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Philip Lewis 3

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  1. I recently did some research on this and from what I could find BWC can only effect NiCad's, NiMh and PB batteries (not so much in cars but has been found on some farm machinery) but does not affect Lithium batteries due to the way that they work. A bit more here, 5th post down,
  2. I think if in the outputs menu you set the lower limit you want not to go beyond it should respect that, I stand to be corrected as I haven't used Open TX for a few years but that would certainly work in Ethos essentially written by one of the ex Open TX developers (Bertrand), worth trying though.
  3. I would go with one of these, a direct and very good copy of a YGE ESC, quality ESC, never had a timing problem (that is what you have) with one of these.
  4. There is a quick and dirty way to do this, E Flite motors are labelled as IC equivalents so a power 60 is equivalent to a .60 glow etc etc, and they cover pretty much the whole range from power 10 all the way up to power 160, just look at the can length KV and diameter and look for an equivalent the same if you don't want to pay E flite prices, 4 Max also have a chart for E Flite equivalents. Likewise Hobby King do or used to do the same with their easy match range i.e. G90 equivalent to a .90 glow. The E Flite data sheets will give you suggested prop sizes.
  5. That's not right, heavier prop accelerates slower but one up to speed will turn at a speed determined by the power input and resistance to it which will be aerodynamic drag.
  6. To answer your question yes it can and does, a short in the motor can destroy the esc, just don't ask me how I know!
  7. Around 1% should be ideal, the effect of negative incidence would be significant up elevator trim to counteract it to get it to fly straight level thereby creating additional unwanted drag. 0 degree would be OK but again you would trim elevator up to sort it out, so if yo fly as much inverted as upright 0,0,0 can be a good set up.
  8. Some SBUS servo's can feedback telemetry and being SBUS they are all digital, most digital servo's however aren't SBUS and have no telemetry capability I don't think that even all SBUS servo's have telemetry capability just some that do.
  9. I agree 100% with what Jon says above and we both come from pretty much opposite ends of the spectrum, but I do use a lot of expo, but that's in a very specialist type of flying (pattern flying) where I really do want the controls very soft around centre. Same experience as Jon, most club type pilots fly with far too greater control movements making models very twitchy and difficult to keep on a straight line, the other advantage of setting the full aileron by the roll rate you want is that it's easier to exit rolls on point if the roll rate is consistent.
  10. Bit of both, squeeze some glue into the joint and also lightly coat the hinge, insert and wipe away excess with a damp tissue, also it doesn't bloom like cyno. I don't use Super Phatic just aliphatic from Deluxe Materials, you don't get time to hang about but time is sufficient to accurately align an aileron with the rest of the wing in my experience. Obviously make sure to give it a good pull test.
  11. I've always used aliphatic glue to glue on those hinges, CA can grab too quickly and allows minimum time for repositioning accurately whereas aliphatic gives you plenty of time to position exactly where you want, the fact that it wicks i.e. is a creeping glue to me seems to make it the perfect choice. Been doing that now for well over ten years on planes that have hundreds or even thousands of flights and haven't had a failure yet an that is on 2 meter aerobat's and 60CC gassers, constant flexing isn't a problem because you aren't flexing the glue.
  12. Nope, on your first point the other components (FET's, control chip Etc) may well get power from the main (motor power) battery, RX gets it's power from the battery connected to the RX exactly the same as when you use an ESC with a BEC but disconnect the red lead from it (but it still works) to stop it powering the RX and servo's. All I'm saying is don't throw it in the bin because it might work in the same way as an opto ESC i.e. needing a separate RX power supply. I think it's worth a try before binning it, that's all I'm trying to say.
  13. I agree which is why I said "if it's only the BEC circuit that has gone then they might still be able to be used as an ESC" If it's only the BEC that has blown I wouldn't write off the rest because ther are entirely disconnected circuits, it might well be inert (blown) but I'd still disconect the red wire, it either doesn't need it or definitely shouldn't have it. I agree, if I had faith in my equipment and instalation I would return it straightaway, this is only a suggested alternative to throwing it in the bin.
  14. It might also be that these ESC's are not entirely uselss, if it's only the BEC circuit that has gone then they might still be able to be used as an ESC with a bettery providing the power, just disconect the red lead from the ESC to the receiver, plug a battery into the RX and give the motor a test to see if it runs. May then not be a total lost cause.
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