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Engine Doctor

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Engine Doctor last won the day on June 16 2021

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  1. Yes . A mate at our club did just that and elected me to fly it. He's done a few of these type of modelswith EDF power. I flew ok but was really quite quick. Be warned that the airframe needs stiffening as they distort when flown beyond their designed speed resulting in loss of control or flutter. Guess how I found out . Its been stiffened with carbon strip let in and now flys well and the 12 blade EDF sounds great. For best power fit induction ring and an efflux tube.
  2. I agree that the so called intelligent chargers are useless if a battery has gone a bit to flat ; whereas a constant current charger will often wake up a tired battery. Once damaged though the capacity never really recovers to original level. Gel or AGM seem to suffer far more than wet/ flooded type. I know it's off topic but Re the wet lead acid pictured above opened up. Do you realise it's now an offence to remove the sulfuric acid from the battery? Tip it down a drain and dilute is as far as I'm aware is ok but remove it to use for anything else like anodising for example and is an offence . I think it comes under the explosives act ?
  3. Its a scarcity price . If someone wants one and cant get it anywhwere else then the price goes up . Yes its greed in some ways and in my view silly to pay these high prices .As you say John , you can make them but its getting the parts , so technically they are not available . If you had the parts and they were on offer at a reasonable price then it would kill the greedy collectors overnight . But then you say you would make changes . Collectors want all marks including early versions warts and all so pay the price . Its a Collector thing . We regularly see ED Baby engines go for £70 upward. They were £2-19s-6d when I was a boy . even allowing for inflation thats still a good return . The sellers aren't forcing people to buy there wares so why is everyone getting so hot under the collar ? This seller obviously has a lot of money and probably pays way over the top but thats his choice . I find it ammusing but Just my view . If someone pays those sort of prices they deserve what they get . I'm sure if you got the bits made for some diesel Lasers they would fly off the shelves .
  4. That last post came up when I opened the forum as saved ? Dont know how it got posted again ? Perhaps it was " to be sure to be sure so it tis "
  5. Hi Christopher. No didn't bother bushing as many old diesels cranks run direct in alloy. Can always bush it if needed later but suspect it won't be necessary as it won't get too much running . Yes the crank is a horror but it works and is hidden from view. Will use it until it fails. As you say CS saved money by doing this. I suspect that this batch of engines commissioned by the late David Boddington were a small batch made very much down to a price both on time and materials. I'd call it a dodgy deal. They also made some twin cylinder millish engines. I'd like to take a look inside one of those !
  6. Thanks Outrunner. It has been assembled and runs ok. The anodising should just finish it off. I would like a bright green finish but have had a devil's job trying to find a decent green dye. The parts come out of the dye soak looking brilliant but as soon as they are put into the hot setting bath the yellow part of the dye seems to wash out leaving a faded blue finish. Yellow seems to be the sticking point. I bought one green anodising dye powder that cost big time for a few grams and that is a horrible shade of green. There are some very expensive dyes around but for the small ammount of anodising I do its just not worth the outlay. I have bought some bright green ink to try as one post I read somewhere said they had good results with it ? I'll try some test pieces first.
  7. Thanks Outrunner. It has been assembled and runs ok. The anodising should just finish it off. I would like a bright green finish but have had a devil's job trying to find a decent green dye. The parts come out of the dye soak looking brilliant but as soon as they are put into the hot setting bath the yellow part of the dye seems to wash out leaving a faded blue finish. Yellow seems to be the sticking point. I bought one green anodising dye powder that cost big time for a few grams and that is a horrible shade of green. There are some very expensive dyes around but for the small ammount of anodising I do its just not worth the outlay. I have bought some bright green ink to try as one post I read somewhere said they had good results with it ? I'll try some test pieces first.
  8. Hi Outrunner. I now have a collet set so will be using that in future . One thing I overlooked was that nearly all the cutters I have been lucky enough to have been given are imperial sizes but collet set is metric . Getting there slowly .
  9. Like you I have Many many engines and projects so wont be saving a Jen . But thanks for the offer .
  10. The last pics here show the polished case . The engine was test run prior to the polishing but left phone indoors so no pics !! NB. those of you who play with model diesels will know that you dont trespass indoors while smelling of model diesl fuel as it can be hazardous to you health if SWMBO is in the house ! so the pics were not taken . Later In the week I am going to aanodise the case . Not sure what colour yet , but pics as soon as its out of the anodising bath.
  11. Here the case has been fitted to the base and refitted in the lathe . The cylinder base mounting holes will be machined . for some reason I have lost or deleted the cylinder base being machined ! very odd. so pic of test fit of the cylinder. Note the top of the casehas been shaped to fit the profile of the cylinder while it was in the lathe .
  12. The next stage required some milling. I set up a milling attachment on my old lathe but it really was to cumbersome and time consuming . As it was Chritmas I convinced myself I really needed a Milling maching . So some bits and pieces were sold off and a MiniMilling machine was ordered . This is the csae being roughed out . I couldnt find any marking out fluid locally so I used a black marker pen so that the pattern could be scribed onto the work piece . The second pic shows the bottom of the case being shaped and excess alloy being removed . The series of flats were finally rounded by hand using a dremmel and a sanding drum then some fine grit paper on a board. Later it will be polished on a buffing wheel to remove the marks . Next I needed an alloy mount , third pic , to re mount the case back in the lathe as by now it was too delicate and its shape was to tricky to be held in a chuck. The mount seen in pic two was drilled and tapped for m2 cap heads to match the holes drilled in the lugs of the Crank casecase.
  13. The next stage was to turn the crank case internal space , then cutting the clearnce for the conrod and for cutting thr backplate thread. The second pic shows the thread cutting bit and the backplate thead being cut. I measured the thread at 32 tpi from the backplate and ground the boring tool to match the thread form . Once happy with that I test fitted the backplate and was pleasantly suprised to find it fitted perfectly.
  14. Some may remember that I melted a Boddo mills Crankcase recently while attempting to repair a crack that appered while it was in storage. Why this crack appeared I dont know but it seems to be a common fault . for those that are interested I thought a Blog of the process might be interesting. Ther will be some gaps in putting all of this on the forum as time allows . Please note this is my first attempt at anything like this so I waited until I had finished it before posting .............just in case . up until now I have only made diesel head conversions and the od bit for engine repairs and re-cons . Well after a long search and no cases are available I thought about making one . The first pic is the melted case. Fortunately the rear of the case and the cylinder mounting were not damaged so I could take measurements . I bought some 6063 ali barstock , enough for three attempts at making one . The hardest part was cutting a suitable length off the bar with a hacksaw . It wasn't this hard when I was younger ! The the second pic is the ali block with the front of the case turned down. The third pic is of the block having being turned around and crankshaft test fit in the drilled and reamed ali block. As you can see the crankshaft looks like its been turned from a piece of Re-Bar found on a building site from the marks around the crank web ! If all the CS engines ere like this I'm glad I never bought any
  15. Try sopme low temp brazing /solder . You canget rods that melt at 300 C so wont harm the case . Nothing to loose ?
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