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Nick Somerville

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Nick Somerville last won the day on October 3 2021

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  1. Brian, that is really helpful. I shall do some tests on the current battery and see where I am with it.
  2. Ok, so with Nigel’s helpful reply making 3 against, I shall bin the idea and keep the 1s battery has a handy supply to couple with my servo tester. Now if I could just get a bigger capacity battery of the same physical size as the 2200ma 30c I will be happy.
  3. Thanks Chris, strong reasons there to stick with 3s. The battery I have is already a snug fit inside the starter so any greater capacity 3s will need taping outside the unit.
  4. Many thanks indeed Brian. Very helpful, if not a bit worrying. The futaba lead does have thinner wiring than the deans on the 3s, but it is fairly robust and certainly not servo type stuff.
  5. As previously posted my Align starter struggles a bit on my Laser 180 powered models, partly I suspect as they both have small prop hubs as opposed to spinners. So my plan is to upgrade the 3s battery to 4s. The problem though is that it is a neat unit with the internal battery but a 4s won’t fit and it kind of defeats the point by strapping a 4s to the outside. So I bought a 1s 2200ma battery to wire in series as that way I can keep the 3s internally and have just the slim 1s taped to the outside of the starter. I thought it would be simplest to charge the batteries separately to avoid having to add a 4s balance plug and rewire the 3s appropriately. However I am struggling to work out how best to set up a way to wire up some plugs so I can add in the 1s in series. Any advice from electrical wizards would be much appreciated.
  6. This stuff is available and also from ebay https://www.gliders.uk.com/mobile/Blenderm-Hinge-Tape-5-Yds-x-1-inch-457m-x-26mm-DB916/productinfo/DB916/.
  7. This is how I hinged all my ailerons and flaps on high performance 1/4 scale sailplanes. Never had any come loose and over 15 years and so simple to do. This diagram was previously posted on here and saves a lengthy description of the technique. For the tape have a look for White Tessa or a tear proof clear scotch tape.
  8. The model doesn’t look too racy and has quite a generous amount of dihedral so my thoughts are that it will turn easily in thermals without a need for any flap deflection, which although might contribute to adding a little lift the increase in drag will offset the advantage. Therefore the best purpose for the flaps is to use them for steeps descent and landings for which a variable and large deflection is required. Top hingeing is more aesthetically pleasing when looking at the model on the ground, and in the air you won’t notice the underside gap. If you feel the need to cover the gap then mylar strip with double sided tape is a good option and the draft tape is pretty much that.
  9. I have yet to apply the final gloss coat. At present it is a satin finish. Satin is better for the markings to be sprayed on but they need fuel proofing, hence the choice of a final coat of clear Klasskote with a gloss catalyst. Here is a picture of the full size which is clearly very shiny, unsurprising since it is a modern day renovation. with various bits of fettling I have some colour touch ups still to do, so it’s been good to hold off the final gloss. However with the current warm weather it might be a good time to get on to it. Btw WJ321 at Yeovilton Air Museum certainly has a glossy finish too.
  10. 4 servos on one channel for flaps with individual reversing and end point adjustment. As there was a battery port on the matchbox seemed ideal to use a separate battery and avoid an extra lead to the fuselage. I am using a 9 channel powersafe dual battery receiver I had bought at a very reasonable price with 3 sats. Without the Matchbox I would need 11 channels and these days a 12 channel powersafe receiver is over £200!!!
  11. The tail retract locks out in the down position but not the up. I am not short on battery power as the twin 2200ma life batteries are only operating throttle, rudder, tail retract servos, air valve (mini servo, and two aileron servos. Flaps have a separate battery on the Matchbox.
  12. Spent an hour or so today fiddling with the tailwheel retract. I have a macgregor MG 5912 HV servo, from a previous model operating it and although the holding pressure on the linkage/mechanism in the retracted position is moderately light the servo constantly grumbles as digital servos can. Does this do any harm to the servo or cause any adverse current drain? All the servo is holding is the weight of the retract and wheel in the raised position so it can’t be more than 20-30grms.
  13. Here is how I have mounted the lead. I bolted an alloy engine mount half to the bottom of the firewall and bent up some 3mm threaded rod to make diagonal supports back up each side to the centre fixings of the radial mount. The roofing lead was weighed (1.75lbs) and cut into manageable sizes and fixed with two 5mm bolts either side of the mount, which clamped it all tightly in place. It will be easy enough to add or remove lead as required later. Other jobs done over the festive period has been to install the fuel tank and prepare the wiring for the remote glow. The tank is a 24oz Dubro one that is quite shallow. Hopefully this will mean the slightly low position of the tank relative to the carbs won’t be a problem. I drilled an extra hole in the bung and have separate clunk feeds to each carb, a clunk for fill and drain and a vent which exits at the bottom behind the cowl; facing forward for a little pressurisation. Next up on the front end is to finalise the exhaust extension set up, but I am awaiting a couple of parts for this. In the meantime I shall work on signing off each of the control surfaces and their operations. Thanks to everyone who has been following along my build this year, I really appreciate all the advice and kind comments. Have a great New Year and happy flying in 2022.
  14. Sounds brilliant #’all I want for Christmas’
  15. Yes the setup is a bit overkill, but kept me amused for a few hours. The carbon spinner I have came with a note suggesting not to use a starter in case the torque against a flooded engine damages the fixings .
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