flying over the hot days of summer (remember them?). No problems. Full throttle static draw on mine measured at just shy of 40a, but I can't recall what the IR of the battery was, and I do routinely just charge to 4.17v per cell so I can well believe that you will exceed 40a on a freshly charged, brand new battery. However, unless you like to take off and climb on full throttle until out of sight, I can't see it being a problem. It's a lovely model though - enjoy it.

The Ivan Pettigrew ones always fly well. They’re a plan build though and, since the plans are hand drawn, no real prospect of a laser cut set of parts. Trevor

33 years old, and possibly still my favourite glider, for slope or aerotow. Trevor

Full details (but no modified plan) are here: https://www.bartonhewsons.uk/home/modelflying/sport/spectrediary.html Trevor

Looks great. I approve of the colour choice😀

After a long break, I finally got out on Saturday to maiden my 1:4.2 Topaze, built from the Chris Williams plan. Full details here: https://www.bartonhewsons.uk/home/modelflying/soarers/topazekeydata.html Thanks to the designer chappie for the pics. Trevor

And, just to confuse the issue further, Sullivan also supply 2mm snakes as well as their usual 2-56. So, unless you're using the whole kit in one go, when you tear off the card to get into the package, slide that card back inside rather than binning it and keep any spare clevises etc in separate labelled poly bags!

But we’re all still on tenterhooks until Geoff gets his Gladiator . . .

That's my understanding too, but I admit to not really understanding the design rationale behind this approach. I can see why it would be economical in EVs based on i.c. designs but on vehicles designed from the ground up as EVs, it does seem rather perverse.

I agree with all this but one last thing before committing someone else's model to the air for a maiden flight: remind them of the contract: You'll do your absolute best to bring it back down in one piece but no comeback if it all goes wrong! Trevor

Well done for facing up to this rather daunting repair project!

Given that I have had 100% reliability with these servos, generally operating off 5v BEC supplies, it would seem that maybe 5cell NiMh (which, fully charged, could be around 7v) is too much? Trevor

I’ve used Corona servos almost exclusively for many years and must have several dozen of them in regular use. I use a variety of sizes and go for the digital MG versions. I have found them totally reliable, they centre well and are slop-free. As others have mentioned, I have had mounting lugs fail on the mid size ones on one occasion . But it was a rather spectacular crash! Trevor