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Jon - Laser Engines

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Jon - Laser Engines last won the day on January 7

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  1. I have not seen that cream cheese issue as you describe it but i have found a chalky/crumbly white residue in carbs, inlets and on piston crowns on engines returned after running this fuel. It makes a right mess inside the engine and often jams the valves open. Its strange as the description you give is almost like water emulsion, like when the head gasket leaks on a car and the oil turns to mayonnaise. Perhaps it will dry out over time and turn into this powdery stuff?
  2. Not sure, but i think opti are keeping the MT brand going as it has a loyal customer base and the products are well known. How that relates to their trade stands i cant say.
  3. Waston fuel's are not compliant with the Laser warranty spec and i will not support any warranty claim on our engines if that fuel has been used. It always causes arguments when i say that and i have explained it many times before. The fact of the matter is we arent satisfied with its quality or performance and dont recommend it. As for ML70, i really have never understood the hate it receives. It seems to be considered the red headed step child of oils and i have no idea why. Perhaps you can enlighten us Jason? What specifically makes it so bad? On the subject of fuchs oils many of my customers in Germany have used different ones they make and some of their oils do not work well in model engines. Even the best brands of oil can produce products not suited to a given application so just to say its from fuchs so must be good is a rather ridiculous...especially when we are not sure if that is actually what they are using.
  4. yep, in the same way that kevins 61 is .61 cui. All glow engines are measured in cui so a 90 is .9, 120 is 1.2 etc
  5. Hi Bill, yep we can arrange another. If the stampe is a long way off i may put you on the list for round 2, i will see how things go with this first lot
  6. Yea i have thought about all that sort of thing but its not a nice thing to have to do. Ultimately it is a help to me that people buy these pre production engines and i am asking them for assistance with feedback etc. To hold their money ransom feels a bit off. Its also a pain in the backside to do the admin and it leaves the door open for arguments about how much feedback is sufficient to get their rebate. Nothing is ever simple
  7. Yep, got my dyna and duraglo mixed up. Dont recommend either though so its a wash really
  8. Its been a long time coming but the next batch of pre production petrol engines are getting closer. I hope to have 5 ready by the end of the month with more to follow if there is sufficient interest. My current list of interested parties is so out of date i am going to abandon it and start again. The engines are 30cc and offer the same performance as a 180 glow. The idea behind this is to get feedback from customers on problems they have so things like instruction sheets can be updated for production engines. For this to work the engine needs to be actually used. This is where our testing fell over last time as only 3 of the 10 engines were ever used. Since then i have built 3 more, which are in use, but its still not a good ratio. If you suspect you cannot get the engine into a model and flying for this coming spring i would ask you not buy one until testing is completed as i really need air time on the limited number of engines that will be available. I also ask that you only buy an engine if you actually want one to use and not just because it is new and shiny or you want to do me a favour. If you have been dreaming of 30cc petrol engines then great, if not then its fine. The type of model flown is not important. Sport, scale, whatever. As long as its a model you enjoy flying and will fly fairly regularly all is well. The petrol is a drop in replacement for the glow if that helps anyone with model choice. Another thing is that anyone buying one is not testing the engine as such, just using it. By that i mean i do not need you to try 50 different props and a new fuel mix every weekend. Pick the fuel/oil you would normally use (aspen premix 50:1, aspen home mix 40:1 or pump petrol home mix 40:1) and a prop that best suits your model and then leave it alone. If a conrod seizes and you have used 5 different oils in as many flights (yes, someone did this with the first round of engines) how can i possibly diagnose what went wrong? Just use the engine as you normally would, forget all about testing it. Using it is the test and if you use it without problems, you and the engine pass. I hope all that makes sense and isnt too grumpy. I just dont want to be calling people each week hounding them for an update. It makes my life difficult and its not ideal for customer relations! If anyone is interested in an engine please let me know.
  9. Well whoever sold you that lied through their teeth twice as it has 6% castor in it and has never been recommended for Laser engines. I would use it for weed killer and cleaning up old engines. Dont run it through a modern engine. Grab some new fuel. 5% nitro and 15% oil laser 5 if you want one fuel for all engines or the 5% nitro 7% oil laser 5 pro if you want a fuel only for your Laser engines. Model shop leeds are showing the laser 5 in stock as do elite models so it seems generally available.
  10. The big question is to ask what this ancient fuel is. If its some old 20% castor slop then i wouldnt recommend using it no matter its age.
  11. If its free to turn then i would probably whip the front off and see if the bearings are turning or if they are locked up and the crank is spinning in the bearing. If the bearings are free then i would just fire it up and give it some. Use 15% oil on these older engines as they were not built with the same materials as the current ones. You can ditch the castor though. I suspect there is enough inside it to last it a month of running on pure methanol!
  12. Its a 61 Kevin and was made in the 1984-88 sort of time frame by the look of it. Its had a carb replacement sometime in the 2002-2005 period as well. The 61 was discontinued in 1992 and i no longer have any spares at all for it. Loose or damage any part and im afraid its a bin job. If you want to have a go at fixing it then ok, but do not spend loads of money on it. £15 for new bearings is the limit i would say. It will need new bearings as that castor has probably polymerised by now and you will never get it out. All the screws are 4ba so you need a 3/32 allen key for the big ones ad 1/16 for the grub screws.
  13. Absolutely. I wonder what happened to it. I mean the whole front section of the crankcase is missing. I can understand that it might crack in a crash, but to come away completely is a surprise. I am also shocked that it is hanging on to its cam timing. I would expect movement like that to be enough for it to skip teeth but apparently not.
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