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Mike Hardy

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Everything posted by Mike Hardy

  1. Thanks Phil, Up to now I have used a brush! Can you recommend an air brush kit not toooo expensive! What sort of air supply? Mike.
  2. I have now completed the fuselage covering with tissue bonded with PolyC see pics. Next question do I continue using PolyC to fill the tissue grain or use 50/50 none shrink dope/thinners. Regards, Mike.
  3. Hi Martin, got round the problem by doing the edges first leaving a 10mm return, then cutting the 'blank' slightly smaller. I usually use thinned PVA but had 500ml of PolyC in stock. The trick is to insure tissue to be stuck down is not coated with PolyC by accident. The result seems quite good, but have noticed it takes a long time to dry certainly not the 20mins quoted. I use dope after the tissue is bonded. I could never get on with bonding down wet tissue with dope. Have noticed the scalpel blades loose their edge quickly cutting tissue!! Mike.
  4. Hi all, Help with PolyC and tissue application I am covering the Tucano airframe with tissue and PolyC. No problems with application to flat surfaces but to get a bond around the edges is proving difficult. What I am finding is once the tissue is coated at the edges and dried it does not like to bond around the edge. I have to apply around the edge first with a strip then apply tissue onto the flat as a second operation. Hope this makes sense!! Any way around this problem? Mike.
  5. The airframe has received 1 coat of 50/50 sanding sealer and 1 coat of 50/50 dope, before moving on to the next stage I will conduct a pull test using Solarfilm silver on a sample treated as above and a further sample on bare wood. Martin what are your concerns? I am a little concerned to apply a water based adhesive (PVA 50/50) directly on to large area of untreated balsa given the distortion risk. I use 50/50 PVA (brush through) to bond tissue then several coats of thinned dope before the final acrylic finish. Nose wheel, I see that this has a smaller diameter? Mike. Edited By Mike Hardy on 19/09/2014 13:02:39
  6. Point taken BEB!! Martin I had not realised that these iron on films need to be applied to bare wood only. Thanks for that info - I will continue with tissue. It just goes to show how important these forum's are, we lesser experienced can tap into the knowledge of others who have a wealth of knowledge/experience. Mike.
  7. OK BEB - just contacted Solarfilm they say it contains an aluminium powder which 'may' affect radio signals, but not sure at 2.4GHz. They say best advised to put an antenna outside the airframe. - bit of a pain though. What is this Dawn Flyer? Mike.
  8. Hi BEB, Just one point, you state 'Solarfilm does affect radio signals' then you go on to say David 'He found it made no difference at all' bit confused here!! I have no problem with dope smell my shed is 17 miles from my partner's home!!. Have you rebuilt your Tucano? Mike.
  9. An interesting thought Martin, never thought of a composite solution - silver solarfilm on the flat panels and tissue on the complex shapes. one worry though with solarfilm the surface has to be 'prefect'. do you guys use an iron or hot ait gun to apply the film or both? I am Appling a sealing coat over the air frame comprising 50/50 sanding sealer rub down then a 50/50 coat of none shrink dope and final rub down, this provides a sealed surface to apply tissue using 50/50 PVA and water or silver solarfilm. Colin, I have had my fair share if warping on this particular project especially with the wing panels and that is just being left in the open for a couple of weeks!! Mike.
  10. Hi all, I am now in a position to cover the airframe (better late than never!!). I plan to use the Battle of Britain memorial flight colour scheme which means a paint job. As I see it (you master builders may differ) I have two routes - tissue and dope or fibre glass and PolyC. My preference is the tissue route because I have used this method many times. Some master builders on here have used the PolyC - I have the stuff but need to be convinced it is the better method. Your comments please. I am not a master builder so please be kind on the photo comments!!! Mike.
  11. Tucano exhaust stub I have taken some scale dimensions: comments please. Stub dia 17mm Stub length 34mm Position back from nose 96mm Wish me luck! I will try and make a pair from balsa Mike.
  12. Thanks Phil (congrats on your 'A' and Martin, do these stubs need to be hollow to aid cooling of the motor? Will post some pics prior to covering. Can I ask all you Tucano master builders to keep on eye on this thread as the next operation will be to cover and no doubt will be asking some questions as to which technique to use. Regards, Mike.
  13. Hi chaps, I have just posted a query on the Tucano 2013 general chat forum. Nobody has posted on there for sometime so I thought I would put a prompt on here. Exhaust stub/copper pipe. Regards, Mike.
  14. Hi All, remember me!! I have almost finished the build - bit late I know, I have one query the Tucano exhaust stubs. The use of 10mm copper tube bend fitting has been mentioned on this thread but I cannot find any reference can any body help please. Mike.
  15. Thanks Guys, firstly there are some great junior 60's shown in this thread, I am truly humbled by all you master builders who have commented. What concerns me is the possibility of adding 1.5 Lbs. of ballast up front to achieve a balance about the wing spar. the additional nose length should reduce this ballast especially if the li-po can be positioned right up front. I can do a moment calc. to give me some idea knowing the weight of the electric drive components. Another worry is for the apparent tendency (comments on here) for the wing half's tips to meet in mid air!! Now my wing is already built to the Ben Buckle plan so just how do I extend the dihedral brace into a further wing bay? without drastic surgery. Mike.
  16. Thanks Mowerman and Mike, do I take it I build the tail plane as per the Ben Buckle kit of 2012, bit confused here. Mike.
  17. Hi, Started this kit a couple of years ago and so far completed the wing and most of the fuselage. I have read of late on here that the rudder and elevator area needs to increase slightly to improve handling, does anybody have details of this mod. I understand the fuselage nose length needs to be increased by 20mm to help with the C and G when using modern (lighter) induction motors. Mike
  18. Thanks guys, I tried all sorts of glues and none seem to work. I like the tiny screw idea, unfortunately the canopy floor is substantially balsa which may mean any screw will not have sufficient bite to overcome canopy movement due to expansion/contraction. The Tucano canopy is quite large. Mike.
  19. Hi, perhaps some one can help here. I have tried all canopy glue types and they all fail as the ambient temperature rises. I have used: RC modellers Glue, Glue and glaze, Zap goo. All fail. The canopy material is abraded so is the balsa. I must be doing something wrong - but what. Mike.
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