Hydeflyer

Has anyone reversed the trainer switch on an Aurora 9 Tx from the right side to the left side, for use as a launch mode control for DLG?

I'm having the same issues. No response via phone or email and my online profile has been disconnected so I can't check the status of my order. Decide to go tp PayPal who immediately refunded part of the order value. I can't find where the rest is! If you Google RC Model Store reviews, check the Trustpilot ones and there are over 20 1 star reviews quoting the same issues. Goods paid for and not received and unable to contact supplier. Avoid them I'd say!

Thanks for the replies... I've realised that the elevator pushrod is probably not broken but has come away from the clevis at the bellcrank. Of course this is enclosed and inaccessible and as Nigel suggests it pivots close to the leading edge of the fin. I will have to cut a hole in the fus near the base of the bellcrank to see what's happened and then try a repair. I've just remembered I have the remains an old Typhoon tail end and have opened it up to see the arrangement of the clevis. (photos below). It will help me to decide the best way forward.

I've just repaired my RCRCM Tomcat fuselage after a partial twist fracture midway along the boom behind the wing. Sadly, now I've tested everything I find the elevator snake is not operating the bellcrank in the tail fin so it must be broken internally. Can anyone advise how to get at this element to effect a repair? Clearly some cutting out will be required around the base of the fin but I'm not sure of the connection or how much to cut out to get access. The push-rod is solid carbon inside a plastic outer tube so I'm assuming the carbon rod has snapped inside the tube. has anyone done a similar repair... the RCRCM Typhoon is exactly the same I believe.

I have accidentally corrected the problem thanks to a combination of a Youtube video, some help from a colleague and some trial and error. This is a cautionary tale for all Hitec Aurora 9 users! Don't try and change from normal mode (factory default) to scan mode as you will loose connection with ALL your receivers! I've been trying to re-bind my receivers without success until I realised there is a difference between the standard Optima Rx series, the Minima series and several of the aftermarket "Hitec compatible" Rx available. When carrying out the rebinding process to an Optima 6 I noticed that the light on the Tx module was blue and that when I powered up the Rx with the link button depressed, nothing happened. I tried again but this time, whilst the Tx was in link mode, I pressed the module button again until the blue light turned red, switched off and rebound the Optima 6 successfully, thus re-establishing control. Then I went to a model with a Minima Rx and tried to power up but there was no bind and no control. I tried to rebind the Rx with the red light showing on the Tx and it wouldn't bind. So whilst in the bind mode I changed the Tx module light to blue, switched off and tried to rebind the Rx... It worked and I have control of the Minima. SO... to bind an Optima Rx the light on the module needs to be red and for a Minima (or aftermarket Hitec compatible Rx) the light on the module needs to be blue. Better not to try changing in the first place!!

Thanks for quick responses. I've watched the video and it doesn't resolve the issue I'm afraid. Also pressing the button for 5 secs doesn't solve it either. The Tx is sending irregular pulses to the Rx (Optima 6) along with occasional beeps but no control function. I think I've screwed it up big time! None of my other model work either!!

I'm desperate! I've inadvertently changed my Tx from Normal to scan mode (or something else), resulting in loss of control of all my models. I've tried many times to reverse the module to normal mode but it is stuck in limbo! Can anyone help please?

Thanks Barry.. Sounds like you know what you're talking about! I'll start dismantling and have a look at the FETs then I'll see whether I have the skill to attempt a repair. Cheers!

Two and a half years on from the last post on this thread I know but I've just bought a second hand Mcpx V2 as a RTF package and after a few clumsy attempts to fly have broken it already! Not ever having messed with a heli before, never-mind trying to repair one, I would value some advice on its problem(s) and potential solutions. The model was crashed fairly heavily but apart from the canopy flying off there seemed to be no obvious damage. When I re-tried it the model it immediately went round in a circle. On close inspection it was obvious that the tail rotor plug into the circuit board was disconnected. When it was plugged back in and the model was powered up, the tail rotor spun-up at full chat without any input on the throttle and some smoke issued from the main motor. I switched off immediately but there was no sign of damage to wiring or circuitry. At first I though the rotor plug may be reversed so I turned it round, re-tried and the tail rotor still spun -up. The main rotor is very stiff and although it can be spun-up on full throttle, after only a few seconds it dies out as if the battery is exhausted and the tail rotor continues to spin at full speed seemingly independent of the main rotor speed. Looks like a new main motor is required at relatively modest cost but will this cure the tail rotor problem? Is the tail rotor operation linked to the main motor in some way to make it operate proportionally? If it needs a new circuit board (About £45!) I won't bother! Any advice please?

I've now tried the switching on the ESC / Rx with the D/R switch forward (motor ON) and it doesn't spin up the prop. Instead the ESC goes into programme mode and I was able to set the brake at least, by moving the D/R switch back to OFF within 2 secs. Other programme functions may be available by leaving the switch forward and allowing the ESC to go through its various tones until the one required is reached. Then pushing the switch back should accept the programme function you need to change. I haven't tried this yet because the ESC default settings are OK for my model. Hope this helps anyone else with an Eclipse 7.

On a slightly different note, don't expect to fully programme an ESC in the GLIDER set up on the Eclipse 7 as the only way you can have an electric motor running in the GLIDER menu is using the elevator D/R switch and that means either motor ON or OFF. (Full power or none!) As I've just found out after much head scratching, the ESC will recognise the switch as ON or OFF so you can have power, but none of the ESC's programme functions can be activated as the slider lever on the Tx is not available to accept or confirm them. Ask me how many times I tried before the penny dropped! This is worrying of course 'cos it begs the question.. what happens if I plug in my model with the Elev D/R switch forward? Will the prop spin up on full power straight away or is there a fail safe to prevent that? I daren't try it as the prop is so powerful I can barely hold on to the model under full power! Normally in an ACRO model, with full slider control on the throttle, there is a warning tone if you switch on with the stick up and the prop doesn't go. Anyone know the answer to this?

Cheers for the advice guys, I'm feeling a little less stressed about it now I've calmed down! T9 can get spare wings for about £100 each as well, so that could be a last resort.

A bit of a diversion from the last thread entry I know, but my Phoon had a "mid-air" with a Middle Phase today and has suffered quite severe damage to one wing. The impact sheared right through the foam wing of the MP and the impact to the leading edge of mine has split the joint and cracked the underside of the wing skin. I haven't started to strip things back to expose the full extent of the damage yet but wondered if anyone else has had experience of a repair to a mouldie wing. From an initial inspection it looks like there's some balsa in there, just behind the leading edge.. does anyone know the actual construction of this type of wing?