Chris Walby

Maiden and one other flight. Did not need the slight up trim on the elevator so removed that and my aileron rates were too high on the maiden. C of G is 78mm and that was fine (has 60g on the battery hatch so will see if I can lose that at some point). I don't think the 13x10 works very well so at some point will try a 13x8 or even a 13x6/7. Second flight was 5 min of mixed THR and some WOT and landed with 50% on a 4S4000 so well happy with that! Better get on with finishing the painting and weathering. PS dolly legs are too long, but other than that it works a treat so thanks to Eric PPS thanks to everyone else for help, encouragement and filling the thread with a lot of old waffle! Possible John's maiden Sunday and need to chase James up now!

Mine is only a 600KV and anything under 13 inch dia and its doing less than 500W 13x10 yields 540 W and 120w/lb I don't want unlimited vertical or non scale, might even get away with the 13X8 if the dolly works well. Will soon find out once it heads across the grass on its maiden

Update time! Missed out on the FW flying as its still not finished so had to make do 😉 for 6 flights + 1 maiden and 3 training flights so a busy morning at the field! Might just glue the rudder hinges and get on with it as the rest is there from a flying perspective! John's is ready, but the excuse today when he brought up his dolly is that its too wet and muddy and would wait until Easter! James is in final painting stages... I think although he did say he was going to dope it as he likes the smell! Mine has been papered and some paint, but I might just connect things up and go fly now the dolly is finished! This flying by the others is just too much pressure and I'll finish the painting and weathering later! Prop testing with the model has given me 13x8 470W 13x10 540W so I am going to go with the pitchy beast for starters, failing that either the 13x8 or a 14 inch prop if I have to. What's the view of the green chap with the wild hair? or anyone else?

Failing all of the above suggestions, phone John at Logic RC, very helpful chap and I would expect he will know what the issue is and how to resolve it. PS people complain about the price of Specky stuff, but at least in my experience support is there and it works. PPS please let us know the fix!

Most likely you will need to set the trim or throttle end point down a bit and then the ESC will arm. Its a safety feature to stop the ESC arming and starting on the fly with the motor rotating! Its just Speky seem to output a slightly higher throttle setting compared with other manufacturers. Just make sure the prop is off in case it springs to life unexpectedly. PS you can check the TX in monitor mode that the throttle output is working with the RX unpowered first

There are always positives and negatives with this type of job, but if you have the right chemistry you could be fully charged and become one of the best at your post. Although once fully charged there is a risk of your electrolyte levels dropping if you start gassing on the job, but that might be a limit of your capacity so just be careful you don't dilute yourself with water.

My DR1 will be flown at or very well below scale altitude! But hopefully above ground level. PS still think I could get away with a barrel roll (especially if its a climb in/drop out)!

Hi Eric, Thanks for the motor info and dolly rational, I think I'll add a couple of foam wedges to prevent the fuselage moving as I have put the LE restraints further out. Looking at the video, do you purposely hold it down on the dolly until its picked up a bit of ground speed and then ease it off or just let it naturally lift off the dolly?

Hi Eric, I see you have moved on to flying your Corsair ! and what looked like a modified dolly and just had a couple of questions as I procrastinate with my build by finishing off my dolly. John, one of the other two builders on my thread really wants to launch via the dolly so I am just making sure I understand your design. Not sure what the hair rollers are doing on the crossmember as my FW sits on the center of the wing against the wood crossmember, so I have moved them inwards and put some hard foam blocks further out to support the wing tips The two uprights that sit against the LE, is there a reason as to why they are not further apart? Would the FW benefit form the Corsair dolly mod? Thanks for your time PS what size prop and motor are you running?

Lesson learnt the hard way is never forgotten! 45 Years ago I used to work on forklift trucks, even the big narrow aisle 72V ones and we were issued very nice Fluke digital multi meters that with a lead swap could measure current (unfused). After a few weeks I made the mistake of measuring the battery voltage while fault finding after measuring the current through a relay. No display nothing, took the cover off and the vaporising circuit board track totally destroyed any components as it straighten up from terminal to terminal! Popped it in its box and sent it back to Fluke (Watford IIRC) asking what the repair cost would be as it was my mistake, blow me it cam back the next day FOC! it even had new leads and the film on the display! I mentioned this to our controls engineer and he just said as customer service it was not even worth them looking inside, just replace with new. I still have the multi meter and it still works although I do have to change the battery once every 5 to 10 years!

Try looking here another annoying scam! its been going all day

same here 75p Someone some where has screwed up big time, surprised its not in the national news?

Should it not be

Hi Leccyflyer, you are correct, its an Arrows T33 and Flightline P-38. The P-38 is a weighty model but flies very well and not tried the a spin, full size have unrecoverable spin issue that put the US air force off them. Very sad story as the air force had stopped all spin recovery tests, but the Navy didn't get the memo so their test pilot tried it from 10.000 feet..all the way to the tarmac.

The narrow period of decent weather this week meant that it was worth a visit to the field or think of taking up model boats! Didn't get around to the T33, but one flight each of the Habu and WooHoo + 2 flights of the P38. The idea was to practice full flap landings, but if think two things scuppered my plans! Split flaps with max down only equals about 45 degrees (so not that much drag) and that its such a well sorted model it really does not put up much of a fight, but motors in on the throttle for a just mains touch down. I did try a 1/2 flap and no flap which felt uncomfortable and rather quick in comparison. Still surprised at how different the P38 is with the 2 blade/motor upgrade is compared with the 3 blade/motor set up is.

Hi, I was going to post this and after sitting in the "didn't read the post corner" thought it would be worth while anyway! I have a 600KV motor spare so would like to use it, but some testing might clarify things so here goes Originally it had a 3 blade 12x7 prop which on 4S pulls 42A and 614W, but as 3 blade is not an option let us this as a base. A 2 blade 12x8 on 4S produces 25A and 391W A 2 blade 12x9 on 4S produces 30A and 450W IIRC 12 inch prop might be a bit big (in diameter) for the FW190 + more likely to get broken, but 11X10 (down one on diameter, up one on pitch is approx the same) as 12x9 feels quite pitchy to me and might not suit the model. I can't remember what everyone else is using KV and prop wise, but my current thinking is maiden on the 12x9, then try out the 12x8. If that lot fails then 13x8, but I don't think its that draggy a model. Hope that helps A better option is to go for a 900KV motor....or 8S and a 500KV 🙄

One of the features of low KV motors is that by design they rotate slower than a higher KV motor for the same applied voltage. You can counter this if your motor is rated for a higher voltage so say 6S (two 3S packs in series) but they tend to be more expensive along with the ESC's so not really worth it IMO. Just saying you have a 1100KV motor on 3S and you then fancy fitting a 550KV, well on 3S it will turn roughly half the speed. Not good unless you have a light slow flying model. The alternative is to increase the size of the prop in diameter and possibly in pitch to achieve the same thrust, but normally you would run out of ground clearence with the UC or in our case more likely to break props and it will look odd with a large diameter prop on a FW190! Could go 3 blade but that just means more prop breaking for belly landers PS theoretically higher voltages and lower currents are more efficient, but it comes at a increased cost of components so swings and roundabouts. This is part of the reason Richard has designed the models this size as it hits a seat spot between cost and performance. I'll have tea and then post my motor tests and hopefully that will help! PPS I'll go against the grain as say at 4S a 550KV is too low !

Not quite sure how its intended to hand launch a Mossie, unless Eric comes up with a natty dolly for it + the additional cost of double the drive train. Don't get me wrong as I would have one if it was offered, but I can just see it going Pete Tong as people try and add UC, flaps, bells and whistles and it just gets too heavy to fly well. PS don't ask me how I know, but when they spin they take up a lot of sky to recover, a very stiff cup of tea and new bike clips before the next flight!

Didn't thing Richard was keen on the gull wing from a building perspective? How about a Wildcat, not a problem as it won't have UC although its a bit of a tubby shape (pot calling the kettle!) PS nice video

Hi, I think you are looking to gain too much as items on the shopping list contradict themselves, IMHO Constraints Similar model size to Mk1 Similar construction materials to Mk1 – Foam, balsa & lite ply 4S lipo power 1,000g target, bigger/heavier battery, but you want longer flight time? Duration Increase lipo capacity from 2200mAh to closer to 3000mAh Faster (more thrust) Increase EDF from 50mm to 64mm (on order), well that should reduce the duration if it has a higher wing loading due to weight, unless you are reducing drag, but not sure how that works with increased wing loading? Shorter thrust tube & reduce exit area to 90% FSA - calculated properly this time Faster (less drag) Reduce size of main intakes, no knowledge in this department, but will that actually effect drag as it the sucky bit? Reduce width of nose, pointy nose might save a couple of % yes it will help, but not by much? Thinner but stiffer wings, I get the logic so yes it will fly faster, but it will also have a higher stall speed due to the increased wing loading Manoeuvrability Larger control surfaces &/or greater throws. Yaw control for knife edge flight, etc – rudders? Won't this add weight and drag? Vectored thrust (on order) – for pitch and yaw capers, IMO but I found that VT screwed the fan efficiency, added weight and probably adds overall drag How about a SQ 2a and 2b? Thin wing light weight low drag sports model Retain original wing and load it up with rudder servo, VT IMHO by combining everything it will end up porky with a very narrow flight envelope, but what do I know!

Hi, if the lipo is that big/heavy will it need to be that far forward? Only wondering as I have a smaller lipo and its further back!

Each to their own, but I launch left handed, TX on neck strap and right thumb on the elevator/aileron stick. Throttle hold on top right switch. Throttle up with throttle hold on, then when ready model in left hand, flick throttle hold off and launch with right thumb at the ready to get some input...does not always work, but better than watching it pile in while stabbing myself with a TX stick! Looks to fly well, what's the low/high speed and stall like?

I would not use them for anything that flies! Tested with two DX8 gen 1's on two Lemon 8 channel RX's with exactly the same result (RX's bought at different times). TX and RX bound and passed range check. Tested at the flying field with no model, just RX battery and 3 servos. I then decided to walk across the flying field with the TX while my wife watched the servos moving and about 100 m in a arc around position of the RX it lost signal. I have flown plenty of models on DSM2 and DSMX with both TX's and not had any issues. This was a lightbulb moment as one of the RX's had been in a TN small balsa model that had crashed a few times (had a wicked tip stall) and assumed it was pilot error due to loss of orientation, but the arc of lost signal coincided with the non landing crashes. First point is that once I now I know there is an issue then from a safety perspective I can't use them and secondly I am not prepared to let any model of any value lawn dart itself due to a known issue. Lots of other people with different TX models and RX's have not had issues, but not in my case with two TX's and two RX's

Voltage sag is very apparent with edf's as they are quite high current demand. Simple solution is a higher C rating lipo I like GNB 2200mAh 4S 100C LiPo's as they give plenty of current without the voltage sag, but other high C rating lipos are available. You could parallel two of your 4S2200 together and redo the static test to prove the point around voltage sag! My Fokke Stick uses a 4S3300 at about 120A, but it gets to a point where as you increase the current so the voltage rolls off so I don't actually get any more power as P=VI PS it was a wing left over from a crashed model and was build to do one thing.....go very very fast! PPS - I have a twin EDF that if held at WOT will do 3 min 5 sec and kill the lipo <5% left...don't ask how I know 😞

Log which model and number of flights as in the early days I was more interested in the weather and if it was worth a trip to the field. Now I just use the "how windy" and do I mind having to fix the model approach. But still handy to know if its going to be blowing a gale as I end up just looking at the day's weather and not a forecast if I don't fill the spreadsheet in.