Geoff S

I think I'd want more than £9 to take it off his hands and into the bin Geoff

Posted by Chris Barlow on 21/01/2016 01:26:53: Quite a bit lighter than mine then! Still got the leading edge to fit as well! I reckon my wing will weigh about 450 grams bare including the undercarriage blocks and servos but not the undercarriage itself. It's just under 360 right now with a bit more sheeting to do on the second wing and less 40 grams for the 2 servos. I was wondering just why the wing was taking me so long until I did a mental addition of all the different bit of wood that need cutting out glueing together - it comes to around 200! Still, nearly done now and then I can get onto the interesting bit - the fuselage. I find wings a bit tedious but also a bit stressful because it's so important to get them right which is why I always get them over first. Good job I like sticking bit of wood together even though I make a lot of mistakes. Geoff

Matty, isn't that the same stuff Paper Aviation used for the Regal Eagle and the Eezee Peezee trainer? I have an Eezee Peezee I bought part complete at a swap meet and that's mostly constructed from paper covered foam. No idea where to buy it from. Unfortunately the postage costs from the USA make buying from Flitetest impractical. Geoff

Posted by Martyn K on 13/01/2016 20:34:32: The problem with the SLEC uprights is that they are a bit flexible. I manage with them but I usually end up banding opposite uprights together to keep them vertical Still a very useful tool though. Martyn The plastic clamps that SLEC sell fit the Fuselage jig uprights so perfectly I think they must have intended them to be used to help the uprights stay vertical. Geoff

I've always used 2mm bullets for smaller batteries when the current draw was going to be lower than about 20 amps. They seem quite tiny when compared with their 4mm brothers. Geoff

They closed the one in Beeston, Nottingham last year with no notice to the staff. A couple of vans turned up and the contents of the shop loaded up and that was it. Now all the model shops I used have closed and I have to buy everything mail order (usually via the internet) or on my rare visits to a show. The Hobbystore branch in Beeston was well staffed by knowledgeable and friendly blokes. I'd only started using it when the shop I used most (AJ Models in Pilsley nr Chesterfield) finally closed. I'd been a regular customer at AJ since it opened. That was great because I was able to have a pleasant bike ride to buy stuff that wasn't too big as it was only about 12 miles along generally quiet roads. Geoff

John, if you're going to land and complete a flight (ie not a touch and go) why carry all the extra weight? Unless you need it to get the CoG right (as I have to do with one of my electric conversions) it would be better to use a smaller, lighter battery and recharge/replace each time. That has the advantage that you know the battery state every time you fly. Otherwise, as the others have said the motor/esc doesn't 'know' how big the battery capacity is as long it's the right voltage, which, if they're both 2S, it is. Geoff

That's annoying, Pat. I've just completed an order form the HK International warehouse for a Frsky non-EU receiver and was looking for something extra to make up the order. Those adapters and the tool look to be the ideal solution for those of us who find gripping small connectors not as easy as formerly. I'll definitely get some on my next order, thanks for the heads-up. Geoff

Well, Dave, whatever connector porn that turns you on MattyB: What I meant was that if one side of the connector is firmly attached to the fuselage then the other other half can be plugged in one handed whilst holding the model with the other. There seem to be a bracket with an XT60 connector on the HK web site which could be used to the esc for main battery connection or, perhaps, as a connector for an arming plug. A connector doesn't need to have a high insertion force to be reliable. You can have a clip which both secures and tightens it. Multipin connectors often work like that - eg processor sockets on PC mother boards or aircraft grade connectors (Canon) but they tend to be expensive, probably too much so for our LiPo plugs. Geoff

I managed to find a FlySky module to fit in my Taranis (JR fitting) at Aliexpress a couple of years ago. I can't remember how I paid for it but there were no problems so I guess I used PayPal as I've never heard of AliPay. Never dealt with them since despite getting an email/week which I always delete, usually unread. Geoff Edited By Geoff Sleath on 21/01/2016 09:51:49

I didn't know that. Those exclusions are just about the same as the ones I would choose. Thanks Robin, I'll give it a try. Geoff

It must be an age thing, Phil. I was beginning to wonder if I imagined a time when a plug had pins and sockets had ... err ... sockets. You're probably right that it's a US disease that's spread across the Atlantic, though it could have originated across the Pacific, I guess. It does make life complicated, though. Of course it goes without saying that we are right Anyway, I received a batch of XT60 connectors this morning but I'm putting off the solder-fest until the bench is clear. Am I right that they are rated at 60 amps continuous current? Not that I'm likely to draw that much for more than a few seconds - 30 at most and that rarely. They seem to very hard to pull apart. One of the reasons for my change is that you can get connectors that fit in a mount that can be fixed in a convenient place so that I could both fit and remove one handed or perhaps have an easy to make arming plug. They seem to need less space as well. Geoff

I've missed the Nats for the past 2 years because holidays intervened but when we go we camp very close to the hanger on the airfield side of the peri track (originally because I was involved in the indoor flying in the evening). That's also very near to the control line circles so we get the noise but that's part of the power nationals. I'm not much of a noise freak but even I git a thrill when I heard the incredible noise of the pulse jets that was almost deafening from 400 metres So I very much agree with Chris (ceejay). However that's not the problem The real problem is finding somewhere to hold any sort of power nationals as Barkston has been closed for us. I suspect it's likely to be closed for good so a new venue with a sympathetic owner/manager/CO is vital. I don't care where it is but I'll be going if at all possible and dates don't clash. Geoff

Not a blow by blow build but here's a brief update. I've built one wing just about completely and I'll probably have the whole wing finished this week built more or less to Peter's drawing including his building method. One little problem I found was that after planing the chamfer for the aileron l/e there wasn't much of the top capping strip left, so I replaced it after glueing some 1.5mm x 1.5mm strip between the ribs to support it better. The problem is that the aileron is so thick and the leading edge material so slim at 6mm there isn't enough meat for a 90 degree angled chamfer so you just have to judge the optimum angle with the material available. That's a pity as my plane has a nifty attachment that allows you to plane at 45 deg accurately which makes perfect control surface chamfers with narrower material easy to achieve. It's not a serious problem at all but when I build the second aileron I'll set the top capping strip a further back and fit the support pieces right from the start. However, I needed to get the servos for the ailerons to complete the wings and I've opted for these from Airtek. They're metal gear, ball bearing and are specified to have 3.3kg cm torque (about the same as a standard Futaba 148). They weigh only 20 grams and are much smaller than 148s. They have brass(?) servo arm splines and secure the arm with a 2.5mm machine screw (though one of the 4 I bought had a 3mm screw which I've replaced from my stock). They take standard Futaba servo arms from what I can tell - they have 25 splines and the Futaba arms seem to slide on OK. They look quite good. I tested them using the servo test facility on my iCharger. They all centred very consistently and moved smoothly over =/- 45 degrees with 1mS to 2 mS pulse width (1.5mS centre) but could be pushed much further to +/- 60 degrees without a problem. They would go to +/- 90 degrees but they weren't too keen on the last 5 degrees so I didn't push it. This was all off-load testing so how they'll behave in real life is still unknown but they seem to be really good so far. What servos are others using? Geoff Edited By Geoff Sleath on 19/01/2016 15:01:21

I've had my 120 watt Henley Solon soldering iron since Big Ben was wrist watch and it works well for soldering 4mm bullet connectors because its mass is large enough for the temperature to remain constant. It was big enough to repair vintage motor cycle fuel tanks (specifically my 1932 Scott). I used to us my 60 watt (IIRC) Weller temperature controlled iron with a 700 deg F bit but it wasn't quite as good and it's now gone to the workshop in the sky. I may try my newish Precision Gold 60 watt temperature controlled iron on the XT60s because of the plastic casing which isn't a problem with 4mm bullets. And I wouldn't let lead-free solder anywhere near any electrical connections I solder. It's 60/40 lead/tin all the way for me. Geoff

If nothing else, John, it'll be good for business with all those replacement engines Geoff

Posted by Ernie on 18/01/2016 09:01:44: A big no no Sand and water don't mix with electronics and fiddly wee bits ernie Whilst you're right, flying off hard sand below the high water mark shouldn't be a problem if you do some basic maintenance after your flying session. What I never fancied was sailing a model racing yacht in salt water because the hull's underwater half the time if it's windy. It was bad enough washing down our dinghy after a week's racing on the sea. I'd second a Multiplex Fun Cub but they're not a buy and fly the same day ARTF foamie.  There's quite a lot of work (and expense) over and above the initial purchase. Geoff Edited By Geoff Sleath on 18/01/2016 12:38:18

Thanks to you both. I'd hate to spend a day soldering and then find my batteries were different from everyone else's. Rob: I've been involved with electrical connectors all my long life but the concept of what constitutes 'male' and 'female' seems to have changed. How can a connector be described as 'male' when it clearly has sockets? Not your fault btw because I've seen similar descriptions applied to servo plugs which to my mind are definitely 'female' and the connectors on receivers are 'male'. At least you do clarify that the male connector has sockets Thanks again. I'll get the big 120 watt soldering iron warmed up. Geoff

I'm seriously considering having a solderfest and changing over to XT60 flight pack connectors from the 4mm bullets I've been using for years. I don't want to end up with my own private convention so can anyone tell me what polarity and gender battery connectors are, please? I think the polarity is indicated and I'm guessing the female (ie sockets) are on the battery. Annoyingly all the battery pictures at HK have the connectors pointing the wrong way. Thanks Geoff

I quite like watching snooker. It's about 1000% more interesting than darts but that's damming with faint praise Actually I stop my Eurosport subscription in the winter because there's no cycling. Just waiting for the spring one day classics then the Giro. And of course the odd day up at the field. I used to go to work, you know. Geoff

There's a drawing error on the tip rib. It's too big by 5mm. I think the bottom one may be too small. I'm guessing another 'improvement' of Peter's original Geoff

I'd also recommend Modelfixings for a reliable source of decent quality bolts at a reasonable price in small quantities. Geoff

Posted by AVC on 17/01/2016 12:55:27: Hi John The photo below is one of my tip. The height of the tip rib and the triangular support are not the same, the rib is higher and it shouldn't be I've been pondering the wing tips, too. I noticed that the tip rib is bigger than the cross section at the main spar. I think it's another modification introduced after Peter released his drawing. The height on the cross section is 10mm and rib is 15mm. I intend to adjust the tip rib height to suit the tip brace by slicing 5mm off the bottom. Geoff

As I see it the reason for 2 bolts is because it isn't a single one-piece wing as you build it. It's a lot easier to have a bolt in each side than try to contrive a single bolt through the part where the 2 wing sides are joined. Of course, if you were really determined to have just the single bolt you could have it in one side only Suffice to say I'll stick to a single dowel and 2 bolts which will probably be 5mm/2BA nylon. I note that Peter suggest fitting some brass tube to hold the wing dowel so that it can be replaced at the field if there's an acrobatic rather than a ballet style landing which results in its being broken. In my vast experience of acrobatic landings I find that if they're so severe that the dowel breaks then there's always a lot more needs to be replaced/repaired than the wing dowel I'm thinking of making the fuselage sides in 2mm liteply (which I happen to have in stock) and not bothering with doublers. It's a 48" length which means I can easily extend the sides to a more forward firewall to accommodate the electric motor. I'll probably cut lightening holes in the rear fuselage if I do that. IIRC it was how Precedent constructed the Hi Boy trainer. Not sure about the relative weights but it's just an idea as I build the wings. Geoff Geoff

It will indeed, Mouse and no other flux necessary. Geoff