Dean Hunter

Hi Folks - just spent an hour and got nowhere!! The most I have achieved is the prop turns slowly!! Can I have options please? But presented as a total idiots guide....

The advice sounds good. Some of which I have tried - but most I haven't. Will get back to you all

Rx AR6335, E-flite 10amp ESC, DX7s Bind plug in Rx Battery plugged in Rx flashes, DXts switched on binding Rx light goes constant Rudder Aileron etc work, motor does not!!!!! System beeps..... So what is the problem? The control surfaces all move as the should but the but "twitches" Would a faulty ESC be the problem? Any advice very welcome

Mike - looks fabulous Dean

Hi Mike - looks good. I am a little behind with my build, partly due to waiting for balsa wood, being on lockdown and having an excess of time, and more importantly having two models on the go - the second model is the SLEC Fun fly ( which goes together much quicker than the Taurus) I have just added top TE sheeting on both P&S wings - progress. Cheers Dean

Congratulations Mike I have made progress with the fuselage - I too have a nice thick piece of balsa for the turtle deck...... I will sand that to shape outside. I have just started laying up the tail, not looking forward to sanding all the little ribs - the whole model does seem over complicated? The Taurus is very much a builders model. Regards Dean

Well done Mike. You made it sound quite straightforward ..... Originally I imagined damping/bending/glueing each of the 3 sheets individually, joining all three and then fixing the complete LE as a single unit seems to be the way to go? I will ask around for a VAX - it seems to have helped. Thanks for the post.

Has any one got a copy of the building instructions for the Ed Kazmirski Taurus? Can someone point me in the right direction please?

Agreed 70' span is a bit big, I will consider scaling it down to 70" The trim bar looks a bit 'Heath Robinson' but seemed to work - providing the model survived the maiden flight? I think the scabs are for joining sheets pre cyano........ I think sheet as wide as 6" is available from SLEC? It should keep me busy over the winter months? Thanks

I am going to build the "Taurus" an Ed Kazmirsky. A 70' 1970's pattern ship. Two things of interest (i) a phenolic trim bar (ii) L.E. scabs. I have Googled the first, its the second thats has me confused!! They are located under the leading edge top wing sheeting. Its possible that they are inserts that join two sheets? Tho why not a single sheet? Any thoughts appreciated ......

Denis/John I fly i/c.So CG will change during flight. The manual says 70mm +/- 10mm, tho some manuals for the same model say lower and some flyers suggest 125mm. I will start about 70mm ands how it goes, moving the CG back is easier than moving it forward. Many thanks.

I have a BH Pitts S2 (60" The instructions are confusing re the CoG. Web search suggests that the CoG position can vary hugely ??? Has anyone any experience of this models CoG?

I recently spoke to an expert (50years experience) while having my DX7S repaired. He tested the power output of my Tx he described it as useable but borderline!! I do the range test as per the manual - in his words not a true test of the power output as the test drops the power output as part of the 30m range test. If the power output while flying is low then the range test is obviously not a true reflection of power output!! His reasoning for this reduction in power output is poor quality components over time, with a corresponding early failure and decreasing efficiency A trend that is on the increase. Does this explain the odd 'glitch' in the air? I am no expert - so any thoughts appreciated.

Many useful comments. Thanks

Many thanks for the replies - very helpful.