Stearman65

Hi Brian Packed in the hobby last year & sold the Storch kit.

Scroll saw now sold.

The radio is now back on Ebay. **LINK**

Posted by Stephen Smith 14 on 15/04/2019 18:38:54: Posted by Stearman65 on 13/04/2019 20:57:00: That's the worst advise I've ever seen on here. Why? If your not intelligent to work out what's happening perhaps you should stay clear of the internet all together. I've been using the internet probably before you were born, I know the pitfalls of advertising your email & phone number, obviously you don't.

Just added the Keil Kraft Outlaw plan pack. The radio will be re-listed tonight. **LINK**

Some idiot called P**** from Milton Keynes just bought the radio on Ebay using his phone, paid by Paypal but didn't include carriage, realised he had bought & paid for it, then emailed me to cancel it as he had made a mistake. So if you are looking for it, it isn't sold, yet!!!!

Whoops, forgot the radio. **LINK**

**LINK** **LINK** **LINK** **LINK** **LINK**

Posted by Stephen Smith 14 on 13/04/2019 19:18:12: If you want people to contact you add your email and phone number, very easy to weed out the scammers from the email wording, others that phone are usually not scammers but would be easy to weed out with a couple of modelling questions. If your not sure about an email contact ask him to ring or give you his number, that soon sorts um. That's the worst advise I've ever seen on here.

I too am having trouble with the classifieds site. I have a number of things on there for sale, but only allow possibles to contact via BMFA. I've had 5 enquiries for the same item, when I reply I get a bounce back, so In one instance replied to the enquirers email address which they had provided. He replied but there was no sale. IMO the BMFA classifieds system is a mess, stuff sells well but the admin is atrocious. Complained twice but no reply.

Wilco do a lightweight filler. Someone mentioned it on here so I bought some when I was building the TF Stinson. Easy to use, & CHEEEEEEEEEEP. **LINK**

As I've virtually run out of red film I've been planning a trip to Steve Webb's my LMS to pick up some red Orastick, which is the self adhesive version of Oracover. I've just had a look on Oracover's web site & was a little concerned at one of the warnings on the various types of Orastick. They don't recommend using the metallic colours where the receiver aerial is below. I've heard this mentioned before when using silver or aluminium coloured film, but not on antique or normal metallic colours. That's why I flagged this up. You can read their words using the attached link. **LINK**

I have a Keil Kraft Outlaw on my to do list. I collected some transparent coloured film from Solarfilm's sales office near Wigan a couple of weeks ago. It's called Solite & available in lots of colours, transparent or opaque. **LINK**

You could check with Electricwingman he sells them? **LINK**

Doesn't time fly when you aren't up to scratch. Had other things on my mind for a few days, with health problems, sorting the new camera & preparing for our "Les Mis' " night this Saturday. I was going to fit the revised wing fixings I'd devised, but when I put the parts together, I'd miscalculated the screw length, too short, so I need to order replacements after finishing this blog. Didn't really feel like adding more Orafilm but couldn't think of anything else so I've covered one of the sides, the one without to infamous door seemed easiest, so after cutting a length of the red Orafilm (still prefer Solarfilm) I tacked around the edges, then shrunk over the balsa side. Next the fiddly bit, the window openings. With a new scalpel blade, I sliced off the excess, leaving enough to cover the bare wood in the openings. Then made slits around the radius & gradually eased the film into place with the iron. The second window went better (sods law), but not the best I've done before. In retrospect, it may have looked better if I'd filmed the openings first. Running out of red film, may have to make a trip to Steve Webb's in Frodsham shortly.

Take a look at my Pilatus Porter P6 blog. In it I start using covering film after a 20 year layoff. Start on the last page of the blog & the post 8.3.19. I'm using Orafilm for the 1st time after starting with Solarfilm when it first appeared. **LINK**

I decided to order a second set of plans so I could cut my own parts. To cut a long story short, the plans I received were 25mm short of 2m span, so the seller sent me 2 sets of corrected plans for the price of 1, so I have one set at 25mm short of 2m going begging. They are in a mailing tube & 3 sheets. Anyone interested PM me. I think they could be the Sid Morgan version that Belair offer a short kit minus plans?

Posted by Chris Freeman 3 on 20/03/2019 05:30:18: These are the videos of the flight: https://youtu.be/AaMCE_pWQ4ch ttps://youtu.be/9y6Mi67jCkM **LINK** **LINK**

Laundry & new camera & helping the wife make a couple of iron socks took up most of yesterday. This morning waiting for a delivery, so it was after lunch when I got around to some proper modelling. I decided to try the red Orafilm for a change & cut a piece to fit the bottom of the fuselage as per the manual. Removed the reinforcing metal band on the front bulkhead, fired up the iron with a new sock & tacked around the edges, sliced off the excess film with a scalpel blade, smoothed down the cut edge then shrunk between the edges. All in all a success with the iron at a lower setting, couple of ripples where ply & hardwood were covered, may need extra heat on those. Not sure this is as good as the Solarfilm I remember? More tomorrow.

Sunday's supposed to be a day of rest? Not for us, after a cooked breakfast, the Andrew Marr show, followed by the highlights of the Australian GP, I managed to fit in some gentle modelling. I had some useable strips of white Oratex left, so I decided to cover the wing struts. After clearing the bench, I assembled the parts & tools, plugged in the iron & cut the first strip. The wing struts are made from some sort of hardwood & after the problems I'd had with seams opening on the ailerons, I decided to turn down the heat on the iron a few degrees before starting.. I tacked a cut strip at each end of the strut, then sealed each side. Finally, smoothing down the centre, "seamed ok", (pun intended). I then repeated the process on the other side, but one of the overlaps shrunk too much & opened the seam. So I turned the iron down a tad more, & tackled the second strut, better this time. It appears the balsa absorbs the heat better than ply & hardwood, so in future, I'll use two separate settings. Finally, I tried the TF woodpecker substitute, found the wheel too loose & couldn't do a straight line. Luckily, the wheel was mounted with a nut & bolt & I was able to tighten it & get the pressure I wanted. One problem, the sock on the iron has developed a hole, possibly a sign I had it too hot. Will have to get my resident seamstress to knock up a couple more, that reminds me, she hasn't done the lipo straps yet An hour to go before the GP & I've managed to avoid seeing the result, go for it Lewis

At the other end of the spectrum, I've been looking around for a camera. The three biggest retailers I have bought from previously, had one or more in stock. I'm talking about Amazon Jessops & Wex. I also wanted to buy a few ancillaries with the camera such as a memory card, bag & a spare battery. I had whittled the dealers down to two, Amazon & Jessops. When I totted up the cost with ancillaries, Amazon came out cheapest, so I proceeded with the order. On the last page before I pressed the final button, Amazon told me "they were giving me a 20 day trial of Prime" I didn't want prime as a few years ago I inadvertently took them up on a free trial, I think it was a book club. Unbeknown to me the trial didn't automatically expire & I paid a fee for 12 months before realising what was going on, I hadn't bought anything after the expiry of the free trial. Eventually I got my 12 months payments back. Back to prime, Amazon had done this before a couple of years ago, eventually I got them to cancel the Prime trial automatic payment.. I was so p****d off with Amazon I cancelled the whole order & went with my second choice which cost me a few £'s extra, but with the satisfaction I wasn't being manipulated by Amazon. Back to 4Max, after reading all the OP's posts, I think there is more in this than meets the eye. IMO 4Max are one of the better dealers I've dealt with including, Steve Webb & Leeds Model shop.

Back in 2005/6 I built the Flair Stearman. I don't know if the build is anything like the moth but I've dug out a few pics of the wing fixings just in case they may help..

The day after my trip to Solarfilm, I set to trying to fit the kit supplied horns rods & links to the ailerons. This was the first real problem I've had with the kit, IMO they are rubbish & I ended up drilling into the gap between the nail & finger with a 1.5mm drill, owch!!! which could have put me off for life. The problems with the components, the rods were like piano wire & coated with some substance which made then difficult to bend & cut. The quick links were practically impossible to thread onto the rods due to the coating & undersized holes compared to the rod thread. The horns had the same problems & I resorted to drilling them to fit. One however, broke as I was trying to thread it onto the wire peg, The 3 holes in the horns were practically impossible to align with the threaded bases, the holes again were too tight & had to be drilled to get the screws to tighten up, which is where I had the accident with the drill, which has taken 3 days to heal to allow me back to the building board. On the bright side, the substitute woodpecker arrived & looks ok, have only tried it on paper but it is really sharp. The screws & wing nuts I am substituting for the suggested method of holding the wings on arrived, unfortunately I ordered M5 & looking at them in the flesh, they should be M3 which I've re-ordered. On another matter, since I re took up modelling. I sold my & my wife's top of the range video & still cameras & have been using two bottom of the range substitutes. I've been heavily into digital photography since 2007 & had a digital camera since 1993 & I've missed the quality images I used to produce. So after doing some research on current Panasonic bridge cameras, of which I've previously owned 2, the FZ150, which allowed my to keep more of my images than any of the more expensive Nikon & Canon DSLR's I've owned, & latterly when the FZ150 started to wear out, the FZ1000, which I found almost as heavy as a DSLR & soon lost interest & went over to solely video with a VXF990, which I used twice preferring my wife's Sony CX405. However none of those take decent still images. I had some credit with Wex so I used it on a Canon Ixus 185, which I've been using on my blogs as it's handy to wear in a belt pouch, but again misses out on the quality images I've been used to & I'm having to edit them extensively to get something decent. After all that, I've crashed the rest of what I got for the Ka8b, plus a bit more on another bridge camera, the Panasonic FZ330, which has a similar spec to my previous FZ1000, without the massive zoom which I rarely used, plus lots of bells & whistles. So hopefully, that will arrive Monday & I can improve my blog images.

Posted by Failed Flyer on 14/03/2019 18:48:17: On plan RM287 RM Trainer I can't find the ailerons, elevator and rudder settings. Looking at the Aerobat plan RM 285 the deflections for a beginner are ailerons 1/4in up. 3/16in down, elevator 3/8in each way, rudder 3/4in each way. Measuring from the RM Trainer plan would suggest ailerons 1/4in each way, elevator 3/8in each way and rudder 3/4in each way. I guess the actual dimensions were in the original build text. Can anybody confirm what they were intended to be for a beginner?...Thank you. Why not ask the people at DB Sport & Scale? **LINK** Edited By Stearman65 on 14/03/2019 23:17:06