Wookman
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Posts posted by Wookman
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Bear in mind that when setting up the failsafe you will need to follow the FrSky instructions for the module and receiver not the JR instructions.
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22 hours ago, Neddy said:
Just wondering if it safe to use two 3.7v 1860 lithium batteries to make up 7.4 volts to run 5 volt components eg servos, stabilisers and receivers.
NO.
Unless you use a Battery eliminator circuit (BEC) or High Voltage (HV) rx and servos.
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Add some down thrust on the motor?
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If you are using open tx or one of its variants I don't imagine it would be hard to take the throttle setting as a master and mix it to the aileron and elevator throw.
Not sure how but somebody out there will.
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Try flying anything on reeds!
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3 minutes ago, David Davis 2 said:
Transmitter module: Option 1: Internal 4-in-1 multi-protocol module (CC2500 CYRF6936 A7105 NRF2401)ï¼'
This is the option you want. It will run most mainstream RF protocols including your DSM2/DSMX receivers.
The operating system is most likely Open Tx or Edge Tx. Different mind set to the more prescriptive Specky programming.
FrSky might be an option but they will be running FrSky RF protocols so will need to replace all your rxs or get a module to run your Specky rxs. This will most likely need to a multi protocol module because later FrSky Txs have the "lite" module bay and there is not, I believe, a dedicated DSM2/X module in that format. The older designs have the full size JR bay but again the Specky module is DSM2. If you want DSMX capabillity I think you will have to go with the Lemon module.
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Nylon bolt from modelfixings maybe?
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Cg at 30 to 35% of root chord will put you somewhere near.
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Somebody must have one lying around somewhere?
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Thinsulate fingerless mittens whilst actually flying. Add a big pair of skiing gloves over the top between flights. Most of my winter flying is F3f so fairly short flights of 5 to 10mins each. For more prolonged flying I would use a tx mitt.
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Just picked up a rather nice low mileage X9D+SE so I am now looking for another straight neck strap bar. Anyone able to help? A set of standard stick tops would be nice too as the SE ones better suit a thumb rather than a pinch style.
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35 minutes ago, Simon Burch 1 said:
However, it can't ban birds.
I suspect they would if the could.
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An eminently sensible suggestion but Rid is not designed to stop criminal activity. It is designed to initially extract money from people and ultimately clear the lower airspace for Uncle Jeff and his like to create all these thousands of high tech jobs and fly all their junk about.
Just another thought
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7 hours ago, Arthur Harris said:
This is why I think we (model plane flyers) should disassociate ourselves from drones, large models, jet turbines and other models that draw attention to our hobby. Us electric flyers can keep our heads down and off the radar.
It has been impossible to create a separation between drones and models so we are in it together. The arguements over this have long since run out of steam. Any effort by anybody (and especially from within the aermodelling world) to divide us as a movement must not be allowed to gain traction. You electric flyers wil be equally affected. We must all stand together, electric park flyers and 1/3 scale carbon glass glider flyers and everybody in between.
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11 hours ago, Arthur Harris said:
I think FRZs will be increased in area, and clubs that fly within them will be forced to abandon operations.
To give an idea of things to come this is exactly what has happened in France. Large swathes of land have been swept up into restricted zones.
The Presque Isle de Crozon is now a red zone effectively stopping the use of many good coastal slope soaring sites to the west of the Menez Hom.
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The latest Lemon Rxs might be worth a look.
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I used the Sullivan snakes on a model years ago and could never get the thing trimmed correctly. Every time I took it out it would need retrimming.
After an investigation I found that the fluted inner snake was expanding and contracting under variations in temperature.
The cure was to feed a bowden cable inner wire down the inside of the Sullivan snake with a normal solder adaptor at each end.
Leave a gap so that the fluted inner can "float" along the bowden cable inner.
This gives the temperature/length stabillity of the steel wound cable and the free running of the fluted Sullivan snake.
The adaptors can be installed outside the model as they can be threaded through the Sullivan Outer tubes.
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7 hours ago, Basil said:
Can anybody tell me at what is the min' charge for a Overland 2000 mah (non Lipo) pack,that is safe to use please.Also what sort of time period I might expect. Mine charges up to 5.6 but drops rapidly to 5.3 once in use. It is new about a year ago. I was thinking about going Lipo but the battery needs to be taken out to charge. I expect comments on this subject can be quite diverse. Thanks in advance.
Bas
To answer the question. A nominally 4.8 volt nimh battery is fine charging to 5.6 V. You would expect it to drop a bit at first but if it stabilises at 5.3 volts that is perfectly acceptable. Leave it on for half an hour, is it still up around 5.3 V. If it is, happy days. If it is dropping off to 4.8 V or less it could be time for a new one. If it needs replacing I would go for an 2000 mah Eneloop pack. These are bullit proof. I am still using ten year old packs in my JR 388s, always charged at 0.1C never fast charged.
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It sounds like you have an issue with the activation code/process.
Have you miss read the code?
Have you miss typed the code?
I am sure Mike will lend a hand after he has had his coffee.
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V tail will work as rudder elevator with dihedral and no ailerons.
Either tail configuration will work with a flatter aileron wing.
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Anybody out there in model land got a spare one.
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Nice work Leccy.
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Spoilers; Help requested (T31M)
in Beginners
Posted
Some further explanation required please Bas.