Handyman

Thanks to you too Graham. Its funny, but an old dog can learn new tricks. Going to have to experiment at the club on Sunday afternoon, weather permitting. It's my reactions that I am going to have to improve. The trouble is that my gammy left knee lets me down sometimes, usually when I am hand launching. The least said about that the better!!!

Thanks again Jon for your input regarding the mixing or non-mixing of aileron to rudder. I have just been doing little drawings on my pad just to let me understand more about the reasons for not mixing aileron and rudder, and in doing so, it brought back to me something that my flying instructor demonstrated to me when doing my PPL, and it was a demo of side-slipping when there was a side wind component to add to the approach to land. That involved raising the into wind aileron, and then applying top rudder to keep the aircraft on the centre line. If I remember correctly, the art here was in getting the aircraft almost to the threshold, and then taking off aileron and kicking the aircraft straight with rudder. Mind you, that was a good many years ago when I was a member of Shropshire Aero club based at Sleap aerodrome.. Goodness, I feel even older than I do now. Still life in the old dog yet. Thanks.

Thanks to the people who took the time to answer my query. My memory is a bit duff sometimes and at 81, some of this modern technology gets the better of me at times. I have a J3 Cub, which was always skidding out of turns, and I remember being advised to mix a percentage of rudder in with the aileron, which cured the problem and made for a smoother turn each time. I have taken on board what John of Laser engine fame has advised me, regarding the use of rudder as well as the ailerons, and I also want to thank Andy Gates for his input. Weather permitting this Sunday, I intend to try all of the suggestions, but I may well still end up with the aileron to rudder mix to make my life easier. I hate sloppy turns, but my reactions tend to be a lot slower now than when I flew faster type models. These days, I prefer low and slow and steady flying. Does not raise my blood pressure. Must not forget EarlyBird for his video which helped a lot. Thanks to you all. Handyman.

Can someone please advise this 80 year old aeromodeller how to mix in some rudder with aileron to get a smoother turn and stop my aircraft from dropping its tail when I turn. Tell me in words easy to understand. My radio gear is the black one and is 6 channel. Thank you.

Thanks to everyone that answered my request for information and suggestions about the Perry carbs that I have on 2 of my engines. I will read up on the instructions provided by Nigel R but I am thinking of changing the carbs for a more modern version as suggested by Brian Cooper. I have found that these HB engines are a delight to use when set up properly, and I have several aircraft that are destined to have these engines fitted. My club is mainly electric, but I have "Grandfather" rights and am allowed to still use my i/c engines as long as they are sympathetically silenced. Anthony

Hi all. I have 3 HB 61 engines from the 1980s and they all have the Black Perry carburettor except for one that I fitted a newer twin needle carb to. I desperately need some advice or literature on setting up these carburettors. Any help would be appreciated. Anthony.

Hi, if you give me some basic dimensions of length width and of course height at the point where it fixes, I think that I may have one of these knocking about in my spares box. Cannot guarantee, but it sure looks similar. Worth a shot. Anthony.

I can't be sure, but you may need to ask about its transmitting range. It looks to me as though it is only meant for models that are on the ground, and operating at reasonably short distances. Bearing in mind that airborne models often get quite a way from you on the ground. If you are considering having the 2 basic channels, which are usually rudder and elevator, and you want to also be able to control the engine as well, then you need 3 channels. Far better to go for a 4 channel radio set and only use 3 of the channels, and later on, you can expand to use all 4 channels. Rudder,elevator aileron and of course engine control. Thats the way I would go if it were me. Hope this helps a bit. Anthony.

Thanks for that, I will give it a try, but at 79 years old,this technology gets the better of me at times. Will post again if successful.

Can anyone help an elderly aeromodeller to download Spektrum updates from their website and upload them into my 2 DX 6 transmitters. I have spent over an hour and still have not managed to do the job, and I am getting so frustrated now. I have watched a couple of so called help videos on YouTube, but just could not repeat or understand the things that they did that looked so easy..   Help........................Anthony. Edited By Handyman on 02/08/2020 23:04:47

Hi again John Stones 1. I received my Funky Cub on Saturday last from SMC Models. As I said,only £219 free post. The manual that came with the engine quotes a propeller size of 13x8---15x8 that is for a 2 bladed prob. I would like a bit more ground clearance, so I was going to go for a 3 bladed prop. Any advice what size and pitch of prop would suit the NGH 17 engine. Hope you don't mind me asking. Anthony.

Hi John. I did a search and Sussex Model Centre has one in stock for £219 with free post I will have to empty my piggy bank and see how much is in there. Thanks again,I appreciate it. Anthony.

Hi John.May I ask what the model is that you are fitting your NGH17 engine into. I have an unused 17 that I have fitted a venturi on to. It apparently improves the running of the engine and stops fuel being sucked out of the carby,especially when fitted inverted. I have been trying to find a suitable model for my engine,and I like the look of yours. Many thanks. Anthony.

Further to my message,the cabin struts were made from 3/16 piano wire and they were sort of "U" shape, but square U shape with 90 degree corners, and they were fixed to the underside of the top wing using undercarriage clamps. The pieces of brass tube were soldered or silver soldered to the ends of the arms of the u shape. Hope this makes sense. However I can send you some pictures of the items showing how they look and the rest you can see from the build notes. Regards...Tony.

Derek. I have PM;d you regarding this kit and now you say that it possibly came from the effects of a late member, then that must have been Paul Trimble. I will wait for your response to my PM. Regards Tony.