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Clive Hall

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  1. I have been spraying models with cellulose since about 1948, airbrushing more recently with art acrylics. When it comes to cleaning equipment used with acrylics I find household ammonia works well. If a paint is soluble in ammonia then it can be useful for slight thinning.
  2. Barry and Mike both have it right. My biggest problem was that nothing I could do would make the Taranis respond. Companion could not get through to it, and whether I turned it on normally or with the three finger boogie all it would give was the plain white screen and continuous buzz. Anyway, problem about solved. It is more or less working again. I went back to the PC running W7, loaded companion 2.0, attempted to restore 2.0.17 and ended up with it working again on 2.0.20. Don’t ask me how. The Haptic keeps burping intermittently but not enough to be troublesome, and the SD card is empty, so there is work to be done, but the end is in sight. Many thanks to everyone who pointed to solutions, they really saved the day.
  3. I am in Cheddar, Somerset, 20 miles south of Bristol.
  4. B.C. thanks for the pointer to the video; I did follow it EXACTLY, made sure the STM32 BOOTLOADER was in the right place, made sure that I selected Taranis Plus, and it all went precisely in step with the video until I clicked on ‘Write firmware to radio’. At this point the progress box outline appeared, empty, then after a short time the progress bar appeared. However it ran across the screen instantly and was immediately covered by a box stating ‘Could not check firmware from radio’ with an ‘OK’ button just below. When I click OK it all disappears and returns to the ‘Write firmware to radio’ page. I can not make it progress beyond that. I tried reading the firmware from the radio and there is something there. Saved it, looked at the contents in Notepad, saw references to 2.1.9 among all the code. If I try turning the radio on it still gives the blank white display panel and the Haptic will not stop until I switch off. I am baffled. Perhaps I should give up on 2.1.9 and try to reload 2.0.20 – does this make sense? I am using a Windows 10 PC this time, perhaps that is the problem. I am inclined to go back to Win7 and try the older firmware.
  5. I apologise if this is an old question, but I have not found an answer yet. I have an early Taranis which I have easily upgraded from 2.0.20 to 2.1.9 , direct PC connection with it turned off, using Windows 7 Pro. I had a bit of trouble getting a copy of dfu-util.exe into the right folder but once that was done it took only a minute to flash the new firmware. I repeated the exercise with no problems on another two Taranis for friends. Then I acquired a Taranis-plus which had 2.1.6 on board. I tried the same flashing method but failed to remember that a Taranis-plus would not accept the Taranis firmware. It didn't. Now all it will do is light up the display plain white, and the Haptic vibrates continually. Some voice comes through from an earlier model when I move a stick, so an eeprom must be there. The STM32 BOOTLOADER is present so I tried to write 2.1.9 for a Taranis-plus with the battery removed and a direct connection to Win-7. It appears to begin to write the firmware but then a message appears "New firmware is incompatible with the one currently installed". I do not know what to try next, so help would be most welcome.
  6. I had a particularly good experience recently with Pegasus models. I ordered some Koverall on line, and then remembered a propeller I should have included in the order. A few minutes later I placed a second order, wishing I had remembered it in time to have to pay only one postal charge. Later that day the phone rang – it was Pegasus, who had spotted that two orders were to go to the same address. They also said the prop I wanted was out of stock so they suggested an alternative that they considered better, and at a lower price. They further said the two orders would be in one package, and later I received refunds for both the less costly prop and the difference in postage. Pegasus is now my first choice when ordering on line.
  7. First there was the Algebra 8 with bulbous front end and plug-on wings – I made all Sean Bannister‘s F3B fuselages, then he designed the smaller wooden fuselage model which I think one of the magazines published as a plan. John took over and produced the glass version for Dick Edmonds. Neither design was anything like the mystery moulding.
  8. My post on 26/06/2017 was only to give you an idea of what that rib family looks like, I did not think of it as having any practical use. What you need is a paper print of this file, or even a .DWG or .DXF file by email. What you suggest is really doing it the hard way. Here is a revised version of the ribs, all separated and including a 2mm skin thickness to reveal a true shape for cutting. Or I can post you a full size print on paper – very easy to do.
  9. Clive Hall

  10. I changed a few input numbers slightly - I think this is closer to the original drawing:- The ribs can be printed individually on a larger file with skin thickness and spar slots, which can then also be used for laser cutting.
  11. Clive Hall

  12. Steve, I have generated two possible rib sets for the Stuka. The lower one has a symmetrical tip section, the upper one a non-symmetrical tip. Also there are slight differences in the root section; any combination or adjustment is possible. These ribs may differ slightly from the drawing, but they will fly the model.
  13. Clive Hall

  14. Steve, I have a software solution to this problem - did you get my PM, with details?
  15. I checked with John Hall this morning (I’m his dad) and his terse comment was “Nothing to do with me”. Sorry, but I can’t help beyond that.
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