Skippers Walker

Thanks for the information Robin. I've recently made contact with Josh Finn of J&H Aerospace USA and they may be a possible supplier of the required materials/modern plans. I also checked your suggestions on the Outerzone site and found them interesting too. Indoor Micofilm modelling is certainly very popular in the States with many of the disiplines taught and encouraged through school science activities. Thanks again for your input. SW

I'm looking for suggestions please for suppliers/contacts in the Uk of this type of specialist model? Many suppliers are in the USA but the delivery costs exceed the price of a typical complete well tried model kit.(e.g Kits at about 35 dollars but delivery 50 dollars!) In anticipation Skippers Walker

I'm looking for suggestions please for the best suppliers/contacts in the Uk for this type of specialist model? Many suppliers are in the USA but the delivery costs exceed the price of a typical complete well tried model kit.(e.g Kits at about 35 dollars but delivery 50 dollars!) In anticipation Skippers Walker

I believe that Chris Foss will may supply a plan for this model that could help you? He sent me a copy for my part built Multiphase last year. (original plan lost years ago!)

eBay offer a myriad of suppliers of nuts bolts and many other fixings in small quantities of all shapes and sizes. Suggest that you try there. SW

Brilliant comments thanks. That settles my friendly argument with a colleague.....I had supported the 'flange at the bearer' idea, thus preventing the over tightening issue discussed. Happy flying SW

Please settle a friendly discussion about whether the little metal inserts provided with some servos, should be inserted from the base of the 'rubber' mount or the top (screw entry end) All comments welcome? SW

I tend to agree with most of the responses on this subject and discharge any used or fully charged battery to a 'storage level' (about 53% on my charger/discharger). I've never had any marked deterioration in the batteries during several years of use."If it ain't broke don't fix it" I guess? Cheers SW

I've purchased and used a number of Corona Servos in recent years with absolutely no operating issues. I always trawl the market to check for a seemingly reliable supplier and prices before ordering. UK and Chinese suppliers are numerous on the internet. Good luck SW

You are right Matty, at last the penny has dropped in my rather tired brain. I used your suggestion of setting a high value in flap switch position 2 (fully down). When moving the switch to flap down position 1 (half flap), the corresponding elevator movement does appear to be 1/2 the value at position 2. A straight line! I'll certainly look at using P.MIX 4 programme (preferred by Dave Greer), at some stage and experiment with the results from various inputs. For simplicity's sake for now, I'll fine tune the achievable settings using the FLP-ELE MIX and carefully fly the model at height and try to find a happy medium for the two Flap down positions. Thanks again for your guidance, very helpful Happy flights SW

Thanks again Matty. Re the current mix response that I've achieved; with a 'Rate' set at 15% I appear to get a small elevator down movement in flaps down Pos 1 (about 1/2 flap) and at full flap Position 2, the elevator down movement has incrementally increased ...possibly to 15%?. I'll have to experiment more. The folk that I fly with are predominately Spektrum users and therefore the programming on their TX's is quite different to Futaba's approach. I do find the manual for my R/C kit written in a tad Chinese/English at times. The old and limited Fleet system mixes were all achieved with manual slider switches in the rear of the TX Such is progress. SW

I now begin to understand Matty. I've just tried your suggestion, setting 15% as a nominal down elevator mix to Flap down position 1. Without touching the 'OFFSET' setting I appear to be getting a slightly increased down elevator mix when selecting full down on the Flaps. I haven't quite figured out what effect changing the 'OFFSET will have. At present the values in offset visually change from -100% (-100%) when the flaps are fully raised, -100% (0%) at flap down 1 and 100% (+100%) when flaps 2 are fully down. I apologise for appearing rather dumb about all this but the T6K is my first modern TX since graduating from a Fleet 35MHz system from the 1970's! I'm approaching 80 now and a bit slow in absorbing the modern tech but very willing to keep trying. Thanks for your patient explanation about the issue. Thanks also to the other folk for their well intentioned offerings about my question😁 SW

Thanks Matty I'll give your suggestion a try 🤔SW

Hmm! I just wanted to set say 5% down elevator for flap down position 1 and say 8% down elevator for flap down position 2 (full down). The flying videos suggest an 'up nose' ballooning effect when any flap is applied. Still confused, perhaps best to leave well alone and try and compensate with manual input of down elevator? SW

I have the flaps set up to operate on a 3 position switch (C) Channel 5 on my Futaba T6K TX. Please is there anyone that can provide a simple to understand method of mixing the Flap/Elevator to prevent 'ballooning' when the flaps are lowered incrementally? I have a manual but I'm getting a bit confused as to how to set the required values during the two down flap positions. Thanks SW

I certainly endorse Tom Gaskin's comment about rigorous cleaning to ensure a good solder joint. For the heavier gauge wire I often use silver solder, flux and a gas torch to make a really strong 'bind'. Again cleaning the materials is absolutely paramount for success. Good luck Basil, try a few practice joints too before attempting the real thing? SW

Is it yet possible to download and install latest Futaba upgrades using a Mac computer? I can only find information about using Windows software, much of it quite old. Thanks SW

Thanks for all the comments, I've eventually ordered a stepped reamer, there appears to be quite a supply problem around the model shops?. Plenty of 'Great Planes' reamers in the US but the cost is transport costs are prohibitive! Cheers for now SW

Which tool is best for reaming propellers please: Tapered or Stepped? I have to create a 3/8" (10mm approx) in a 15x8 nylon/plastic prop.

Thanks Ace for your contribution, I've a 60A and an 80A ESC in my workshop, so it looks like the 80A maybe the choice to make. I'll have to save up for a Watt meter me thinks! kind regards SW (Chris)

Yes of course you are right Davey about amps vs mahs, stupid typo on my part, thanks for your response.

The chosen power unit for this model is a Surpass C5055 600Kv with a 4S 3300 Lithium battery. My issue is which sensible ESC unit should be used with this motor? Confusion has arisen because when researching suitable information about ESCs to use, one source suggested a 60 mah, another 80 mah and a third 100 mah! Considering that gentle flight characteristics of this large model can any one solve my dilemma based upon practical experience please?

Hi Mike I started building F/F models in the 1950's so I do agree with you that we then powered up, put a bit of left or right trim on the rudder tab and launched! With a bit of luck the model would assume a gentle circling flight pattern and stay within sight for recovery down wind. If I could have afforded a Falcon in those days I guess that it would have had a 10cc petrol or diesel up front. I think that I'll start off with zero/zero and as it's a gentle model see what happens from that point. I did electrify a Junior 60 a couple of years ago and eventually found that a trifle of down thrust certainly helped. Trial and small error I hope. The Falcon has been a very long build for me but I'm really hoping to finish it within the next couple of months and to fly it during the coming summer. I'll keep you posted with progress. Cheers for now SW (Chris)