Nigel R
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Everything posted by Nigel R
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"Perhaps it is for best shelf life of the battery or possibly it’s just the safest way to transport and store them." Shelf life is best around 30% to 50% charged. As for transport, it is now FAA regulations to have 30% or less, and of course rest of world follows suit. It's all about reducing the stored energy being shifted about - they don't want unexploded incendiary devices filling up aircraft, for some reason...
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Geoff I don't think you can draw that conclusion about the internal resistance and the voltage. The simple model has many limitations. You may want to tell Boeing about your overcharging experiment but I suspect they may disagree about the the frailty of lipo construction . .. Lastly the storage thing. Maximum life certainly comes from perfect storage but I think the style of charge and discharge had more effect on lifespan than storage at full charge vs storage at half charge.
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Volume determines weight. to keep ppower to weight the same find the volume increase. 1.41 x 1.41 x 1.41 is approx 2.7. So 2.7 times original power. As a starting point. Martin, double power looks more like a 2 5% increase?
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You're describe a hobby in its early days there Pete. Over time as it becomes more mature, the pre-rolled answers become more numerous, for RC we see increasingly complete kits become available, through to these days the availability of bind and fly type ARTFs - almost a "hobby in a box". Most people go with the easiest answer to a problem and that is almost always the exact opposite of scratch building and thinking out solutions as you go. You can say similar things about any hobby. Cycling, for instance - almost nobody builds their own bikes now. There will always be folk who think as you do, "how can I do X" and figure their own answer. As an aside, people still spend years building their own steam engines.
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Both, either, or possibly neither. With a side order of smoke and mirrors. I don't think Hanno was above playing a little mind games with his competitors. He was quoted after retirement as saying something along the lines of "I made them a bit different because otherwise we couldn't have sold the new one". The same holds true of competition kit in a myriad of different sports. Most of the tiny differences are there to make sure the kit can be sold to the competing punters who want the best kit available and, it helps, if 'the latest' is 'the best'. Usain Bolt wasn't fast because he had shiny gold trainers. Etc.
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Looks brilliant with both cowls on. I want one!
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I think I would be tempted to use two strips of 1/16 balsa to part fill the wing seat gap, and take up the rest of the space with foam tape or some silicon goop.
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"when people ask me to show them how to do some aeros, they comment on how I know where the sticks go at what point.... " couldn't agree more with your post extra practice practice practice until it is second nature
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Lots, and lots, and lots, and lots, of practice. And I would suggest a simulator. This is what they absolutely excel at. In fact I would say for this a simulator is far better than learning at the field. You can practice hours and hours of circuits and corrections ad nauseum without any expensive crashes.This also removes the 'fear factor' when you're practicing - which will do wonders for how rapidly you can learn, a nervous pilot will never progress as fast as a relaxed one. Double bubble really, lots of time learning, and learning faster while you do. There are lots of things simulators are crap at - but this is one of their strong suits.
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The next job seemed to be getting the wing bolt blocks organised. For this size model I like two M5 nylon bolts tapped into a hardwood block or (in this case) birch ply. I cut some rectangles of 1/4" birch ply, and put some med or hard balsa on the back to reinforce the glue joint. My ply is 1/2" by 1 1/2", balsa reinforcement is 1/2" triangle section.. Photo shows the balsa reinforcement being sanded to size in my rudimentary sanding guide (two bits of 3/4" MDF arranged so that I can easily put right angles on bits of wood with a sanding block) And here is the rear end of the block, for this bit I shimmed the thing on the sanding guide so that the block matches the slope of the wing saddle, and sits nicely against the former. Lastly, getting it all glued up in the jig. Alliphatic resin for this joint, a few clamps, and some small squares of MDF to prevent clamps marking the fuse sides. Can actually see the triangle section from this angle. Also, there is plenty of space between the blocks for the aileron torque rods. As an aside to all that, I'm changing the snakes for the Sullivan efforts. I don't like the ones I have - the M2 hardware is way too loose (read, I could pull one fitting out by hand). Not best pleased with those. SLEC, these are not your finest hour. Somewhat annoyed after cutting the M2 hardware and so on.
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Keith, you might be able to see the CofG on here? It's a low res version on Sarik's website: **LINK**
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Trevor, interesting note about the electric retracts, I wonder if the problem would show up if you used a separate physical battery for the retracts, vs the uBEC device you are using. Anyway, neat solution. I guess you must have a fairly fancy TX to achieve this? Otherwise I suppose a retract sequencer would do the same job for those of us with a more basic TX. With my electronics hat on, I would say that using the stalled current draw to terminate the retract drive is a better answer than using a limit switch. Fewer mechanical parts, plus it would prevent a stalled leg from draining a battery. All of which is just like electric windows on your car. Peter, the Ramsay Pitts were quite large, 1/4 or 1/3 scale weren't they? I think I would need a short sit down after after discovering the spin characteristics on something like that! My little bipe also needs to come in on around 30% throttle. The one time the ESC crapped out, I had a very long walk into the neighbouring corn field to retrieve it...
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Hi Jonathan Good to have you along Balsa is like a sponge particularly the light stuff. Sometimes that's a good thing and we can take advantage of it. I can't claim credit for the cyano thing but it's a good one. I use it on any threaded holes. Works great on liteply too. Kc, that was my conclusion too. That said... There we go. Elevator number two cut from wood which - so far - looks nice and straight. I put a taper on the surface, down to just over 1/8 or 5/32. I'm never sure nowadays whether the taper makes any odds to the aerodynamics but it does mean I'm making the elevator a bit lighter which is a good thing. I'd not bother if I was doing an open frame surface.
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Hatch catch and locating tongue in place.
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Those cowls look great. I guess you want the lightest of light balsa for the centre of the sandwich?
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Very nice Trevor
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Afternoon and welcome. You can't go too far wrong with Super 60 as a first model.
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Considering going electric - advice rplease
Nigel R replied to alex nicol's topic in Electric Flight for Beginners
Matches my experience Chris. I never kept detailed records but in 10 years of flying many years ago and the past year, I never had problems with radio that weren't operator error. Look after the gear and the gear looks after you. -
Should say ran not team. Another fine automistake from my phone.
