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Nigel R

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Everything posted by Nigel R

  1. Pretty sure aerodynamic drag is a big thing, even at 28mph.
  2. Looking good Jon What are you planning on painting with?
  3. Crikey. Certainly thumbs its nose to the notion of aerodynamic drag. I think I might wait for a more regular (super)mini to come into our price range though.
  4. As you say. The market is already there in some parts of the world. But not here.
  5. I'm not sure which end is the front. Does it need a diesel loco to pull it?
  6. Have you tried the Ioniq 5 yet? Might fit your bill. A proper quality controlled family capable car, it's the first EV I've been impressed with in terms of interior space.
  7. ED would you use bearing fit on ID or OD of the bearing (or both) ?
  8. Are you using some sort of dropper or fine tube applicator? I find that makes the biggest difference. As Jon suggest, the least amount of glue possible. Then go over when it is off the board.
  9. There was the problem with Ecuador stopping work for months because of Covid. I'm sure the world supply is still playing catchup and will be for some time.
  10. Gen 2 DX8 has two aerials. As Shaun says, basic RF link info plus RX volts. They're generally excellent bits of kit but with few bells or whistles, just a really solid basic RX. If you're flying ye olde 40 sized IC they're spot on. 6610 is about £20 more than the 620 I think, with more telemetry. Also has built in altitude/vario plus sockets for a few external sensors such as RPM. What telemetry are you after?
  11. I'm coming to the end of the current build and the two builds at the top of the wishlist are both 60 size models of around 64 or 66". The first (standard balsa construction) is currently looking like around £120 of wood, split around even between surfaces and fuselage. The other is Fugitive (link below) which uses rolled 1/32 ply to form the fuselage built in a jig - this drops the fuselage cost by about half. Interesting technique for anyone set on building with wood. https://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=9679
  12. You've already got the current best answer for towing a van around. Horses for courses etc.
  13. Or, buy a 10 year old Leaf for the same money. I have to say I don't see the point in this particular market myself. Obviously they have a lot of interest. I'd also assume that's not a new battery going in? Just appears that a straight motor swap seems to be the worst of all worlds, keeping the box and clutch of an ICE drivetrain. That said, the real stickler for me is that the old affordable second hand cars currently come with old and "well used" (read, big loss of range) batteries. And it seems we're still awaiting a reasonable replacement battery service to be offered for this kind of price point.
  14. nice one Nick - many thanks explains why I couldn't see the thread! are they particularly heavy units? now very interested, if I'm going to spring for a new can, it might as well be one that does the biz, as it were
  15. something possibly of interest from economy, practicality, have-we-really-come-that-far p.o.v. : https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic/243226-david-vizard-1275gt-around-america-economy-drive-1976/ 1976, 50mpg, for the trip overall, noted in the article, steady state running of 66mpg at 50mph ...but who wants to buy a small light car? smart car anyone?
  16. well in some senses yes, as they have more power and range but I cannot see that making batteries two or three times their actual needed size plays toward reducing damage to the planet, or having way more power than needed is helping much of anything the problems the fleshy bit behind the wheel
  17. ah, ok - couldn't see a threaded portion on the weston site - interesting
  18. Thanks Nick, they look interesting. How do fix to the header, flexi + clamp? Don't suppose you have a photo of the 120?
  19. Worth making sure the front bearing is sealed or shielded - engines can draw air through open races. Which can make for odd throttling and/or difficult idle needle setting.
  20. My wings are often "a bit out" until webbed and sheeted. If the structure isn't going to have webbing or sheeting, all the rigidity is in the covering anyway, so just fix it when you are covering. i.e. some careful application of heat to shrinking the film in order to hold it straight. In a similar vein, the old dope and tissue methods for open structures involved pinning things down to hold them in place whilst the shrinking happened.
  21. kc, that's impressively minimal use of material, but way too much effort for me! As stated above, I'm mostly sold on hobbycraft foamboard for ribs, wherever possible, it costs peanuts and is easy to cut to shape. One drawback, it is quite thick at 5mm, so tapered wings need a light touch with a long sanding block to get things fitting nicely. Can be easily reinforced with liteply riblets for e.g. UC mounts or wing dowels or whatever. The biggest material cost in wings is the sheeting, anyway.
  22. 1st gen leaf. 24kwh 107hp
  23. That's certainly true enough.
  24. You've seen the price of Ecuador gold lately? You might find a veneered foam effort now comes in cheaper than an all balsa wing... I have started using Hobbycraft foamboard for ribs and internal parts now. It's properly cheaper. For ribs, it is much quicker and easier to cut out with scalpel and sand to shape, too. Nothing new there though - Dereck Woodward had foamboard ribs on his plans in the late 90s (https://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=11734). Foamsafe cyano works well.
  25. Devil's advocate: How are the lifetime environmental costs of solar PV looking these days? China made panels (coal electric, poor mining practices, etc etc) with UK sunlight levels didn't look so good last time I checked - things may have changed though. Panels manufactured elsewhere (clean electric in germany) were pricey and had massive payback times - again, things may have changed...
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