Engine Doctor

Classic , Old timer etc has surely got to be a model thats been out of production for 20 plus years or so ? In the case of VED and cars its 40 years . Many of us modellers must be in the classic or veteran era/bracket 😉 although Mature sound much nicer .

👍 Never give up .

Keep going Hillclimber . It can be an uphill struggle at times (sorry about that 😊) but its good to read and see others projects that mirror our own . Ive never made a complete engine but have made all the parts for restoations. Your posts are making my maching fingers itch ! Keep it up . When I started making pistons it was a very frustrating at times but gradually the success rate climbed . As for your old lathe , dont give up on that either . My lathe is a Myford ML2 model from between the wars I believe and has it own idiocyncrasies due to some wear but a new one is out of the question. I admire your persistance with the compound slide though , since buying a small milling machine mine never comes out of the draw as its too awkward in use . Keep going please as us older members of the "oily hand society" are getting fewer .

To prevent paint lifting from laminating film Im wondering if plastic primer will help. It used as a primer when painting car bumpers . I have some eo worth a try on the next build. The paint I applied to my Elf Biplane seems pretty good but i did use the matt laminating film

Hi Don the 97 oct fuel like BP ultimate or Shell V power although thry have to be sold as E5 dont contain ethanol .There is a sign on the pumps "suitable for all cars". Its still worth checking though as I believe the ethanol is mixed with the petrol when it deliveredto the prtrol station. Simple test is to mix with water . I still add the lucas fuel protector to my 25 year old car just in case. For my garden petrol tools and plane engines i just buy E5 supermarket with 5% ethanol and remove it with a water mix . I find that all my two stroke and my 4stroke mower run far better without any ethanol and no issues after a winter layup.

Glass is good but takes longer is messy and on a model like the AcroWot is it really worth it and tgen you have to paint it ? The new cheaper coverings are brilliant and cost effective . I use Rapid RC's covering as its a fraction of the cost of Oracover and miles ahead of the coverings offered by ripmax etc. Its your choice so do what you enjoy most.

Thats a pity Hillclimber. I was looking forward t9 seeing it run . Are the transfer ports opening ok ie piston not too high or low ? Is cranckcase compression ok as this is more important than cylinder compressìon on a two stroke ? If crankcase comp is poor then you will only get a pop now and again.

Dependingon what car you have the ECU usually doesnt regulate the charging. Its the BCM (Battery Control Module) that needs resetting . Some cars can be reset by pressing certain buttons but other need a OBD reset tool often combined within a code reader. Not a lot of money these days and after a couple of uses for code reading etc they pay for themselves as garages often charge an hours labour to plug it in and read any codes. The engine light or mill light is often refered to as an idiot lighf by some mechanics. Halfords charge £27 for fit and reset i believe !

For low use or hobby cars or cars on a SORN a maintenance / trickle charger is a good investment. Dont forget nealy all cars from the 80s onwards had a an alarm or built in computer that draws a few mah that will drian and damage a car battery after a few weeks . I have a trickle maintenance charger in my hobby car , costs around £20 uses hardly any power and keeps car battery healthy and ready to go and far cheaper than replacing battery.

Could you not mount engine on its side ? Picture of model would help .

Could the problem not be simply overcome by flying with the karts behind your flightline and a suitable distance between them and you creating a NFZ ? Obviously not being able to see the site there may be other obstacles .

Hi Rich . Dont forget to allow extra time for delivery as 20 mph will slow the post van 😉

He who hesitates Rodney , he who hesitates. Just buy them Rich postage wont break the bank .

Just change the socket to match the Futaba plug. Far easier , cheaper and more reliable than using an adaptor on an old socket .Also check the associated wiring as if the socket is corroded its likely that corrosion will have crept up the wiring . Just had to do a similar job on a car door plug and socket with 17 wires. Plug and socket unavailable without buying the loom costing £100's . Fixed using hollowed out original plug and socket with ñew pin and socket connectors fitted . Cost a couple of £'s.

Hi Jim . I have to disagree with you on using a large prop on a small diesel. The leverage from a large heavy prop can and will severly damage a small diesel if it hydraulic locks. Ive seen bent rods broken cranks,split pistons and even broken crank cases all from doing just that.