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Dickw last won the day on May 12 2021

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  1. I am no expert on legal matters or insurance, but from previous (work related) experience of damage claims the following seems the route to follow if it can’t be sorted amicably. The person with the damaged wings submits a written claim to the car driver detailing the damage and costs. The car driver submits the claim to his insurers (car and/or BMFA) and asks them to sort it out. As part of that process the insurers will enquire if any other insurance is involved, so which ever insurer you chose to start with the other might become involved. There will then be extensive negotiations between the two insurers and claimant. Best settle amicably if possible! Dick
  2. Some ESC for quads and helis are designed to be controlled by a "flight controller" and may not accept the normal output from a receiver. If they will work with a normal receiver they should be fine. You just need to confirm that before buying. Dick
  3. Flat on top of a fuselage works but probably best not flat 'against' the fuselage if it is carbon or some other conducting material. The attached photo shows an arrangement that worked OK for me in a carbon fuselage. Dick
  4. Well I have seen over 8kW peaks when experimenting with 10s and a shorter start up ramp, but I think the extra couple of kW appears mostly in heat and noise (prop thrashing the air). It is certainly less efficient than the 6kW setup, but still spectacular in a 2m glider . Back to the OP subject. I just cycle new packs once to check them out, then, if OK, after that I charge the night before planned use. Any unused ones get returned to storage voltage the day after. No idea if this is the best way to manage cells, but I figure that I abuse them enough while flying so try to help by storing them gently! Any used ones get left at whatever state they end up in after flying (usually near storage voltage anyway!). Dick
  5. Used in very short bursts of a second or two you can take some very high currents from quite small Lipos without degrading them. The attached data chart is from an F5B competition glider using a 9s 1500mAh Lipo. I use 6mm bullet connectors and short 4mm^2 cables and nothing has time to overheat with the short bursts and cooling time between. If you are wondering what use a two second burst of power is, then just look at the height gain from it. Usually about 12 such bursts of power in the average F5B flight and the batteries survive quite well, although we do heat them to about 35 degrees C before flying. None of this has anything to do with normal usage by most (normal ) people, but it might explain what someone means when talking about extremes - usually some additional factors not mentioned! Dick
  6. I got that with Firefox as well, but if you go into the Firefox menu - settings - security; then delete the cookies and data for bmfa.org it will work fine after that. I assume the problem arose when I tried to look at the BMFA site while it was down. Dick
  7. I agree there is a lot of history left over from the nicad days when we would do anything that might get us any little bit of extra performance. Now I just do a single charge/discharge cycle to check that the batteries actually have the expected capacity and a reasonable IR. After that - charge and fly! Dick
  8. The only ideas I can come up with are applying heat to the motor casing to get a differential expansion, or (depending on the motor design) perhaps dismantling the motor and working from the inside. Good luck. Dick
  9. ISA Ivinghoe Soaring Association. A Google search should come up with their website, or look on the BMFA Club finder. Dick
  10. Is this the recording you want? https://itat.bmfa.uk/12-04-2022 Dick
  11. I remember a series of articles in model magazines in the 1960s on the same subject. Was that a follow on development or a rehash of that original article? A most fascinating series of articles to a young modeller, and I read them all several times, but I never really knew whether to believe it or not back then as it seemed almost science fiction (or wishful thinking). I too would love to hear any first hand information from back then. Dick
  12. Hi Adrian. On the plus side, it looks good and still seems to be in one piece. It is not a particularly big glider, but the fuselage is fairly large to grip with one hand and the UC wheel seems to be in just the place I would like to hold it when launching, so that makes it difficult for you. If you can get some one to launch it for you for the maiden that might be a good idea. Once you have the confidence of knowing how it flies you can try self-launching again later. A straight launch is often more important than a hard launch, so I have sometimes suggested practicing by throwing a broom handle or a piece of 2x2 timber till you can throw it straight and hard. With some of my more powerful gliders (too much to hold at full power) I try to level it up with 2 hands then drop one hand to the Tx to hit full power as I throw with the other. If you are reasonably quick that will result in a level launch at full power which should help. Practice throwing the “broom handle” while manipulating the throttle like that to perfect the action before trying with the model . It looks great so don’t give up. Dick
  13. Yes it is a 4-Max 4s 2200, but mine is a 40c - dimensions are 118 x 33 x 28 mm. Agreed the battery strap is a weak feature of the model, but the battery has remained in place so far even during inverted flight. Cheers Dick
  14. Just measured the throws I have been flying with:- Aileron:- 10mm up and 7mm down Elevator:- 10mm each way Rudder:- 20mm each way Now that I have had a look at it again I see can get the 4s 2200 battery right up to the firewall and still manage to use the battery strap, but perhaps your 3s 2200 is a different shape to my battery. Dick
  15. The manual suggests the CG as 50 - 60mm back from the LE but I found that a bit too far back and "floaty" in windy weather and now fly at about 45mm back. I find that suits my faster more aerobatic requirements for the model and is better in higher winds. I started with a 3s 2600 battery which needed to be well back to get the 50 -60mm CG, but I have now moved to a 4s 2200 which sits right up to the narrower bit at the front and gives me the 45mm CG. I would have thought that a 3s 2200 would have slid further in to the narrow bit, but I have not tried that and, as you say, the battery retaining strap is a bit far back. There are no suggested throws in the manual, but I can measure the ones I am using tomorrow if it helps. It doesn't seem too critical to me. Dick
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