Denis Watkins

OK guys, have some consideration for readers who may invest their hard earned cash in these stabilisers then fit them incorrectly, due to the advice shown, and be dissatisfied with the operation. I did not design the 3 axis stabilisation systems available, so I follow the manufacturers instructions. My advice of fittment, level in the model, the right way round, at the C of G, is based on involvement in only 5 installations, from 3 different manufacturers. These suggestions are not my opinion, but just a precis` of manuals. The post asked for help, I thought I was helping.

Sorry Bob, let me elaborate, as I should have done in the 1st place. A single gyro can be bought, and a single gyro set on one axis through the corresponding servo or servos would stabilise that axis, which was Martins argument. But as you say Bob, and I said earlier, these 3 axis units need fitting at the absolute center of all 3 axis, namely centred at the C of G for them to operate all 3 axis independently, as they do increadibly well on 2 of the models I have them fitted, for gusty days All comments so far on gyros are correct, I was just pointing out that 3 axis stabilisers have to be "sense" set correctly in the model, facing the correct way on the C of G to work properly.

Not tried it yet Grant on a flying auto gyro, but an axis gyro or gyros will stabilise any flying axis, when correctly set to the lowest gain, where no shimmying of the axis is apparent. The gyro can be switched off, whilst the model is trimmed out, and when switched on at the Tx, the model will become more stable especially in blustery conditions.

A fuel tank OG, is small relative to the total size, area, and weight of any model, and the craft is set up with this empty as you say. It is heavier when full, but is forward and very close to the C of G, and barely affects our flying. So you are right to be puzzled, but as Martin says, just follow the guidelines, then decide where your preference lays

Martin, you are absolutely right, that a gyro set anywhere along an axis, would stabilise that axis, e.g. for "roll", the single gyro could be mounted on the top of the fin and work. But these units have 3 gyros set very close together to control 3 axis independently, thus the central fitment location is vital. Eric, Nimrod was said as a joke, but referring to making extra space being built onto the model if need be, to accommodate both the lipo and the stabiliser centrally Edited By Denis Watkins on 22/09/2016 07:24:18

My last 3 models were meant for electric, but electric ARTF are built light and small ideal for IC. I remove the motor block/box from the front end with a saw, then epoxy a 3 - 6 mm ply for the front bulkhead. To date, SC30FS on a Taylorcraft , Same on the yellow Seagull mini Decathlon, And an ASP21 fitted to an HK £62 Edge 300 All fly beautifully Edited By Denis Watkins on 21/09/2016 21:35:58 Edited By Denis Watkins on 21/09/2016 21:42:43 Edited By Denis Watkins on 21/09/2016 21:44:29

A dog tooth jetstyle leading edge at the tips will delay tip stalling considerably David Google it

Woe Martin, these are not regular gyros, but are for fixed wing stabilisation through the control surface servos. They have a top, and front, for fitment, and only work on the C of G A NASA single missile gyro would probably maintain flight fitted anywhere But these are very simple gizmos that control 3 axis independently when fitted at the centre, facing the right way

Hi Eric, do not put a stabiliser anywhere but bang in the centre of the aircraft, on the C of G, facing forward. No other place is suitable, and the trouble it causes cannot be trimmed out. I stress, this unit, if it is to be used correctly, has to take priority over the battery position Built a "Nimrod" pod on the aircraft to carry the battery, if the stabiliser is to be given a chance Edited By Denis Watkins on 21/09/2016 18:24:26

All those will bind Jon, to tge DX6, but surely you don't have all of them? Just standardise to simplify your set ups Edited By Denis Watkins on 20/09/2016 20:28:43

Having read more of your post, lead acid will not tolerate this low, flat state for very long, and even if the battery recovers for a short time, it is damaged. In days of old, batteries were built stronger, but 2 years is a long time with modern batteries. 12 months is the usual guarantee, unless you buy top dollar 75A

Lead acids too have to endure vibration and potholes while travelling in the car, and can drop a cell due to internal plate damage at any time. Dropping one cell in these offers massive internal resistance and degradation. On the bright side, this has happened in good weather and not on the 1st icy morning when you cannot easily overcome the delay

Can I ask Pat, is the Skywalker a tubular framed aircraft with a wing and tail? Is it that style, thanks

In fairness to your flying Graeme, we often think one poor landing caused a catastrophic snap, but other than a high speed collision, with fuselage tail, it is the weakest, thinnest loadbearing part of the model, I think it starts with a small crack, and over time, the next knock and its off. We then hold our hands up and cannot beleive that the recent action could cause so much damage, and perhaps it didn't, perhaps regular use caused the damage to progress little by little   Edited By Denis Watkins on 17/09/2016 08:00:22

Suppliers of Non OE Epsom cartridges have the chips reset, and OE cartridges can be reset to drain them during printing

Just a tip Phil, and guys and dolls, when you get a new printer, and it is not frequently in use, Just switch it on every couple of days, or even once a week, just to run the motor and gears and as it traverses the carriage, it also swishes your ink jets. It works for me

Just to move you on Simon, about current, this starts with your lipo. For example, a 2000 ma 3 cell lipo, maybe rated at 40C bursts, that is 40 x 2000ma = 80 amps, bursts, so that's 80 amp max. The ESC then should be chosen to embrace that current, yet that current should seldom be reached with the correct prop This is just a starter advice

Yep the needle is missing Dave, so 1st stop is the supplier, even if it is a broken needle, get it and I will try and match it up for you with my bits, or send me the carb, and I will try my small plethora of needles Edited By Denis Watkins on 14/09/2016 21:07:34 Edited By Denis Watkins on 14/09/2016 21:08:56 Edited By Denis Watkins on 14/09/2016 21:09:30

When you think about it Ron, thickening surfaces is akin to "reflex", that is, using surfaces in the airflow to dampen unwanted movement.

Most volatile liquids are deteriorating pretty much from manufacture, but as a compromise the mix should have peak strength for a matter of months. Fresh purchasing is a good idea, and it is so annoying when you bulk buy for economy and the stuff does not last long enough to get your moneys worth Edited By Denis Watkins on 14/09/2016 11:28:40

It is not just the Aurora 9 WH. The servos too have to be fitted such a way round that they can operate the same way. There are multiple threads for flaperons.

Ron, go on eBay. Heli boys are using the latest all singing kit. Get the Analoge head gyro GY48V, the red one, with 3 leads, the extra lead is the on / off. Should not be more than, £5. Heli boys don't use these anymore, and may even donate one.

Just to add, a continuous note is usually a "throttle high" warning, so trim down your throttle stick until it goes quiet. Also, a continuous note can also indicate poor power supply, including low charged battery, under voltage, or poor connection

Reading through everything Ron, you do have the mentioned thin vertical stabiliser. Try temporary thickening to the surface. I believe addition of a false cockpit must have screened or softened the vertical stabiliser oscillation, but thickening the surface does sound easier. I have used the old style helicopter heading hold gyro on the rudder control of a 7lb, 56 inch wing Raptor, that smoothed out a high speed tail waggle, and these can be switched on/off via Aux 1 on your Tx Edited By Denis Watkins on 13/09/2016 18:01:45

Try false cockpit shaped curves about the fuselage to break down the "flow frequency" passing about the model, full size use "fences" and "teeth", attached along areas of smooth airflow. Missiles were the same, oscillating at certain speeds, various appendages dampened these down. I myself calmed a delta by applying "reflex" This is achieved by setting the both elevators/ ailerons /elevons 1- 2mm above centre, up