adrian garnham

Ken I have just started looking into building a model railway as well. I'm going to a local model railway club meeting tomorrow evening and my main questions will be whether to go N gauge or OO I am leaning toward N gauge as you can fit so much more in a small space.

I have a basic ender 3 and the glass plate is a straight swap. It was certainly a game changer for me with regards to part adhesion

I use this print bed on my ender 3 https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07QL4WC4D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 No adhesive, roughening, hairspray or glue stick required. Just make sure your bed is level and get the nozzle as close to the bed as possible without touching. Also clean the bed with Isopryl Alcohol before every print. You will find the print sticks to bed until the bed has cooled to room temperature and then will just pull off ...

If you can upload the pdf to this page I will try and print it and see what happens ....

I use the website to load co-ordinates into a CAD program. I then cut wing cores using a homemade CNC foam cutter. If you were creating a tapered wing then I guess you could draw the plan view of the wing and measure the chord at each section. By changing the chord on the website it would give you a plot of each individual rib.

I find this site very useful: http://airfoiltools.com/plotter/index

I used the clear gorilla glue spread very thinly for the fuselage joints. Sanding in one direction across the joint seemed to work well. I filled any dings etc with lightweight filler before priming with acrylic primer.

Thank you for your comments. I think you are right although the photos make it look worse than it is. If the maiden goes OK and requires too much trim i'll redo the tailplane.

Almost finished. Just waiting for 60A ESC then I can play around with positioning for balance and then find someone to maiden it for me. If it flies I'll post a video ... if not then I guess its back to the drawing board !! Came out heavier than expected at almost 1.7 Kg

Dave funny you should mention that. I've had a similar problem recently. I purchased some One strike filler but had to get the gun version as they had no tubs in stock. Filled and sanded perfectly. I purchased another couple of tubes 2 weeks later and the consistency seemed more creamy. It hasn't dried as well as the first batch and when sanding seems to produce rolls of filler under the block ... as if it had PVA in it. Just going to pick up some Red devil from toolstation and give that a go.

You will need to download and install slicing software which will convert the stl file into a gcode file which the printer can use. The stl file you have downloaded from thingiverse is a 3d model of the object you wish to print. I have an ender 3 and use the following slicer software. https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura

I have an ender 3 version 2 and am very pleased with it. Takes a while to get everything dialled in but once that's done correctly I am very pleased with the results.

Fuselage sections glued together using clear gorilla glue. Now on to the sanding and finishing.

I use DC power supply function on the following battery charger from hobbyking with my CNC 4 axis foam cutter with great results. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-accucell-c150-ac-dc-10a-150w-touch-button-smart-balance-charger-us-plug.html?queryID=b702e9426399e20e10d7f75d661d8b10&objectID=79273&indexName=hbk_live_products_analytics The find the approx Voltage and amps I need for the length wire I am using I use this online calculator https://www.easycalculation.com/engineering/electrical/nichrome-wire-calculator.php I have attached a short video showing the power supply and setup on a piece of scrap 20210604_170343_Trim.mp4

CNC router in action 20210701_131350.mp4

Bit more progress today. Wings hot wired and pockets for servo and undercarriage cut using my CNC router.

Cut all the fuselage sections ready for gluing together ...

Finally made a start on the Buckeye. Fin and tail plane assembly completed Motor & retractable nosewheel mount completed Battery mount and wing brace assembly complete . Now I am testing out the 4 axis cnc foam cutter and fine tuning for correct wire speed, temperature and kerf allowance before cutting the fuselage sections and wings. 20210604_170343_Trim.mp4

Following my previous post .... I decided to redesign the provost (based loosely on Tony's balsa design) to accommodate a constant 50mm dia thrust tube and to ensure it would be light I made the fuselage and wings from hot wire cut foam. The resulting model doesn't look pretty as it is very experimental but it flies extremely well considering I have never designed a model aircraft before. All up weight including a 4s 2200 maH battery is 710g. Static thrust measured by placing the nose on a set of scales is 735g. I am using the same esc and powerfun EDF as before .... go figure.

Hi I am a member of SEMAS (south essex model aircraft society). We fly at two tree island and the field should be opening again soon.

Danny As I am designing this myself and the CAD program calculates the theoretical C of G for me I should be able to move the battery wherever I want. Fingers crossed LOL

Thank you Timo I was a little concerned about the thickness of the wing. I have looked at the SD6060 and will go with your recommendation. I'm changing the CAD this evening. Will post more info as I progress with the foam cutting.

Hi After watching a build and flight video on YouTube (Julius Perdana) showing construction of a Depron pusher prop Buckeye I thought I would have a go at designing my own version but using hotwire cut XPS foam sheets. I have made many balsa covered foam core wings in my youth (around 40 years ago !) and have designed and built a CNC hotwire foam cutter to use on this project. I have created a 3d model using CAD and unlike the Depron version I will be mounting the brushless motor at the front. Hopefully it won't detract from the appearance too much. Currently it is designed as follows: Wing span: 1200 mm Wing section: NACA 0015 symmetrical Wing Area: approx 0.27 square metres Airframe weight: approx 0.6 kg excluding motor and battery Expected flying weight: between 1.2 & 1.5 kg depending on battery size and whether I fit retracts or not Motor: Turnigy Aerodrive SK3-3536-1400kv V2 Prop: ? Esc: 60A Before I complete the design and start cutting foam I would welcome any feedback/comments on the above particularly with reference to the selected wing section, whether the motor will be powerful enough and suggestions for prop size etc.

Hi FlyinFlynn The cutting area can never be too big as you never know what you might want to cut. All joking aside, the bench where I keep it is 610mm deep. I tend to nest the parts in CAD first as you don't need to keep repositioning either the sheet or the laser head. It also makes best use of the sheet. The max size I have cut so far is one wing skin which was 3 100mm x 900mm sheets side by side (taped together ready for gluing) which contained cut-outs for the retracts and aileron servo access.

I haven't tried cutting EPP. I cut through soft 3.2mm balsa in 1 pass and hard 3.2 balsa in 2 passes at 450mm/min 3.2 plywood in 3 passes (150mm/min) although I usually use a cnc router for plywood. I've just purchased a NEJE 30W laser module (7.5 W output) from Banggood ... just printing off some parts to give that a try.