GrahamWh

Thanks for the great engines over the years Jon and co.

Thanks Paul.

Thank you for your responses guys. A second 1/8 core at 90 seems sounds good Brian. I may get a slightly thinner foam bead , but will have a go with this one first I think. I had a look at my old tin of Evostick - a solid lump of rubber at the bottom so that needs replacing! Thanks for the link KC - wow loads of free mag downloads! Thanks all, Graham

Hello guys, Please could you give me some advice re making wheels? I am building a Peter Rake 36 inch Fokker DR1 and need to get the wheels done. The kit (from Belair) provides for each wheel two outer ply discs and a central balsa core. I have bought some foam rubber beading which I can glue into a circle for the tyre. The core is only 1/8 inch thick, the diameter is 2-7/8". I imagined that I would stick the core to a side piece, stick in the tyre, then add the remaining side piece, but the dimensions of the pieces seem wrong - the core seems too thin or its diameter is too small for the tyre to fit. Are we supposed to make the two side pieces really pinch the tyre or should I increase the core thickness to 1/4 or so to fit the tyre nicely? Alternatively I could get thinner tyre foam, but I think it would get hidden by the side pieces if I fitted it onto the gap provided by the side pieces and the core. I have searched various build threads for Peter Rake WW1 planes for clues but have not found the wheels construction covered. Thanks guys. Pics of pieces and the apparent problem attached.

Thanks for the link Mike.

Well thank you everyone - a wealth of information in your kind replies. I have ordered some doculam and tissue. The video is impressive David - if this model covers well with the stuff I can see myself buying a roll of it. I never knew you could print onto tissue MikeQ - amazing. Thanks again everyone.

Hello all, I have just bought a Peter Rake 36" DR1 Belair kit from Slec, and am having a bit of trouble deciding on what to cover it with. I have still not decided on a colour scheme, and suppose that a tissue covering would allow me to decide and paint it later. I have covered models in tissue before, but only smaller ones. Would tissue be okay with this 36" model, expected to need 150w to pull it and with an AUW of over possibly approaching 2Lb? What is the largest size of model that is safe with tissue? Thanks guys. DR-1 Fokker Triplane - Small electric scale range (belairdigital.co.uk)

Thanks very much for the reply David and taking the trouble with the pic of the weight you used. I will do similar. Your revision of the cofg makes sense ...that's more like where it was on a picture I saw of the plan of a BE2c someone had made. Great photos of the model...inspires me to keep going, thank you.

After a long break I'm looking at getting back to this build. I've been busy getting back into motorcycling and the never ending list of DIY jobs around the house! I am concerned about what the all up weight will be as I expect I will have to ad a lot of weight to the nose to get the CofG correct. Has anyone who has built a 1/6 scale Be2e or Be2c got any idea how much weight they ended up adding to the nose? I am planning on using a Laser 80. Thanks guys.

Its all very interesting, but I can see a couple of big problems with us all being forced to go electric with our cars. Lets say, for simplicity, that electric cars take 40 min to charge at a motorway service station half way through a journey. Petrol cars take 4 minutes to fill up. The services have maybe 15 petrol pumps. Just using these numbers to make the maths easy, but they are reasonable. If all the cars were to be electric, the same number of cars need ten times as long to charge as they used to to fill with petrol, so now the station will need 150 charge points and parking spaces to accommodate the same number of cars. Imagine the queues or the land needed to make 150 charging points easily accessible! Another - is there enough lithium to make batteries for X hundreds of millions of the cars that people have? Perhaps this will be a technology for the better of only. What do you think?

If anyone intends to carry on flying without registering they might be foolish to advertise the fact on a public forum.  Perhaps it could miss that option out.   Edited By GrahamWh on 17/05/2019 20:56:38

He has Glyn44. The pics showed up on a friend's computer. Fly Boy3, when the card is inserted, try going to "My Computer" and see if the card is recognised there, then go into into its folder if it is. It may be that auto-open is not working or set up to work. Otherwise, if the card slot itself may not be working try inserting in into a separate card reader that attaches to a usb slot on the laptop instead of the card slot you tried.

Thanks PatMc. So much lighter than solartex!

Am I right in thinking any model under 250g will not need the flyer to be registered? MIght have to go smaller and possibly even return to electric flying to avoid paying. As has been said on here already, it will soon be well over £16 as there is no way as many people as predicted will register.

Guys for comparison with the usual model films, what weight is something like 30 micron LF per square meter? And rather harder - what would be the weight of painted LF? I am building a BE2e and want to keep the rear nice and light but strong. I was going to use solartex but that's about 100g/m^2.