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Tom Gaskin 1

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  1. A glorious day here on the south coast. I counted sixteen cars at the field this afternoon. Kiwi, Mam'selle and Hanky-Panky all others an airing 😃 Tom
  2. I second the bathroom cleaner & wet wipes approach as well. Used in conjunction with a soft detailing brush you can get into the 'pores' of the foam to make the model sparkle again. You could then give it a coat of Future floor sealant (something learnt from making plastic kits) to preserve the finish. Tom
  3. Some fascinating discussions here and also memories of school trauma with the physics laws! I do think that we are getting bogged-down in the science though. The quick answer to the OP is 'yes you can'. In the days of brushed motors (last century) we did need all of the help we could get in order to get the blessed models to fly for any length of time! Nowadays we have so much more power and efficiency to call upon that the type of prop on your electric motor is not terribly important. Tom
  4. Use them if you have the right size. E props are lighter as they don't have to put up with the power pulses of IC, certainly I use what I have in stock, whether IC or E. Tom
  5. Jolly slow to launch this morning, all other sites I visited worked fine... Tom
  6. On a lot of flat-plate wings used by Chris Golds he would also droop the leading edge to give a higher lift section. His 29" span Sea Vixen is one that springs to mind, with 32mm fans. Tom
  7. A lovely day here on the south coast - wall to wall blue skies for the whole day. The batteries got a real caning 😀 Tom
  8. Chris, I obtained it from a good friend complete ready to go, so can only comment on the flying. I do recall that he was not impressed by the kit in general and fit of parts. There is a build blog Here on the mosquito. Tom
  9. I have their Mosquito, originally powered by two 40's, now flying on a 5S2P 8000 electric setup (two 5 cell batteries in parallel in the fuz, feeding both motors. It is rather porky but fly's we'll. Tom
  10. These generic motors ran on six or seven cell NiCads, and providing you kept the plastic end cap (the brush holders) cool you could run them on eight cells. So either two or three cell LiPos will work depending on the cell count / voltage limit on you esc. The standard propeller hub on these models accepts the Graupner or Aeronaut blades so you can still experiment with prop size - just swap-out the soft hinge bolts for M2 steel cap head bolts - we used to see high revs bend the hinge bolts and then destroy the prop/spinner, followed by the front of the model! Tom
  11. Another competition session with the Hanky Pankys, a bit choppy for the balloon bursting but I came home with the winners biscuits and a complete model 😃 Tom
  12. If I recall, Futaba are the only RC firm to use that polarity on their chargers, all others use the JR orientation. Tom
  13. Check out the FUN-TU plan on OZ, it's an all-cardboard twin designed for two .20's Tom
  14. @Rich Griff last century there were a number of plans using corrugated cardboard for the primary structure with a bit of ply for high-stress areas. Tom
  15. On my Boddo Twin Tub the parasol wing has threaded rods embedded in the wing that pass through the cabane, with nuts & washers to secure it. It does mean that the model has to be inverted to assemble it, but using my SLEC model table it is no bother. Tom
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