Denis Watkins

Dubro also do Vintage wheels half the price, Nexus have backorder, but they do come up at the shows

The chosen transmitters will happily buddy wirelessly in 2 minutes Toto, so there is a " Conflict " in the tap tap press press selection you guys are going through. Information in one of both transmitters, does not sit well with the other. These NX have adequate memory to start with a fresh Model Name on both, a complete clean sheet. Set up a new model name on the NX8, and fly and trim the model at that. Then buddy the NX6, and get a competent pilot To fly and trim this. Don't just copy one set of Dodgy settings from one To the other. To switch on, maybe try, with the NX off, hold the right hand thumb wheel clicked down, then power on.

Sticking with Flair, check out Williams Bros Wheels 127mm in two styles

More than enough Ideal motor for the model Power to spare, the 40 could fly a 5lb model

There is a load of information online about the counterfeits, and some from Imax. Imax now have a high quality sticker on their own. Many of the B6s were found to be safe but 2 things caught my eye. On the conterfeits, all of the cables provided are of a smaller gauge than the genuine article And more worryingly, some of the counterfeits checked had a slight overcharge capability. This is not lipo friendly. I tested one unit by selecting less of a charge current, and it did cut off satisfactorily, But Your packs would never be fully charged.

All the lads comments here Ray, are because we all hit a cul de sac from time to time. As they say, change of view is the starting point , is why we go on holiday, to change our viewpoint. The weather alone has frustrated us no end, and there is nothing any of us can do about that. My own ploy was to look again a finescale modelling and make up some freelance railway wagon designs, using all skills necessary to make them look real. Replenished my acrylics for the airbrush and have a great time. Keep posting to give us a chance to help.

At my place we call such a day ( Strong Breeze ) a Wot 4 day, so the lads bring their wind capable Wot 4s.

Transmitter switches are very easily obtained and replaced Rocker, look online for your transmitter switches

It will take time for the lads on here to work the numbers bjk, but my twopenerth. When building " to fly " a model of this size, I would be aiming for 2kg all up. In old money, ballpark, if building to fly a 5 foot depron electric model, aim would be 3lb - 4lb. Lots of discussion to come.

Very frustrating Toto, I have 3 novices under my wing at the moment and we have just completed 6 weeks away from flying due to summer wet and wind, and like you,my weekend flying novice only has 7 visits in his log book, meaning the he managed 7 weekends with suitable weather for the whole year. He has 4 batteries, so I spend a minute getting him up and a minute getting him down, so he spends 4 minutes per battery flying. In 7 visits, he has flown about 2 hours. This is where the flight SIM comes in, 1st priority, Get On Your Flight SIM

=IF(Something is True, then do something, otherwise do something else) AND – =IF(AND(Something is True, Something else is True), Value if True, Value if False) OR – =IF(OR(Something is True, Something else is True), Value if True, Value if False) NOT – =IF(NOT(Something is True), Value if True, Value if False) Microsoft's versions of Logic

2 lines saves so many problems

The Force motors Toto, have a brass banjo set up on the fuel inlet that tends to slacken and pressure leak after warming up. Tighten up the assembly using 2 suitable spanners that fit correctly as brass easily rounds off at the edges.I Plumbing and tank placement, good plug and fresh fuel all lead to reliable runs, where only your kill switch will stop the motor.

Be aware of Volts Ken, but they are not the full story. A very healthy pack can still put out a lively volts reading while the remaining capacity can be grim. Yes, check volts, but together with capacity. Nimh and lipo are wildly different. Nimh is 1.2v per cell, not 1.5v like a good dry cell, so where is your 6v coming from, unless you have 5 cell nimh? Lipo, are near critical and approaching damage at 3v per cell and should aim to finish any load at 3.5v MAX charge on a lipo is 4.2v per cell, and all reputable chargers stop charging at 4.2V. You see where volts alone are not everything, you 6S must not exceed 25.2V and will never do so when using approved charger. Importantly your lipo should hold 5000mah and that can be measured. My 4.8V nimh holds 2200mah, and uses about 300mah after about 6 flights, no retracts or flaps by the way. Measure how much you put back into your lipo for some idea of condition. Repeat Volts are not the whole story

Albert, Check 1st if you have 6v tolerant receiver And 6v servos 4.8v healthy pack will be fine

It is normal to charge nihms at 1 tenth C Ken, or on the morning of flight, in a rush, I will go to 1A In your case, 1 tenth C is 220mah for 10 hours In a rush, mine take 2.2 hours, but is rare I do it. Walwart chargers, you may have seen, like an oversize plug, charged 14 hours, for 6v, at just over 7v going in. Like most packs, nimhs don't take overcharge well, and will " vent " on getting very hot, making the pack useless. Stick to 1 tenth C, 220mah or there abouts for 10 hours. 150 mah would work for 14 hours

Saw this David

With the item having obvious servo connector pjns, common to the board is usually negative pin. I would join that up to a receiver servo set up and try it. It does look like, as stated above, a servo retract slow.

I think so too Recalibrate your sticks, as manufacture instruction Spektrum recalibration is shown on you tube

Agree totally with the whole post, and value of the SIM Nigel. Almost the same, I fly fixed wing and heli, but heli, am told, I fly wrong. The resident heli expert at my place, flys " The Disc ". That is the blade impression in the sky. I cannot fly heli aerobatic, or ad lib a helicopter flight, I have to fly Scale, with the pilot at the front, with a flight plan. I fly ( wrongly am told ) the Tail. I keep the Tail at the back of the flight path, and this suits me and looks real.

Well Cliff, just recently,my buddy had a fly away, and we started to look into this, and it boils down to how much you want to spend. Lost article keyrings, £2-£4 work by Bluetooth on your phone with about 70ft range as you get nearer to the loss. The best we found was lost pet tracker, £20 - £30, works well out of sight with map on your phone.

The barmy thing is that methanol Paul, is a Waste Product, in many distillation processes, and manufacturers have to pay to get rid of it. It should be Free ! ! ! Perhaps " Waste Product " is a bit strong, but Methanol is definitely a bi-product, secondary, in many processes.

It is quite common to get confidence in a motor running leaving an high idle speed Kim, but even at 3000rpm the model can fly past. You are right to suspect the idle as 2500rpm - 3000rpm is not so different on the ear. Personally I get mine and the lads motors down between 2200rpm and 2500rpm for apparent in air braking and landing.

Here