Shaun Walsh

Finish the Zero before you lose a vital part of the kit or something falls onto the part you have built already

4.75 to 5 inches from the leading edge I think.

I have a wattmeter but for a simple on the field check I just attach my voltmeter to the battery balance lead and open the throttle, you can see how much and how quickly the voltage drops and also check for cell balance.

To be fair, it doesn't matter whether you graduated last year or like me, over 40 years ago, a degree provides the core of knowledge that you then build on with work experience. Very often the book tells you how to do it right and people take short cuts because it's easier/cheaper, just wander round a new build house with a copy of the building regulations and you'll see what I mean. The real problem is the prevalence of useless degree courses designed to fund the university without any prospect of the student getting a decently paid job that uses the knowledge they gained doing the degree.

Indeed so, I missed that, ignore previous comments but it's still worth monitoring the voltage drop at full throttle to check to stste of the batteries.

If it started off ok I would guess that the batteries, if used singly, have been heavily worked, the model has a 130A esc and minimum recommended battery is a 6s 4Ah 30c which would indicate that it's likely that the motor makes good use of the ESC capacity. E-Flite suggest that lower capacity batteries are used in parallel which would be my first suggestion.

Just a thought, have you tried charging at a low current setting, around 0.5 Amps?

I have actually charged the type of battery you have had problems with without any issues.

2s tx battery

Set the charger to "charge" not "balance charge"

£2.40 for B&W A0 here plus postage A0 prints

I just searched for "how to fit fpv to rc plane" and there are a number of videos available. Don't forget you need a spotter too.

Sorry but that's a fat bloke being attacked by a pacman hairdresser.

At least you can remember hat you have forgotten it.

On the way to Buxton on the A6 there's a section of road works with the sign "cats' eyes removed" a bit further down the road there's a very good home made sign saying "mice very happy".

Try contacting Overlander direct. Overlander contact page

Personally I would go for one of these. 4-Max ESC

It might be worth running the battery under load with a voltmeter attached and monitoring each cells response to the load in terms of voltage drop. If 4 cells are 0.001Ohms and two are 0.031 ohms that's quite a big imbalance. May also be worth a couple of static flight simulation runs on the ground with balance charges between to see how the battery responds. If the IR increases more and the battery gets hotter/ more puffy it's probably time for the bin.

That's a VERY big Allen key

Sounds like wear in the gears or bearings, can you dismantle them and take a look? The replacements are on backorder at Hobbyking but if you can take them out and measure the dimensions you might find a pair that will fit, Hobbyking have a a few types.

Up and running and looking very nice

I have untinted varifocals for daily use, when flying I use polarised clip on sunglasses in good daylight, i.e sunny, if the conditions are fully overcast I find that yellow tinted clip on sunglasses enhance contrast

I used superphatic glue to glue the joiner bays as it is thin and is easily cleaned off areas where you don't want it. Also if any gets inside the socket for the joiner you can clean it out with a small artists brush before it sets. I thought of using epoxy but if any gets inside the socket it will be a devil to clean out. The bays went together ok but I still had to sand the joiners a bit so that they would slide in without too much force. I also assembled the bays and glued them onto the spar when they were dry, trying to glue all the parts to the shear web in one go would just have broken it again. You may have more luck with the less fragile shear web. Remember to spread out the kevlar thread so it's really thin and covers a good area of the bay, I used superphatic again to keep the profile as low as possible, no glue lumps sticking out above the thread. Good luck.

That's interesting, the shear webbing in your kit has the grain running the length of the spar, the one supplied with my kit had the grain vertically aligned which is why it broke so many times in assembly.

Agree, contrasting dark stripes help, on my gliders I fit I high intensity flashing led too