Vince Findlay

In my honest opinion I would go for the kit built Wot, I built my one about 20 Odd years ago and was definitely one of my most flown aircraft..250* flights, It never let me down..only plane I’ve ever landed backwards against a heavy wind in full control ? Also I can make it look unique when you cover it ATB ?

Nice looking SE5 A?..Definitely one of my favourite WW1 aircraft ?

Some more progress on the fuselage. The tail wheel brackets, side formers and stringers are fitted. Just temporarily pinned in the the top formers to get an idea of the shape of things to come ? I’ll be working on the front bulkhead area ducting next. Then join and glass the wing panels so I can finish the wing seating, dowel locations and wing fixing bolts.

Hi Cymaz, The tail on my T240 was just epoxied on permanently. I covered the tail plane first then cut off the film where it sat on the fuselage. I didn’t brace it but that would suit the model. I first flew it with a 10cc two stroke glow then a SC 108 and when eventually get round to refurbishing it I will put in my Laser 180. The Dle 30 should ideal for it. I’ve had my one for 27yrs..where does time go??

Perttime, I had another look at the 66” air racing Yak and I bet it would be great with a 120 four stroke, Definitely going to see my one through to completion before I think of my next project…it’s so easy to get side tracked with this great hobby ?

Just working on the fuselage frame up, really impressed with the laser cutting accuracy to the plan.

Thanks, I have seen the Chez Mate and Perastroika racing versions of Chad’s design on Rcu and they look great, I think the builders just modified the existing plans? I remember seeing a 66” span one as well, but I’m not sure if the plans are available. I will be building the two seater version as per plan. I will have a go at making a plug and vac forming my own canopy later, it’s quite long so I will probably do it in sections.

Thanks for the info Martin, Both fuels have the same 5% nitro and I expected to have to adjust the needle a bit for the different oil content. I was just worried after running the engine with the needle half a turn leaner on the new fuel and it still sounding ritch I was doing something wrong. I will try a tacho the next time to see the difference. Thanks again for the info, I have used MT fuel over the years many times and it was spot on. Just the 1st time I’ve used it here and I wandering if anyone else had changed between the same fuels.

Thanks for the info Denis, It just felt strange I had to re tune the engine for so much for a different fuel.?

Just a quick question about running Model Technics Low oil 5% in Lasers. I’ve been running my 180 single on Optifuel four stroke mix for a couple of years without any issues. Same plug and didn’t touch the carb in that time. I tried the MT fuel and it started 1st time and sounded great on the ground and never quit but sounded rich and felt underpowered. The next couple of flights after that I leaned the carb a quarter of a turn each flight to see if it made any difference, but didn’t. I reset the carb and tried three fills of the old fuel and the engine is pulling like a train again. Any advice guys?

Thanks Dale, Just laying out some of the fuselage this morning. Hoping to get the basic frame work done within the next week.

Both wings are now sheeted with the wing tips and laminated leading edges fitted and sanded. The tail plane and fin are sheeted and the rudder and elevator cores were made up over the plans. I’ve put these to one side just now and will join the wing panels later. I’ve started the fuselage by making up the rear trusses and looking out the the formers. Cheers Vince

Here is a colour scheme I was thinking about, There are a lot of them to choose from so i might change my mind before then?

The first wing panel is now sheeted, This is done on a saddle supplied in the kit to keep it true and set the washout etc. I used sandbags to weigh it down while everything dried. The airline and servo leads were also run and taped in first. I also tried a servo tester for the 1st time while checking the flap servo...I wish I had this piece of kit years ago to save using the receiver etc. Got this one from the Steve Webb models for a tenner. Next to set up the wing jig and get the second wing to the same stage, Laminate the leading edges and fit and sand the wing tips ?

The engine sounds great, Definitely would suit an inline warbird. Wonder how it would sound with straight through exhaust pipes ?

Nice idea with the sanding block for the 10mm recessed ply, I’ll try that on my build. I also like the idea of using sandbags as weights. I live next to a beech and will borrow ? some freezer bags from the kitchen. Nice build Btw. Vince

Some more progress with the wing. The retract bearers are epoxied in after checking they sit correct in both positions. The flaps are finished and the aileron cores are started. The plans show enclosed flap servos but I will make them accessible the same as the aileron ones before final sanding and running servo leads and airlines for the retracts before final sheeting. Vince

Hi I’ve had the plans and laser cut kit for the Yak for a while now gluing a bit now and again between house moves etc. So thought I would share my progress so far now that I have more room to build it. The plans were drawn by Chad Veich, They are part of the Bates plans range and I got my copies through Fighteraces and the laser cut kit was from Belair Kit cutters here in the UK. The model spans 82” and I have a Zenoah 45 which will easily fit in the 11” Diameter cowl. I will be using Robart 631 RS air retracts and 673 Robostruts. Vince

Jon, How about an in-line twin for a start but offset the cylinders for cooling purposes and the noise from the off firing cylinders should be great?.. I’ve realised... As a machinist this completely would change the current use of valve gear for both singles and twins. How about putting the a substantial Cam on the side of the engine and using that to drive the propeller..Also giving you 2 to 1 reduction?.. I’m sure you could easily make it a triple set up? Using your 80 bore and stroke? But using your 120–180 size fins in that set up would be Awesome! As a machinist I know it’s very important to keep the parts count down for profitability....And reliability... Just my few penny’s worth.... Getting back to reduction drive, Would it require the same hand props? If geared, Would we have lubricate the gears with grease now and again? (For most model flying I know a coating of Molikote Would be more than enough) Ath Vince

I just re read my post..of course the reduction has to be geared down 😂 Atb

Hi Jon, The Idea of retro fitting a reduction drive sounds very interesting. The reason being I’m away to start building a Jerry Bates Yak 11. Estimated weight 20+ lbs, It has a 11” cowl and the engine I was going to use for it was my Laser 180. I have had about 20+ flights with it in my light weight and streamlined Seagull Chipmunk and it has more than power for that. Recently I have been thinking the Yak would need a bit more, 300V or 360V. The extra weight wouldn’t be a problem. I know this is R&D and everything needs to be tested, But do you think the 180 with reduction would be more than enough for the Yak? Would the reduction be geared? Requiring an opposite hand prop or belt driven? Price wise..?. .I'm a CNC machinist to trade and know about set up times, Large batches are always more efficient! As for a multi glow... It’s got to be a radial, 3 or 5 cylinder. The 5 using your small cylinder heads the 3 cylinder using either big or small ones. as for testing I’m not flying this year but I have got a 20+ year old President T240 as a hack I can bolt anything on but I’m not flying until next year. All the best with your R&D Vince

Hi Murat, I just noticed your post and this thread is almost 4 years old now. As far as an electric conversion for the President T240 set up (Motor, Prop, Esc, Battery pack..etc)...I don't know, But I'm sure you will be given great and up to date advice from the guys here. ( My preference are still fours stroke IC).....I might get converted to a leccy powered glider one day ... I had a T240 way back in 1994 Flew it on a SC108 two stroke, Great flyer, I still have the air frame (still In my Dad's loft..somewhere?) but the engine was passed on to one of my mates..a long...long time ago. I see from one of your earlier posts you mentioned Aberdeenshire model shops, Where do yo fly from? ATB Vince

Hi ARC, The Saito 21 Petrol should be ideal for the Chippy. On hindsight on the inlet I could have just deepened the original inlet a bit and had a curved baffle from the inlet around to the cylinder head and barrel. Also on the bottom left the cylinder head covered and the same baffle and outlet at the rear....I just didn't want to cook my new engine. I really like flying the Chipmunk, I didn't need any added nose weight to balance it, It's nice and aerobatic and also can be flown slowly. It's the only model I've ever flown that hasn't needed any elevator mixed in when applying full flaps for landing. All the best with your Chippy and maiden. Vince

Hi ARC, My thoughts were the same as yours when looking at the cowl inlet, especially because my engine (Laser 180 4 stroke ) had only been bench ran a couple of times. I've read a few times before that the inlet area can be a lot smaller than the outlet and I could have used a baffle but the Laser takes up most of the cowl depth so I opened up the front quite a bit...Far from scale! (you don't notice in flight) I cut out most of the bottom of the cowl and have a curved aluminium baffle behind the engine to help the air to exit...I also reinforced the firewall area with carbon tows and epoxy. I know the model is way over powered with the Laser 180 and a 100 or 120 would be more like it! But the Chipmunk flys great and is ideal for running in the engine...Flys on a fast tick over and goes vertical with a 18 x 10 Prop... Vincehttps://youtu.be/vrsjHoO-SVU