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Peter Garsden

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Peter Garsden last won the day on March 3

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About Peter Garsden

  • Birthday 16/08/1957

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  1. Great write up once again Phil. Well done.
  2. Quite agree. No pictures of the brave mountaineers who rescued my Sabre from down a vertical cliff. I am going to recommend them for a Pride of Orme award!
  3. Panel Lines - mm...yes, not easy. A lot of measuring, and marking with a pencil then rubbing out the mark afterwards. There is a particular brand of Staedler Pen which dries very quickly and is 0.5mm wide methinks, which works best. I use a combination of a flexible plastic ruler which works best. Although you can spend hours lining up with measurements, your eyeball is the best. For round bits I used balsa templates, and for curves, I use the good old french curves. The main problem is marks with the permanent pen that enable you to line up the lines. For long lines down the wing I use a metal ruler. I think this is the link to the type of pen I use - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Staedtler-Lumocolor-Permanent-318-9-0-6mm/dp/B000SHQBA8?th=1
  4. I have sanded off the excess microballoons and smoothed down the outside of the canopy, then the dreaded job of the Acetone to scoop out the blue foam and pull off the parcel tape. Much easier with this small mould than a whole fuselage from the inside, I can tell you. Came out easily leaving a smooth inner surface I then had to cut a circle out for the motor and spinner. I matched up the old cowl, and drew a line round the hole as a guide, then used these router tools in the dremmel/Proxxon I finished off with the round Permagrit file which worked a treat. I usually used 2 layers of 160 gram then a final layer of 80 gram, however as this part is likely to take some hammer I went for 3 layers of 160 gram. After all I only have to add lead round the inside of this, so?
  5. Absolutely Matty, it all started for me with a Paul Janssen plan of an Alpha Jet, and I did indeed use the spray, but only for the first layer methinks. The problem is wetting out the cloth enough so that it sticks, and avoiding the cloth underneath the fuselage from dropping off. As the bottom of the cowl is open this isn't fortunately a problem for me hence why I didn't use that method.
  6. Through the door into the study Dresser with vinyl cutter on bottom shelf. Kitchenette and drinks fridge! with microwave and kettle, but no water yet, toilet in corner through door. Final view of bench showing shelving above - does anyone want to buy some surplus cork tiles for £20? I box of 600 x 150
  7. Close up of machines bench and electrics bench just in view with chargers, soldering iron shelves above with transformer for hot wire etc NB Spitfire Calendar Electric bench in close up with Spitfire in foreground in middle of fiberglass canopy construction. Rafters for long items - galleried ceiling so rafters had to be specially supported. Cradle for C of G hung in middle on strong support beam. TV in background and hot wire cutters hanging from wall up the stairs to mezzanine floor for plane storage. Also note shelf above bench, below to hold bench LED fluorescent lights all the way round Bottom of stairs, storage for sweeping brush and velux opening pole and hanging for flying rucksack Under stair storage and shelving. At the moment this is for scrap wood. In the corner is a box of wood and plans for a Chris Williams Slingsby Petrel which is my next build and arrived today by DHL To the left is the door into the study and kitchenette Top of the stairs showing plane storage and a carpet to save on knees Top of stairs looking down on workshop and showing rafter storage Mobile workbench showing casters and scrap box underneath. The top has a 8mm layer of cork tile. Question is how long will those shelves remain empty?
  8. My New Workshop. I have finally got round to taking some pictures of my new workshop, which is housed in a very well insulated new double garage, I have had built next to my bungalow. It has 3 large Velux Skylights and dummy garage doors in case anyone wants to convert it back into a garage in the future. It comprises 2/3 workshop and 1/3 study with a kitchenette, and toilet. Main bench with shelving for glues etc, and shelves for most tools. At the far end are some wood supports for clamps, and a divided box for balsa, ply, fiberglass cloth and covering material. The entry door is behind me. A view slightly to the left showing the middle mobile bench which I bought as a kit from Arbor Garden Solutions who advertise on Etsy. It is on casters and can be moved round the workshop to suit. To the left is my covering and finishing bench with shevles and a cupboard from the original workshop with fiberglass and covering material in the drawers. A closer view of the left bench showing the tools bench containing Pilar Drill, Sanding disc and belt from Axminster Tools model range, Dremmel Fret Saw, and model circular saw. In the background one can see the pegboard I bought with accessory tools. I bought a sheet of 8' x 4' 6mm thick. At the far end is my covering and finishing bench with relevant tools like hot gun, and covering iron. There are double sockets every metre all of which I will use. Close up of covering bench with extra lamp, rattle cans, airbrushes, mixing pots can for melting lead jug for washing out airbrush when done, overflow pot, and under the bench my compressor
  9. Well 3 layers of 160 gram fibreglass cloth later it was time for a final coat of resin and micro balloons mix. I find that it is important to coat the mould first in resin before applying the cloth, and dabbing resin on top with emphasis on the dab. If you try to brush it will disturb and drag the cloth out of shape. The coat needs to be thick enough not to run when applied but not too thick to prevent spreading over the cloth.
  10. First layer of 160 gram fibreglass cloth on with additional strength from some carbon tows and ribbon
  11. Well, the blue foam shape is now wrapped with brown parcel tape, which I then ironed down flat with my Solarfilm Iron. The plan is then to add a layer of wax, but when I got out the tin it had dried out, so I have put it on the radiator to thaw out. No doubt there is a fluid you can add to moisten it up? Turpentine apparently but not so straight forward - https://gillysaustralia.com.au/blogs/gillys-blog/how-to-soften-up-hardened-furniture-wax You can see here the finished mould sitting on a support. When applying the fibreglass you have to have 360 degree access with the brush, so I made this balsa stand which will be clamped to the bench. The cloth will be in strips on the sides with a disc on the top and overlap. It will drape over the bottom edges then be trimmed when dry with a Dremmel. Obviously I used 3mm balsa scrap which I wedged into the receptive hole for size
  12. Thanks for the workshop thread Early Bird. Will post when I have done some photos. Nearly finished now. Back to the cowl. I made a start on a blue foam inner mould today using a combination of my foam cutting pen, Model Belt Sander, Japanese Pull Saw, Permagrit Rough File, and Sanding Disc with holes which is brilliant. Here are the pictures I drew round the existing cowl then sliced bits off with the Japanese Saw I had to cut out an internal hole for the engine mount so marked up the foam I used my home made foam cutting pen which is 2 pieces of wire bound with tape between a piece of balsa capped with 2 inserts from a 13A Plug and some nichrome wire inserted in the tip. Wires connected to the ends then attached to the transformer - Fashioned with the Permagrit file Next job is wrap it in Parcel Tape, and wax it, and mount on something suitable to wrap around the fibreglass bandage and resin. Watch this space.
  13. Have not been modelling for a while because I have moved workshops - what a marathon - years of stuff to throw away and box up. Is there a thread for showing your workshop, which I know would interest me. I have had a double garage built which is 2 thirds workshop and 1 third office. Might be of interest? When I moved, I was part way through redoing the balancing of the hybrid slope soarer and power model. Stupidly I thought I could just fill one spinner with lead for soaring until I realised that for power I could not do the same as the spinner would ping off under load - what a twonk! So I set about working out how much lead I would have to squeeze inside the cowl and it was huge - more than I can fit in without fowling the motor, so.. here are the pictures of the removed cowl and the amount of lead needed I am going to make a lost foam cowl out of fibreglass. I can then much more easily remove the cowl with screws and glue in strips of lead. I figure it won't be too difficult.
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