jrman

Lightly sand the inside of the cowl then use lightweight glass cloth applied with finishing resin (that I know you have).

Toto, Just looked back over some of your posts and noticed you used epoxy "finishing resin" and not epoxy adhesive. As the name says it's for finishing as a thin skin not as a primary adhesive. It will set but does not impart much structural strength. Your "micropore" tape looks nothing like the micropore I've seen. It's normally more gauze like in appearance and does not need scalpel nicks for anything to penetrate. Yours looks like "zinc oxide" tape (ZO on the box). Hope your materials give the result you want.

Send them an email and ask. [email protected]

Try http://fiberglassspecialtiesinc.com/catalog.htm. They do a F/G canopy but the shipping from the US may be expensive. I used their Extra 300 cowl and it is superb, probably the best moulding I have seen.

Yes a few of us still go to Brean every year and stay a John Fowlers. I believe I am the only person who has been every year from when it first started. It certainly has changed.

I have a couple of these and both have OS 120 FS pumped. I think a 61 2 st would be disappointing.

If you're using Imperial (UK) measurements a quart is 1.1365 litres.

Paul is wanting to clean out glass jars!

Cellulose thinners should work.

+1 for Mike Ridley.

Try Just Engines. They can supply engine mounts, test stands and fuel tanks (along with superb advice).

Same for me. Someone "fiddling" again?

I would suggest one from "Just Engines" . They do two versions depending on what size engines you have. Both are excellent and in my opinion better than the overweight, overpriced and over rated Sullivan. My Sullivan wouldn't even turnover an OS 200 FS whereas the JE turns it with ease.

Mine was also by "Jet Frog".

And me. £0.63

JR still produce TX's for less than £2,000 but the UK supplier doesn't seem to hold much of a stock, if any! I've been using JR since before it was available in the UK (bought my first set in Singapore) and have had excellent service except for one instance using a JR DSM2 DSX9 Tx which although made by JR used a Spektrum manufactured RF board where the problem lay. I also then continued with the "real" JR DMSS originally with an XG11 and later with a 28X. Keep the faith Peter.

Perhaps OS should have a new distributor as well, then we might have a better supply of spares and new engines!

I had that "rubber" coating problem on a couple of Panasonic cameras and managed to remove it with isopropyl alcohol.

The two baffles form a cross (X) and do not sit on top of each other. The exhaust tube fits in the outlet of the silencer with the crimped end preventing it coming out.

Did the paint smell of "pear drops"? If it didn't then it wasn't acetone.

Not a good idea to use acetone anywhere near enamel in my opinion. That link Jon doesn't list any thinners or reducers.

From my experience a suitable thinner for epoxy is iso propyl alcohol ( IPA) which shouldn't attack enamel finishes.

This is from Mar 2023 AS guidance : The model may be carried out to the take off position by the candidate or a helper or it may be taxied out from a safe position in front of the pits/pilot’s area. Taxiing out of the pits is an instant failure.

I glassed with 0.6oz/sqyd cloth and finish painted a BT P40 of approx 64" span achieving a weight gain of 4.5 oz. It was the only a/c I weighed both before and after but others were covered using the same technique so I would have expected a similar outcome.

No. The catalyst is platinum or sometimes a platinum / iridium alloy. One reason they are expensive.