Dad_flyer

It is indeed not that critical. The dead spot is straight along the antenna wire, so as long as there is some angle between them the two antennas will cover each other's dead spot. The furthest from the same direction is 90degrees, so that is best, but it is not critical. 90 degrees to eachother has no reference to the model or receiver, it can be in any plane. Thinking about the best reception rather than the dead spot, the best reception is more like a ring donut with the antenna pointing up the hole. Two of those at 90degrees makes something like a sphere (or a jam donut). Reception is pretty much the same in all directions in that case, which is what we would like. Everyone managed with one antenna on 35MHz...

The underlying theory is that an antenna has a dead zone in the direction the wire is pointing. So a second antenna that is not pointing in exactly the same direction has a different dead zone. 90degrees is best, but the 90 degree pair can then be in any orientation.

I am watching with interest here, I have closed loop on a model that came to me built. I ought to re-do it, but I am shying away from it because of the crimping.

Free flight supplies do tube in sizes that slide together, but just looked and they only go to 4mm.

Skylarks going full volume today ?. Six good flights on my 62" Stik. It is a combination of the bits I liked the look of from several different plans. It has always seemed nice but maybe not quite right. Got someone better to have a fly today - nothing wrong with the model. That gave me more confidence, and with a couple of tips on what to try I made quite a bit of progress in rolls ? ? ? .

This happens to me as well (on mobile). I eventually found it has come up, but on the right of the thread column.

Pretty good there. You will need to get the CG forward to the plan position or it is a handful. I hot glued weight inside the cardboard cowl to over the motor. Stiffens up the cardboard and gets the weight forward. That was enough until I made it even more tail heavy.

How is the balance? I needed quite a bit of weight up front, but it was heavy foam board and over enthusiastic painting.

Down our way I think we had 13 power fixed wing, one Heli and one RC hand-launched glider, plus 6 chuckies. The rain just about held off, and it was at least dry for the photo. Great fun.

I shall do. The rudder comes to the end of its physical range before the end of the servo range, which is a pity because it is a waste of torque.

And so, 4 becomes 2. More than a month just to deal with a hinge and fit two servos! I did not even have to put in bearers or linkages, just screw them in. Both surfaces have too much movement. They are in the servo arm holes that they came to me in, and bringing them in any further they would bind on the clevises. I shall leave well alone there. The rudder really needs a longer plate for the plate with the pull-pull wires so that the servo could be outside the wire attachment.

It is morning, and the elevator does still move up and down. ?

Now just the long wait to see whether what should be stuck is loose, and what should move is actually stuck...

It has been flown a lot before me, on just the two hinges. But it does not seem to be a lot to hold a big surface so I'll put another one in. There is a pretty substantial bar on both sides of the hinge line, so there are no special places for the hinges. I thought I had lost the servo screws, but they turned up.

New hinges dry fitted Not too bad. I managed to get some slow epoxy at Easter, so that will glue them in. Is grease, oil or vaseline best on the hinge to keep the glue off?

Well, this is really moving slowly. However I bit the bullet today and it has gone pretty well. Cut the good hinge on broken side, and with some wiggling I was able to get that elevator half off the elevator joiner wire. That was a big relief as otherwise I had to take the other side off as well, and the rudder, and the closed loop wires... The Robart pins came out pretty easily. One pushed in (by mistake), two pulled out, one I had to drill out. It turns out that the hinges have been done before, one was off-centre because of a remaining stub. I am trying to get that stub out.

That is beautiful. Well done on the restoration.

As you already have a power supply, the Toolkit chargers do seem a lot better.

Mine has noisy fans as well.

I have got https://www.kingslynnmodelshop.co.uk/Chargers/c76/p13761/GT_Power_X4_Charger_4x100W_Charger-_Due_Early_Sept/product_info.html (I think it came from Kings Lynn) I use it AC at home, and DC from a LiFe leisure battery at the field. Four channels and four batteries keeps up with my flying, unless Child_flyer is there as well. It is convenient to carry around. I am pretty happy with it. The software is basic but functional. There seem to be two small bugs - to select 'up' 'down' you need to press different buttons in the main menu from the ones in all sub-menus - and if you press anything while the charger is doing its end-of-charge jingle then it will continue to beep loudly until you unplug it. The display gives information for only one battery, so you have to keep scrolling through. The discharge power is very limited, so it is certainly slow at home if I don't manage to fly all the batteries! I also find that each channel on this charger is slightly different on the individual cell balance. My other single channel chargers are slightly different again. I tend to have batteries in sets of four anyway, so I generally try to keep them each to the same port so they are at least balance consistently. The internal resistance measurement I don't think is as accurate as my Overlander charger.

Fly it and wear it out looooong before that ?. (Only dreaming. Not enough time or skill unfortunately)

This engine, or a brand new twin, V, flat, or inline with change for a secondhand model to fly it in? Hmmmm I wonder if the one-of-a-kind rare, fully original, cutting edge, prototype flat twin has the same appeal? The one in Jon's videos with the special hand-finished, two-piece open crankcase so that you can even see it work.

As I had dithered so long, the Hitec servo was out of stock, so I went with @Jon - Laser Engines for a Savox, the 352 as they did not have the 351. The 352 is not much more money and seems to be basically the same but higher torque.

I finally got my act together to do an order for ESC, servo and hinges. Nearly did not get the hinges, I did the order without them, but I called Nexus and they were excellent and combined a second order for the Robarts with the main order. I took @Ron Gray's advice on the Hobbywing ESC. They actually do 6s, 8s and HV versions. I was able to get the 120A 8s v5 version and save quite a lot compared to the HV. It comes with fitted motor sockets and a 10V 4500uF capacitor for the receiver, which is a nice extra.

Paper comes off the Hobbycraft board best with hot water. Heat on its own does not work, and cold water is not easy, but with warm or hot water it parts company pretty well. It is not very easy to take of the paper from only part of a sheet. As it is an art board, the paper seems to be coated and is very heavy. Taking paper off both sides halves the weight, but it is then much less stiff of course.