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Chris King 3

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  1. I had seen that some people had used the balance plug but I was a bit concerned about running down one cell more than the others. I thought using the BEC output would solve that but also have concerns that anything going wrong with the RunCam could stop the receiver etc working.
  2. Hi, Apologies if this has been covered before, I did do a search but couldn't find anything. I have a RunCam2 and was wondering if I could power it from the receiver or more accuratley from the BEC of the Esc? Main reason is to reduce weight so I can mount it further forward on a Crash Test Hobbies Pinata wing. I wondered if anyone has sucessfully done this?
  3. Hi, Apologies if this has been covered before, I did do a search but couldn't find anything. I have a RunCam2 and was wondering if I could power it from the receiver or more accuratley from the BEC of the Esc? Main reason is to reduce weight so I can mount it further forward on a Crash Test Hobbies Pinata wing. I wondered if anyone has sucessfully done this?
  4. I can cut foam very effectively now but haven't had a huge amount of success with my chosen wing. I'm trying to build a scaled down Scimitar Slo Motion so I can use some batteries and brushless motor and controller I already have. The problem is with the taper of the wing which makes it hard to get the wire moving evenly over the distance of the formers. I'll either 1) Get someone to help or 2) Go for a plank wing without taper. Happy with my setup though, works really well. I'm using 32swg Nichrome wire and bought EPO foam from Wickes for about £15 and chopped into two pieces in the car park! I'm the mean time I got impatient and bought a Crash Test Hobby Pinata (flying wing) from the States. A friend who flys out of the same local field as me has bought one too so we can fly combat for a laugh. They are EPP foam which you cant seem to get in the UK anyhow. Will probably take a careful note of the dimensions and airofoil section so I can reproduce it in EPO in the future though! ?
  5. Just as an update and to let anyone else know who's going through a similar process, I thought I'd just quickly see what the more powerful transformer would do without any way of reducing the power and it barely warms the wire! It doesnt matter how powerful it is at 12V it still isnt going to get the wire hot. Based on what Piers said above about a variable voltage supply for laptops etc I dug out an old one I had that goes up to 19V. Works like a dream and you can vary the power very nicely by selecting the different voltages. Perfect.
  6. Some useful (and amusing!) advice, many thanks. I've got a few things to try now. Working it out is half the fun tbh.
  7. The original power supply was 12V at 30A but was DC so had some other electronics involved as well/instead of a transformer. Measured the Volts from the new transformer using the dimmer and is always below 8V even when turned fully up. The usable length of the wire (where the connectors are) is about 700mm but theres 1M of wire so could play around with changing lengths. Have some different thicknesses too and am on the thinest currently which is 32swg.
  8. I'm using nichrome wire but it's a pretty beefy transformer and I'm worried it will melt the wire if I use it without some way of controlling the power.
  9. Hi, I've built a foam wire cutter and have tried various power sources that I already had. I was controlling the temperature by using a dimmer on the mains side of the power supply. Even with the dimmer out of the circuit it didnt quite get hot enough to cut well. Was a bit slow which caused the wire to drag. So I thought I needed more power so bought a 100VA 240-12V Torroidial transformer. My problem is that my dimmer wont work with inductive loads so I need a different dimmer. Ive see this Variable Voltage Regulator which looks like it would do the job well https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393140331113?hash=item5b88fd6269:g:FSgAAOSwQbVe12JC but wondered if it would be better (and more cost effective) to vary the power on the 12V side of the transformer with a 12V AC Speed Controller? Just wondered what others do.
  10. The shaft sticks out the back of the motor through the motor mount you can see above. To mount the prop saver onto the shaft I would have to push the shaft through the motor so it sticks out the front where the prop adapter is in the picture. The prop adapter is held on with bots. The problem is, I dont want to do that so want to know if the prop saver onto the prop adapter.
  11. Thats the motor with the prop adapter And thats the prop saver. The prop adpter shaft is 5mm and there's a 5mm prop saver available.
  12. Hi, I hope someone can help with a question about using a prop saver. I'm just about to order a Pinata from Crash Test Hobbies and they sell a prop adapter for a rear mounted motor. My motor of preference (Airmax 2836/1120kv) has a 4mm shaft but also a 5mm prop adapter bolted to the front of the motor. My question is, is it OK to mount a prop saver to a prop adapter (with the shaft cut to size of course)? That would be my preferred configuration because mounting direct to the shaft would mean pushing the shaft through the motor which I want to avoid. I can add pictures if this isnt clear. Thanks in advance, Chris
  13. Well I've been doing a lot more reading than building! Had a good look at flying wings but theres lots of decisions to make there. Pusher prop, tractor prop and they look like they can be tricky to setup correctly. I found plans for the Little Plank III which looks quite interesting. Also came across the Simitar again which kc mentioned earlier on and I'd discounted because it looked to complex. Far from it, they are pretty simple and I like the fact that they were designed for foam core wings even though they cover with ply or balsa. The ability to fly in higher winds is what I'm looking for. Trouble is there's loads of variants to choose from! Only one was designed for electric and I saw somewhere that one wasnt the best flyer. I'm also intrigued with the concept of getting some kind of flaps on a wing.
  14. Its probably a question for another forum but does anyone know if you include the elevon when putting wing dimensions into a flying wing CofG calculator (if you are just adding them behind the airfoil profile)?
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