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Danny Fenton

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Danny Fenton last won the day on June 6

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  1. Hi Hugh, yes I used brass, as long as the hinges are bushed, should be fine. You will enjoy the build but its not a quick build. Fit mini servos in each wing, would be my advice. Also rigidly fit oleos.... Cheers Danny
  2. Thanks chaps, I doubt this engine will ever want more than an 8 inch pitch prop. People keep forgetting that you can use a threaded sleeve if you run out of thread. So that the thread goes inside the prop hub. Anyway as you suggest Brian I wont do anything until after its flown. I tested my starter, works really well Cheers Danny
  3. I have had that same problem with this forum. I think the pictures are tagged with their orientation when taken. And you have to remove that EXIF tag. I have some free software called PhotoRazer that will do that. Sometimes you can also use paint, rotate the pic then save, doesn't always work for me but worth a try. Cheers Danny
  4. well thats a 50/50 spread of opinion! I appreciate its only sport scale, but this is where you try things for the more accurate models. I have a quarter scale tiger to build and a Laser 180 that would go well. Again that may need a short spinner. Cheers Danny
  5. Would appreciate your comments on shortening a crank. To make a blunt spinner that the Auster has there is 6mm too much thread length beyond the prop. I think I may make the spinner, to basically see if i can, then cut the shaft after flying the maiden. Assuming you don't tell me not to? Cheers Danny
  6. Thanks chaps, that will do me. I will secure the wiring to stop it flapping. The Allen screw extending the needle valve is only 6mm below the cowl so the head is easy to find thankfully. Cowl fit looks poor in these pics, it's not that bad! I fear a session in the garden coming up...... Cheers Danny
  7. I have mounted the Rx battery in the cowl area. The wires will be tidied up and secured. Now looking at the remote glow connection. I really liked something I think I saw John Rickett using and that was a 3.5mm mini jack, should be meaty enough for 3A at such a low voltage? Cheers Danny
  8. The two O.S's were run in plenty - dozens of flights in a Funfighter (the 25) and dozens of flight in a Gangster 52 Then a Flair Legionnaire (the 40) I have had them since the late 70's The Jen 57 was new, but I ran half a gallon in the garden. The two OS's ran fine in the 70's It is as if modern fuels disagreed with them. The Jen 57 was a more modern engine designed for modern fuels so should have been fine. The problems are one of the reasons I am re-visiting glow, its something that has nagged at me. Anyway thank for your thoughts, most enlightening. Cheers Danny
  9. Hi John, yes I appreciate they need cooling, and I am worried about this Auster in that regard, but I have fitted a tight baffle as advised by several modellers, hopefully that will mitigate the risk. My early experience was with a Wot4, so cooling should not have been an issue. And I tried it with and without the cowl. As I said we tried lots of things. My examiner for my A test was very understanding and still passed me even though I twice went dead stick. The fact that I landed at my feet both times maybe did me a favour Anyway lets just see how it goes, I am currently making a flight box and acquiring all the paraphernalia that goes with fuelling and starting. Cheers Danny
  10. The two O.S motors a (25 and a 40) and a Jen 57 would start just fine but get a few minutes into a flight and they would go sick and stop Never got to the bottom of it, went electric and never had any further problems. But I will give it another go, you never know perhaps the jinx has worn off Cheers Danny
  11. I am talking from some experience, I turned to electric back in 2007 because 2 stroke glow, was totally unreliable for me. All the wise sages in the club couldn't figure out why my engines cut. Three different engines, different fuels, props plugs etc. So I hear what you are saying but we will see, I am perhaps just jinxed. Cheers Danny
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