Steve Nash 1

I love the LMA Cosford show too, shame it's not on again. It's great to see different planes flying at the LMA shows rather then the usual stuff that seems to be at every other airshow around. Yes it is also a shame about W&W not being at North Weald any more, I live in South Essex and even though it hasnt been the best of the shows lately, it was nice to have an event not too far away for a change and do a bit of shopping round the trade stalls. How about the BMFA Nationals, is that on this year does anyone know? Thats another of my faves. Thanks MattyB, I will open it up and take a look 👍

I love the LMA Cosford show too, shame it's not on again. It's great to see different planes flying at the LMA shows rather then the usual stuff that seems to be at every other airshow around. Yes it is also a shame about W&W not being at North Weald any more, I live in South Essex and even though it hasnt been the best of the shows lately, it was nice to have an event not too far away for a change and do a bit of shopping round the trade stalls. How about the BMFA Nationals, is that on this year does anyone know? Thats another of my faves.

Oh no, thats my last hope of getting to a show dashed. Had four planned weekends away- LMA Cosford, Wings&Wheels, BMFA Nats and this RCM&E fly-in. All cancelled due to this damn virus. I want it to go away now. Cant we just delete the rest of 2020 and start again in 2021? 😕☹️

I agree with the warm lipos idea. I was sceptical about it until I tried it myself. There were four of us down our club field last autumn, and we were all flying edf models. Everyone was flying with cold battery packs and they were all getting about 2 minutes less flight time and a noticable reduction in power, myself included. I had kept one of the packs warm all the way from home as an experiment, and when I used it the difference was quite literally astonishing. It had bags of power on tap and I got the full usual flight time. I have also done the same warm lipo experiment with indoor flying and I actually got more than double the flight time than with a cold lipo. I now have an insulated sandwich bag with a small hot water bottle inside to keep my packs just a bit warm. But NOT TOO HOT as that would be bad.

HOORAY !!!!!! magazine turned up today. Happy now.

Still no sign of my magazine yet. It's in the shops though, so might not bother with subscription next year and just buy it from WH Smiths instead. Good job its cheaper than off the shelf or I might throw a tantrum.

The drones I mentioned are, of course indoor fpv flying, which is good fun when on lockdown. If you meant a drone for outdoor use then I'm not familiar with those sort.

hi, maybe try either the Eachine QX65 or a King KONG tiny 6. They both have the option of a DSM2/DSMX receiver. I think the E Flite Blade Inductrix FPV is DSM as well, although they are a bit expensive. You might find a secondhand one on EBay maybe. I have a King Kong Tiny 6 and I like it, although I have the FR Sky version. Steve

I don't think I've ever used my balsa plane so much before. I've built the Provost, now halfway through the Gnat. Got the fuselage all planed / sanded, fitted intakes and planed / sanded. Just planed the wings to profile ready for sanding. It's looking great now it is starting to take shape.

Sorry Geoff, I put down the wrong name!! I might try getting some of that vinyl to try. My cutter does do a print then cut setting too. Steve.

Mark, those decals look really good. I've not had much success printing on vinyl, the colours always seem dull when I print them. What vinyl did you use? My roundels I made by cutting red, white and blue discs on CriCut cutter and putting them together. The lettering was also cut on the cutter using the RAF font.

I wonder if a modeller who is operating electric models could fix the label with their ID number onto their battery packs? Surely then, every model that used those batteries would be carrying their ID number. Just a thought.

Looking good, Geoff 👍👍👍

Thanks Dick, that's a relief 😊

I received my Operator ID today but have just been looking into it a bit closer. It says on their website that the operator ID number is just for owning a model. Apparently, we also need a Flyer ID number to fly the model. Anyone know any more about this? Will they send that number seperately or do we need to apply for that? Here is a list of what we need with the prices from their website dont know if this link will work https://register-drones.caa.co.uk/individual/register-and-take-test-to-fly Prices Operator and flyer registration costs How you use drones or model aircraft ID numbers needed Cost You both fly and are responsible for them flyer ID and operator ID £9 You just fly other people's flyer ID £0 You’re only responsible and do not fly operator ID £9 Edited By Steve Nash 1 on 17/02/2020 19:37:06 Edited By Steve Nash 1 on 17/02/2020 19:40:47

I've just merged the operator ID number threads, just for neatness Thanks David, good job you are keeping on top of us messy so and so's, posting threads all over the place lol

Just received my Operator Number from the CAA. How ridiculous is it that it says the operator number may change when renewed next year, so use removable labels. Why on Earth couldn't we just keep the same ID number!! that means taking all the labels off next year and re-doing them again. I was going to paint the number inside the battery compartment of my edf models, as I don't fancy a label coming off and getting sucked through a rapidly spinning fan!! Will have to re-think that one. *** SO, WHATEVER YOU DO, DON'T MAKE THE NUMBERS PERMANENT ON YOUR MODELS AS YOU MIGHT HAVE TO CHANGE THEM !!! *** You have been warned 😠😠 Edited By Steve Nash 1 on 17/02/2020 14:51:06 Edited By David Ashby - Moderator on 17/02/2020 15:04:06

​​​​​​ the 'cream' colour was the colour I wanted for the plane. Good choice of colour for a vintage model. The plane in my profile picture is covered in cream and blue solartex. The cream can be combined with a good variety of contrasting colours if required. My plane should be in the April RCM&E in the ‘All Write’ column, so you can see it there too.

The best covering for a lovely big vintage model like that is Solartex iron on fabric if you can find some. Its hard to find now but very good. I stockpiled a hoard of it after they ceased production. It does come up on ebay now and then or at swap meets.

That is a pretty worthless test as it is giving you the time for the transmitter to boot and for the receiver to do its full DSM2 signal acquisition routine. Cycling the power on the receiver would give you the receiver's signal reacquisition time. I understand what you are saying, but I have done it with turning the receiver off and back on with the same results. As I said earlier, I still use my old JR built dx7 and that has never had any problems. Saying that, I also know of other flyers who have had no issues at all with newer radio's, so it seems the problem is random. I only knew it was my TX due to the fact that I had three identical signal loss problems with three different aircraft each with different genuine receivers and different battery packs on three different days, so there wasn't any link to each fault except the TX.   Edited By Steve Nash 1 on 16/02/2020 12:57:01

I really hope you get your model back, Pete. Hopefully the reg. number inside will work to your advantage and help it's return. I had three losses of control with a Spektrum dx9, all with different models and setups which resulted in the total loss of one model. I ended up getting rid of it and going back to Futaba 14SG with no problems since. I still have one of the old Spektrum dx7 transmitters that were built by JR and that TX is faultless. I use it on the bind'n'fly models that are readily available. One difference between Futaba and Spektrum that I have noticed is that With Futaba, if I sit my model in front of me and turn off the TX and then turn it back on, the radio link is re-established almost instantly, whereas if I do the same with Spektrum, the link can take 3 to 4 seconds to come back, which, if the model had been flying, is the difference between being able to save the model or reaching for the bin bags. Edited By Steve Nash 1 on 16/02/2020 11:30:16

Wow, that's a long time. I ordered two from Bangood last Year and they arrived in 7 days, which I wasn't expecting to happen!

Hi Geoff, looks like a nice neat build coming along there. I love the CNC cutting equipment, just a bit beyond me I think. I have built the Provost too but had to use my trusty bandsaw and scalpels for cutting out. Started on the Gnat now as well. The equipment you have would be a great help for some of the parts of these jets as they are a bit fiddly and delicate to cut by hand, just have to take it slow. I'm thinking of getting one of the SLEC building board kits like you have. Are they any good? I use a magnetic building board at the moment with modified lego blocks that are very versatile as they are infinitely adaptable. Steve

The Gnat is my choice. probably do the Red Arrows colour scheme or the silver/dayglo orange scheme like in Martins post above. Having already built and flown the Jet Provost and done the red, white and black colour scheme, I'm leaning towards the Red Arrows scheme on the Gnat as it's much simpler. Steve

Yes I agree, it's definitely built by me when I cut them out. Did that for the Provost too. And it's a lot cheaper. I've just made a vacuum forming box too, so I can hopefully make my own canopies and intakes etc as well. Steve Edited By Steve Nash 1 on 29/12/2019 09:47:53