Max Z

https://www.flugmodell-magazin.de/downloads/dogfighter-duo-aus-depron/

I am a bit disappointed that the name of the designer of the Spitty, Thomas Buchwald, was not mentioned at all in the article (or did I miss it?). Thomas is a prolific designer from Germany, he has published a number of these kind of foamie designs in the German FlugModell magazine. FlugModell has decided to make these (and other) designs available for everybody, not just subscribers. Check the link mentioned in the Spitty article.

And it is only the unshielded part of approximately 28 mm at the end of the antenna wire that matters.

Presumably you meant on the same (geometrical) plane. The answer is it does not matter. The idea is that, as your plane can be in all kind of stances relative to the transmitter, there is always one antenna in a better orientation than the other one, in the worst case one is "dead" as it points to the Tx, and the other one has full reception. As for the transmitter, I believe in the "donut" signal strength pattern with the antenna poking through the hole, and thus bend my Tx antenna sideways (for flying planes at least, boats and other vehicles may be different). Edit: it occurred to me that you probably have a FlySky (i6?) transmitter which does not have an external antenna. AFAIK FlySky caters for that by having two antennae inside the case, at right angles to each other, but that does not take away the requirement to have the Rx antennae at right angles...

Looking at the connections, the bind plug goes in the rightmost connection, marked B/VCC. Plugs in vertically, like a servo connection. As the normal power connection will thus be occupied, just plug the battery in at any free channel during the bind process.

In at least one case I was happy to have the TX with me when trying to find and retrieve a model from thick and thorny bush. It was a cheap 2.4 GHz set, but it did have transmission quality feedback from RX to TX. By turning away from the area where the plane went down, and keeping the TX in front of me, I turned around until the transmission was at its worst, as my body was effectively shielding it. I then turned around by 180 degrees, sighted the direction and started moving in that direction. By repeating the procedure several times I eventually nearly stumbled over it 😁

A signal from the receiver to a servo or esc would be a PWM signal, not a PPM signal. PPM used to be the input to the receiver in the 27 MHz and 35 MHz days , coming in via the antenna. Nowadays this is all digital transmission. So the blue wire would be the signal from the receiver, as it is indeed marked as PWM. The red and black wires are most likely the power lines from the drive battery, providing the oomph to the motor via the ESC. As for the BEC, it's unlikely that there is one, as that would mean that the supply to the motor would be the same voltage as that to the Rx. So, hook up the black and red ones to the power supply for the motor, hook up the signal port (your channel 3, usually white or yellow, but blue in this case) at the Rx to the PWM pad , and hook up the ground connection on ch3 to the same pad as the black power wire. No connection from the Vcc of the Rx required (do not connect the red wire coming from your Rx to anything). As for the SW pad, it's anyone's guess, but the link in RottenRows post seems to suggest that connecting it to Vcc (the red wire?) arms the ESC. Max (everything above without guarantees, sorry).

Hi Bas, People convert older transmitters to 2.4 GHz as a special interest, not to save money. If your interest is to acquire a budget set, FlySky is not top of the bunch, but is very good value for money. I am happy with my FS-I6 (but under the Turnigy brand).

Hi Robin, I did just that a while ago when converting an old Robbe (Futaba) Kompakt to 2.4 GHz for a friend, unfortunately I cannot find any pictures anymore. But do read my story on the FlySky RM003 and the troubles I had to get it going. In the end it was a matter of reversing the polarity of the PPM signal, which seems to differ from the RM002, and THIS TOPIC on ModeZero will tell you how. The soldered aerial connection was a hindrance, but I got around that by carefully dismantle the plastic bits of the aerial, and fit all the remaining innards inside the Tx (plastic) casing.

Nice build Rich! As always, I admire the aesthetics of your colour scheme, very elegant. Cheers, Max.

UHU revival, now with RC:

I did use a slightly reflexed airfoil (8% HL80), but pitch stability is mainly achieved by setting the front and rear wings at some 1-2 deg. difference.

Basically, yes. The old one had a speed400 with an extended prop shaft, for weight distribution reasons. The new version's small and light brushless motor sits at the extreme end of the fuselage.

My OD Diamona 2.0., perfect flyer.

I cannot see anybody mentioning that you need a suitable charger for the lipo. I am mentioning it as the TS seems to be a beginner and going for IC engines from the start. And, as Cuban8 says, to monitor the charge status.

Open TX is very well explained by Mike Shellim on THIS website. There are many, many YT videos explaining Open TX or Edge, but if you are like me preferring good graphics with text, Mike's website is for you. That said, there is indeed a simple setup script included in OTX for setting up a new model (but I have hardly used it). I have to say I made the decision to go for a Multiplex system decades ago, as it was based on a similar way of thinking, and I preferred it over the then available major brands. Max.

👍👍

I checked with the above referred document, and you are correct, that is how the input setup behaves. But at the same time, the mixer setup behaves as I explained, i.e. all the lines are processed top to bottom, irrespective of matches found.

Just a bit more info: The example I gave in my previous post shows the "Replace" operator as typical, but as the 3-position switch is multiple exclusive anyway, these lines could be the default "Add" operator. But "Replace" does not hurt. But the last line (not the first line Matty), the SH toggle, should definitely be "Replace". Btw I am using this excellent document from Mike Shellim as my reference. Max.

Rereading Alan's opening post I realised that he probably does not know how to create fixed positions with just a switch as input. This can be done with a mixer and the "MAX" source, as in this example: Src = MAX, wt=66%, switch=X_down, multiplex = REPL No further Input or source needs to be defined.

I am not sure that would work Philip. You will end up with two True conditions, 100% on top and , say 33% on one of the lower lines. The last one encountered will take precedence, so you will end up at whatever switch X is positioned for. If anything, you will have to make the 100% by the SH toggle the last line. And all mixer lines should be the "replace" type. Max.

Understood. Sorry, I am not a native English speaker.....

I can work out who u is, but who is k?

Check your CofG when using the 100c, usually the weight goes up with the c-number.

HK do sell a prop adapter for the Durafly Spitfire, AND they're still in stock (just)! Would that not fit your Tundra, perhaps with a filler piece to stabilise the prop? https://hobbyking.com/en_us/durafly-supermarine-spitfire-mk1a-mk2a-prop-shaft-adapter.html https://hobbyking.com/en_us/durafly-supermarine-spitfire-mk1a-mk2a-mk5-bf-109e-3736-770kv-motor-with-prop-adaptor-and-mount.html P.S. I do know it is a bit of a risk, I've got a few that seemed to fit (other motor type), but then the recess for the centring boss on the motor was not deep enough............☹️