Richard Wills 2

My description of the Pitts model I don't think is uncomplimentary. I had the Blackhorse one, similar size to the Skybolt. It is heavier, it is shorter coupled, it is much draggier, flys faster, and needs more attention to the controls but it is a blast to fly and I love it. My comment comes from the Skybolt being a better choice for success earlier on in your flying journey

If sounding good is a priority I would say look at 4 strokes. For me 2 strokes are a means to an end, but sound awful especially under silenced petrols which most are. I would rather have electric in a scale plane than a 2 stroke. Saito FG-21 would suit the Skybolt I should think.

Can't help specifically on the petrol Toto, but mine has an OS 120 4stroke glow in it, and I wouldn't want less than that. If it must be petrol, I would think a 20cc would be the way to go. The model is a great flyer on the whole, predictable and doesn't have any bad vices. Like you said not ready for it yet, but unlike say a heavy Pitts, it is relatively easy to fly.

This happened to me last year with my Hangar 9 bf-109, servo failed mid roll. Interesting getting it back down I didn't have a higher rate, I do now! thankfully was not quite at full deflection so had just enough to keep it level and rely on the rudder and got it down safe.

The align switch is not heavy, and easy to press with little finger, very easy to use for planes as well as helis. At £50 it's a steal,

https://www.modelshopleeds.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=4952 I use one of these now, has a 3s 2200 internally. Starts everything including my Moki 210 glow. Starting planes sits nicely in the hand and little finger sits on the switch.

Mine is M4x0.7

I run mine on Optifuel 12%, 2 stroke version which is 18% synthetic. If you want to keep to the manufacturers recommendation of 20% oil they do the 4 stroke version. A fuel with 15% synthetic would also be fine i'm sure. As for nitro thats personal preference, they run fine on 5%, but they run better for me with more. I would stay away from anything with any castor in it.

Switched to Optipower 50c ultras in my 700 helis a couple of years ago and never looked back, don't use anything else now.

swiched from Spektrum DX9 to Frsky Horus several years ago. I also had about 20 receivers. Decided to do it all at once instead of drawing it out, so sold all the Spekky stuff and went all in with the frsky. Found the frsky operating system pretty good, never looked back just upgraded to an X20S. If opentx had been what it ran would never have done it, the new Ethos system is great.

I have sent you my email via private message. cheers

Would you private message me your number?

Eric, Obviously please give priority to anyone who got in touch before me, but I can come and collect these as soon as you want at your convienience. cheers

Also sent you a message interested in these.

I scrolled past this earlier, and thought it may be of interest. I haven't had anything scale on a 500. I have had the Align MD on a 600 in the past and quality wise found it pretty good, but there is not much available in the shops currently. For visibility I do now fit foam swimming pool noodles on the skid pipes similar look to floats improves being able to see the heli much better for orientation.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275808736614?hash=item40377b5566:g:hpgAAOSw-hVkLYFB&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4BxSnuvVFXU80boMzsw3EUxU0htFWdQ2gCCCzJfqlc9NCT%2FoERmZuZ%2FGT4ruHfuPi%2FLlEVpkP03UT4cK7GVR%2Fqsb%2FpTnU0iBXWcn6XaYiL7Jgr7TbUq0RZDO8FeBen9ufXWgW6NzJdTm9tMq8JJKllEmUuaGlpeGgUyOXSW5foXQr2lhsbdVAUukMfHGYGzs%2FrhrE8%2FwRqhHXkN%2B16MEP0wo6kClJVQC265rFi7%2F4dI4P5iOl4Glutu2ejr1ZR%2F8PLi%2BvxZSfED2ic1AfQPPlX0mhyGoP2uwsRy%2BUzrlVrcn|tkp%3ABk9SR57FqcH0YQ

I use the frsky ones in the wings of my BF-109, one in each wing driving 3 digital servos each. I wondered about current but then realised there is only 1 wire the same gauge coming out of the switch which drives everything so stopped worrying and its been fantastic, one servo plug per wing. Well 2 actually, they are digital only and my electric retracts didn't like the short pulse width but 2 is better than 4 per side.

The 56 and 72 have been revised to 56II and 72II, other current model in the alpha range is the 155

https://www.rcjapan.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=80_413_432&products_id=10397

This is what a pinch grip enables you to do much more easily

I have found the gimbals on my X20 excellent so far, very smooth. Don't go too heavy on the tension though, as you advance you will find that the collective stick is hardly ever still, constant micro adjustments needed to be accurate and then being able to accurately control a free moving collective without cross controlling will be rewarded.

The tension is personal choice, I like mine to stay where I put it to some degree. The most important thing is that it is totally smooth, and has no 'sticktion' . Spektrum sticks are awful for this, there is a perceptable jerk as it starts to move. This can be solved by putting a strip of teflon sheet on the metal tension strip. For the thumb v pinch, I pinch but a hybrid where you thumb the cyclic and pinch the collective sticks works as well. The height changes when using rudder could be cross controlling, and practice makes perfect here. But using the tail rotor affects collective and roll and will require adjustments on both to remain in the same spot, again practice practice practice

Manual pump, nimh glow stick, and an align starter with it's own internal lipo for me. Much simpler, lighter and no dangling cables to get caught in anything.

basic tools, blenderm tape, and a glow plug. Thats it for me. Anything else its take it home time.

I have always made sure that the unshielded active part plus an equal length of the shielded part are kept in a straight line, and at 90deg to each other.