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Geoff S

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Everything posted by Geoff S

  1. Something's got to stop the roller running both ways and I expect it will be a pawl somewhere and probably engaging in a ratchet. Whatever the mechanism is, it would be interesting to know. Perhaps an eccentric device that relies on friction? Seems a clever piece of kit.
  2. My Gringo (and me) feature on the DB web site. It was an old kit that happened to be in my regular very old fashioned model shop with foam wings over 20 years ago. As I recall, it wasn't a brilliant flier (or more likely I was an even worse pilot than I am now!) and I eventually lost it in the rape crop planted at the side of our runway. It took me a couple of days to find it. IIRC it was powered with an Irvine Q40. I suspect Richard's (at DB) design works a lot better than my original, which Boddo himself denied having anything to do with when I mentioned it to him at one of the RR club's scale events.
  3. The Sinclair C5 was a disaster (like a lot of Clive Sinclair's products). At the time, I was regularly riding (and occasionally racing) a racing trike and was always hoping to see one so I could overtake it pedalling Someone did, very briefly, ride one to work and I just once saw one on the road when we were in the car. The C5 probably did more to put people off electric vehicles than the reverse.
  4. Of course, in the early days of motoring petrol wasn't easy to come by, much like charging points now. That's not so long ago. I knew a chap who lived in West Bridgeford, just outside Nottingham and when he was a boy he remembered a local who attempted to drive to Newark and back every Sunday and every Sunday he returned being towed by a horse! The first time he made it back under his own steam, everyone cheered It's early days for electrically powered cars but I think the infrastructure will rapidly expand to meet demand just as it did pre WW1
  5. Whilst that is fine if you're flying the model regularly (and fairly frequently), there will be a small battery drain as long as it's connected. If you're not intending to fly for (say) a few weeks, it would still be a good idea to disconnect the battery. Nevertheless, this is a stunning model.
  6. I see, it's effectively a freewheel mechanism with a rachet and pawls. I've taken a few of those apart in my time - occasionally unintentionally whilst actually riding the bike The only thing about the pedal cycle version is that it makes a noise when freewheeling as the pawl(s) are spring-loaded and rest on the rachet until you start pedalling (ie starting the engine in this case) and the pawl(s) engage on the rachet. It's certainly a lot less faff than either hand or external electric starters.
  7. Is the starter motor permanently engaged to the engine or does it disconnect like the old Bendix mechanisms on cars? I've always liked Lysanders since the days as a child we used to carve them from pieces of firewood - probably the only similarity to the full-size was the wing shape This one is a bit outside my price range - or at least the price range I'd happily commit to the air and enjoy flying but it certainly looks impressive.
  8. Torque has never been a problem with electric vehicles. The trolley buses I used as a child accelerated much faster than the diesel powered ones. IIRC a series wound brushed motor has maximum torque at zero rpm. The trolley buses replaced trams on the route where I lived and was one of the longest in the country, from Nottingham to Ripley - nearly 20 miles. For that reason they were called tracklesses. For some reason' they've now gone back to expensive and inflexible trams in Nottingham.
  9. We've paid for our solar panels after 10 years when compared with the now non-existent Feed In Tariff (FIT). Of course, the cost of any electricity we used during the day is also reduced (sometimes to zero). What the pay-back period, without the FIT payments, will be is more difficult to calculate. I'm just glad we opted to install them at a time when our savings were effectively reducing in value because the interest rates were so low.
  10. I used to do a lot of motorcycling. They were my only means of transport for years and I competed in trials both solo and sidecar. However, when we started sailing, we also started pedal cycling for fitness and we both cycle commuted - my wife about 12 miles/day and me 26, and sometimes 50 in summer on a nice day. I've now converted our bikes to have electrical assistance and get a range of 100km by only using the battery when necessary and, even then, at the lowest level I can manage. We have a diesel Vauxhall Astra estate but do very few miles. I think it will be our last car (we're both in our 80s) but I'd really like to go electric if we do change it.
  11. My oldest RC model is a Graham Bantock designed 1m model racing yacht - a Rhythm, which I built from a free plan in the early 90s after I had to give up dinghy racing. Not been sailed for years but I can't bear to part with it -the rig box is huge! My oldest RC aeroplane is a Flair SE5a which is the 3rd model I built (after a Precedent Electafly and a Global Trainer) in about 1994. It had an OS52 Surpass engine but I converted it to electric last year.
  12. I suppose we're lucky because our regular RM postman lives close by and has been on the round some years. He knows to knock on my workshop door if there's no answer at the back door (we don't use the front at all). He's brilliant. We're usually lucky with others too. I now no longer buy from the EU simply because it's so uncertain. A lot of the outlets supplying our specialist needs are fairly small and, as they have a huge market on their doorstep with no paper work needed, it's hardly surprising that they're really not particularly interested in our offshore island with its relatively small customer base.
  13. I couldn't agree more, Simon. A very good friend of mine was a senior engineering manager at Rolls-Royce and spent the last 3/4 years of his career setting up a manufacturing facility in Xian (where the terra cotta army is). Royce's are required and thus demand the highest standards of quality control and the Xian factory supplied it. China can rightfully be accused of a lot of bad things but engineering innovation and skills is not one of them. You only have to look at our own limited sphere of interest here. Sadly, my friend died of prostate cancer 3 years ago but there were some very complimentary emails read out at his funeral from his former Chinese colleagues and he visited several times after he retired.
  14. Never a problem with my very short base loaded aerial on my 35Mhz Mux3030. In some ways, a 35Mhz receiver aerial is easier to cope with than trying to arrange a couple of 2.4ghz aerials inside a model mutually at right angles. All you need is a hole to poke it through and attach it to the top of the fin or along the underside of a glider fuselage.
  15. The only really big advantage of 2.4gHz over 35Mhz is the removal of the chance of being 'shot down' by another transmitter on the same channel. That's particularly an advantage at model air shows, particularly one with trade presence and radio gear is being sold - and switched on. The rest is just 'nice to haves' like telemetry. I suppose sophisticated mixing facilities (eg OpenTX) could also work on 35Mhz. My old Mux3030 has quite complicated mixing on 35MHz.
  16. I built a Liddle Stik from a free plan back in 2020 so when I saw this Micro-Stik on eBay last week I gave in to temptation and bought one. It's nicely CNC cut kit with a clear CAD drawing. . The parts came well packed with a clear drawing. Within a day I'd built the 30" wing (mostly) I temporarily mocked up the fuselage on my magnetic building board. This isn't really a complete kit and there are a few minor issues - I suppose most are my personal preference. I've added inter-spar webs and I'm thinking about cap strips on the wing ribs. I haven't started the fuselage but I think I'll add triangular stock at the join of the bottom sheet and the sides as they're only 1.5mm sheet and the glueing area is small. If I do that, I can round off the fuselage corners to both to offset the extra weight and improve appearance. I assumed I had a suitable motor/esc somewhere in my stock but it seems not. I'm Ok for very light (indoor size) models as well as bigger ones but this need about 150/200 watts and the only motors I have are either much too small or too heavy. It looks like I'll have to buy a 1200 kv motor weighing around 70 grams - probably running on a small 1 AH 3S battery. The wing area is only 1.5 squ ft so it doesn't want to be heavier than 1.5 lbs ish.
  17. ARTFs are not quite so cheap now. I noticed earlier today that an ARTF Mk2 Wot4 (the wooden bare airframe that can be either electrically or glow powered) is now well over £200 (£224 IIRC). I bought one about 3 years ago from Kings Lynn Models and it was £109 plus postage. The price has more than doubled. Fortunately, mine's still going strong.
  18. My password is very simple. I use the same one for most model sites because I couldn't care less if it gets hacked (financial passwords are a different matter, of course ). It's just 4 lower case letters (the initials of my club) followed by 4 numbers - so 8 digits, just letters and numbers. ie nothing fancy.
  19. I replaced the motor shaft on my Acrowot Foamie quite a few years ago (the reason is almost too embarrassing to describe) and I don't remember its being a problem. I can't recall how the prop driver fitted but I assume it just clamps onto the plain shaft like a collet. I can't recall seeing a threaded motor shaft on any brushless motor. The only threaded part of a prop driver is the bit where the prop fits and is on either the collet attachment or on a fitting that bolts onto the rotating case. In your case, I'd swap the shaft rather than fly it with a bent one with the resulting vibration.
  20. Just noticed this, so I may be a bit late to the party. The kv is not an indication of power. It's just a measure of unloaded rpm/volt. The power is a function of the prop you fit and the current drawn from the battery (and its voltage). A 1000 kv may spin at 12,000 rpm with a 3S LiPo (approx 12 v fully charged) which is quite good with a 12x6 prop. Note, figures are approximate and probably over simplified. In fact, higher powered motors generally have a low kv to allow for higher voltage batteries and bigger props. One of the most important motor specifications is the continuous current draw - going over that for any length of time lets the magic smoke out
  21. Compression reducing pistons aren't exclusive to 2 strokes (though the only Bultaco I owned was an old trials bike). I had the same problem with my 1953 BB34 500cc BSA Gold Star (a very rare model, I wish I still had it) and I still have one of the holy pistons to prove it. The cure was to replace the aged Amal TT carb with an Amal Monobloc. It seems, from the other replies, carburettor replacement is the answer in both cases
  22. A pro cyclist can keep up about 400 watts on a climb for a while and a lot more in the last 200 metres of a sprint stage, for comparison. That's an interesting site. I see it doesn't include Solar as an energy source and that's what's powering my PC right now.
  23. As Pat says, you've checked your tacho's calibration (assuming your mains frequency is 50Hz - it used to be varied for load shedding purposes, not sure if that's still the case). If you want to check rpm indoors, as I do with electrically powered models, then use a torch as the light source.
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