jimmy bond

New to building and the hobby in general.The Attila is a first build to gain some experience and its going ok.Got to the point where i can start to think of servos and placenent etc. The plan shows full size servos and i know things have moved on from there over rthe years. 3 servos are on plan but i intend to go elec so only 2 needed rud and ele not going with aileron.I understand being the type of model it is fast servos are not required but i have no idea how to choose the torq needed and size. any tips would be great.

thats the one Pat,To me it looks the same shape as the Proxxon but i can not see a weight listed for the proxxon.the draper and titan are 17kg,so half the weight.the scheppach i think will be too big for the space i have.

Sorry to carry on with this subject on a bandsaw purchase but i hope to get some feedback.I intended to get a Proxxon bandsaw knowing it as a good name ,i already have the smaller circ saw,which can be a bit underpowered,and not cheap.looking at other options i have seen a couple of new models.I do not know though if they are known to anyone here.first off draper have 2 i have seen,one can be had for around £90 the oyher £180,then i see screwfix do a saw by Titam which looks ident to the cheaper draper,gets a lot of good fedd back then at the end half a dozen really poor reviews.then i see a saw by a company called scehppach basato1 which looks like the proxxon but cheaper.The main thing with the titan was poor supplied blades and correct setting up.The reviews in gen said a new blade is needed slightly wider and go a tad longer 56 .5 and alls well but then the later reviwes said a 56.5 blade wont fit but many was using.the more i look the more undecided i get. if anyone as used the draper,titan or scheppach basato 1 any feedback is great.

Being new to flying and building the "if it looks right" approach is not ideal for me.got to the stage in a attila build where shaping is required and i do not know how much to round edges, TE/LE and TIPS etc. at the moment i do not know how much to bevel the ele hinge line.the plan looks like 45deg and very steep,that right? also are robart??? hinges a good way to do for beginner? a hole seems less to go wrong that a slot.

New to building and into a Attila build but have come to a area i have no idea in,shaping and profiles. The wing as a built up TE which i think came out ok,it can be left straight or scalloped.i was going to leave straight for ease of covering but it does look good scalloped.my Q is,is the TE left square or rounded at all for normal or scalloped? when scalloped the curved portions cut away will form a point where they meet,that must be hard to cover or is the points knocked off? lastly the ele is made from robust stock with a Thinner TE stock fitted because the ele is then profiled down at the back,in this case the ele is not paralel front to back the TE is angled,when i profile should it be paralel to the front hinge line OR follow the TE angle,hard to disscribe that one hope it makes sense.thanks

So would the Proxxon bandsaw be a good choice for the "spareroom builder" ?

PatMc,Mentioned cutting straight lines.I did intend to do this on the material the proxxon can not cope with and angled.Was mentioned a scrol saw is hard do to strait cuts.If i was to use a guide fence or rail are strait cuts possible because i think this might be 50% of the work

I am after getting a bandsaw and would like any advice on brand/model. I have recently got a circular saw and went for a proxxon,the smaleer of the 2 models,i would liked to of got the larger but the price was a facter,looking back i wish i went the larger because the one i have does struggle a bit with 1/8 ply and hard wood and it as no angle adjustment. Proxxon do a bandsaw and i have seen a simaler draper in size which seems more poweerrfull.but saying that i do not have the room for a large "pro" model.It will be used on the kitchen table when allowed and if not on the floor! with all precxautions taken.It will be mainly woods upto 1/4 max Any ideas?

Being a new builder i got by with with a small cork covered mfd board.suffered many warps untill i got a tip not to use pva.Any how i need a bigger board now and see posts recommending plaster board.could not see this working with pins untill i tried with a off cut i found.So i am going to buy a sheet and cut the size i want.Just wondered if you use it as is.is it truly flat or flat enough.i will be laying mine on a solid flat 2 inch mdf surface.Just wondered on the plasterboard it self.do i need to look before i buy.i have no idea if they vary or warp.any tips please.

It would be great if anyone can point out the errors.i am calling this a pratice build now.There are many areas i am really lacking in knowledge base.I might learn enough on this for my next build.But saying that i have been looking at build blogs/posts on various kits and see a build blog on a "BALSA USA" KIT. Slightly bigger than the Pup BUT the build manual i see in the posts is very detailed with pictures very thick and covers all stages.That might be the way for me to go.

Could not inc a second picture.i never seem to be able to get the second or third picture inserted easily.sometimes it works others it wont.

so had to sheet first rib bay at bottom and top.Did the bottom piece,1/16 scrap sheet,then came to doing the top with the curve.Think i should of done that first from underneath,cant see what i am doing from above if you get my jist.Decided to use a block.Sanded to almost final size,little more to go.did not take to long to do so no biggy.

I had a go at the first aileron last night and the spar tip pieces.I think the front spar piece went ok.The rear spar is angled slightly so i included that in the end piece also.Do not know if that was correct because when i then did the aileron LE i think the angle will be too much to carry and blend in???

Thanks for all the help guys,the pictures have really helped. Hugh you are correct,it is a DB pup E, And Dale is there a build thread on yours,that would really help me out. One last question,sorry! In my pictures i have cut the spars at the last ribs.I think the front was mentioned as being ok BUT it was mentioned the rear should of carried on to the tip. How would that work because the spar is higher than the tip piece 212,the only way it would contact would be to bend it and it is stiff ,spruce i think. David dia great Pete B, thanks for detailed reply. I am new to using forums and i did start a kinda build blog.i would like to inc all this in the build thread because i truely am a complete novice but i do not know if many guys would be klooking at that so any questions on the build i post here thinking more will see it and reply,perhaps none on the build blog if you get my jist.what should i do?

Pete,sorry some parts are clear but i still do not know how part 240 aileron le mates at part 212 wing tip? I presumed the spars ened at the last ribs because they are higher.again i presumed triangular blocks would run from spar ends to wing tips. picture above. Below is the rear of ribs cut to length to but with aileron le.outer rib was anglered at te slot (although i had placed the wrong side piece in the photo) to fit at tip. I have layed the aileron le on top of tip.Do i cut wing tip part there so the le runs straight across? Then chamfer from last rib to wing tip to form that trangular part i have to do for the spar tip section? Sorry about having to ask again.I think i can do a neatish job but i just do not know the method/secquench of the work. Also while the photo is here,the wing tip pieces are thicker than the TE,so it looks like it needs to be thinned to match the TE and get thicker towards front.Where should the full thickness start? at rear spar? midway or at front spar.On my plans a view of the wing tip side on is not shown. Rudder and ele are.