Matthew Clive

Oops, you're right Steve; IMPORTANT !! The crankcase vent must be kept open to the atmosphere. This is NOT a pressure tap. It should not be connected to the fuel tank. Its purpose is to allow excess crankcase oil to drip out and it must never be sealed. It is convenient to connect about 4 inches of fuel tubing to this vent so that excess oil drips can exit outside the model; the fuel tubing is also useful because it is easy to squirt after-run oil into the crank-case through this tube. (see also the “Maintenance” web page). The only other thing I changed on the engine was the prop for the same same size APC from a wooden one. Maybe that has made it run better.

Finally cracked it! There is a pressure nipple on the backplate which i hadn't seen before, i plugged it up an now it runs up much better. It seems to have a LOT of pressure behind it because it forced the first bit of fuel tube off it when i first revved up the engine! This means i can hopefully fly the plane at greenacres this weekend. Fingers crossed! Edited By Matthew Clive on 19/06/2014 20:58:20

Turning the bottom end needle seems to have no effect on the running problem. I'm thinking that it might be a mechanical issue since it seems to grind to a halt rather than through lack of fuel. Also, the position the prop stops in changes each time it runs. i.e. when i put the prop on, its near vertical at TDC but after its run, the prop is say 10 to 4 position at TDC.

Thanks for the replies. Mr B - I'll have a go at turning out the bottom end needle later on today and see how it goes. It has already kicked the prop twice when it stopped. I'm running it inverted with a 500cc tank butted up to the firewall, clunk line is in line with the carb. Matt

Hmm...just started it up again an its not sounding very healthy at tickover either, a bit rattlely.

I'm trying to run up my saito 180 in a new model before a test flight. I got it on ebay second hand ages ago and i cant remember if its been run before or not tbh. I've warmed it up gently using a rich mix (3 turns out), let it cool and refired at 21/2 turns out and run it a big longer at tickover, which it holds no problem. Now i've come to power up and once it gets to half throttle it abruptly stops with a bump. It doesn't matter whether i blip the throttle fast to that point or open it very slowly, it gets to the same rev range and just stops. It does this at any richness setting so i'm thinking this could be a timing issue? What is going on please?

  Crazy! Edited By Matthew Clive on 07/01/2014 19:53:13 Edited By Matthew Clive on 07/01/2014 19:54:24

Sounds like the fuel isn't getting up to the glow plug. Try priming by putting your finger over the carb opening and turn the engine by hand about 5 times. Remove your finger and then apply the starter. If it turns over but still sticks, put your finger over the silencer exit hole while spinning the engine over with the starter, this will draw fuel up from the carb. Dont do that for too long though or you'll flood the engine which requires glow plug removal to blow the extra fuel out. You should find that the engine will free up when there is plenty of fuel in it. When it turns freely add the glow stick and it will fire. Also, make sure that the starter battery is fully charged up.

yes please

I think you'll have a hard time finding a power cable switch big enough to handle the current a lipo will be supply during flight. The other option of a switch on the receiver cable is not hopeful either because unless you unplugged the lipo, current will still flow through the esc and motor and within a few days completely flatten the cells...not good for lipos.

Unfortunately mine wont be ready in time, hopefully next year. Building it from an old svenson kit. Matt

I think its pretty much same thing. If you limit the downward travel for each aileron using EPA its the same as limiting it using the aileron differential function, just a different way of doing it. I think both functions are there for when you want to use flaperons and you can't mix flaperons and differential at the same time.

You take the capacity and divide by 1000 so you can charge the pack at 1.6 amps.which is the same as 1600mA. 1C means 1x capacity

I'm fortunate enough to have a big park at the bottom of the road, just walked there and had one of the best flying sessions i've had in ages doing touch and goes in the snow on these skis i bought a few years ago!

Me! I love saitos. I have a Saito 100 in my DR1 and a 180 in my svenson stampe. A guy in our club flies a funtana with an 82 with open exhaust which sounds awesome burbling its way across the sky.

Hey Masey, Yes come on down to greenacres, you can be sure of a friendly welcome and helpful hands if you need them. You'll be passing your A in no time!

When fuel comes out the breather pipe, its full. Fly till engine cuts then you know!

I dont think keeping motors in a cold garage should damage them at all. You will notice that batteries lose a larger percentage of their capacity if you store them charged and then give less performance when used in colder temps though. As you say, leaving an electric heater on all of the time unattended is probably not a good idea anyway. Edited By Matthew Clive on 29/10/2012 20:24:03

No change, well except for getting cold fingers!

Me too.

I dont buy any cheap glue from aldi or lidl. I find it just falls off within a few weeks use or not set hard at all. I've given up with this sort of stuff and always go for the proper named brands now. Edited By Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 20/10/2012 19:16:24

Posted by Sammyboyy on 04/10/2012 21:17:37: I want a stairmaster! LOL but i think you mean "stirmaster"!

Thats plenty big enough for the job in fact I'd say if you'd got anything a biit smaller to save weight then go for that instead. I had an ASP 46 in mine and it was as much power as you could possibly need. Matt

Posted by David Ashby - RCME on 03/09/2012 07:42:46: Posted by Matthew Clive on 02/09/2012 20:31:50: Really warm and sunny at greenacres today. Test flew my Yak 54 and smashed it to bits due to interference from the petrol ignition that was fine on the floor and during 5/6 circuits, never mind...ordered a 1/4 scale cub to put the bits in! Edited By Matthew Clive on 02/09/2012 20:32:13 Really Matt? Really sorry to hear that, this was on 2.4? Thanks. Yes on a genuine futaba 2.4 receiver.

Really warm and sunny at greenacres today. Test flew my Yak 54 and smashed it to bits due to interference from the petrol ignition that was fine on the floor and during 5/6 circuits, never mind...ordered a 1/4 scale cub to put the bits in! Edited By Matthew Clive on 02/09/2012 20:32:13