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Jim Hughes 2

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  1. Many thanks for all advice, much appreciated. I know what a knowledgeable bunch you are! This is my second incarnation as an aero modeller, the last being in the late eighties / early nineties - no internet then! You were just on your own to figure stuff out. I’m probably going to have some more questions to ask going forward, but for another day. Have a great BH weekend!
  2. Afternoon All! I’m currently building an Acro Wot, it’s not my first, I had one way back in about 1988 - I absolutely loved it! It’s the proper kit, not ARTF. Covering advice? The instructions mention that it maybe beneficial to cover the Fuselage prior to fitting the vertical stabiliser and horizontal. Now, I remember on my original I didn’t do this, and it left the model difficult to cover with these in place. Now, there is a new supplement in the instructions saying that the vertical and horizontal must be glued firmly in place?! I’m thinking, as long as I leave covering material away from from the surfaces to be glued together, and to the fuselage - there shouldn’t be an issue? Any advice would be welcome. Thanks Jim.
  3. I understand what you are saying Ron, however there can be a bit of a trade off with thinner material (wrinkles) etc. Funnily I have some of that ‘white sign’ material that Paul mentions - I was looking at it the other day. I’ll probably do the thinner stripes with the Trim Line product. Thanks for all the advice.
  4. Hi all, I’m currently restoring and old glider from the early eighties - a Veron Vortex. I’m hoping to recreate the original colour scheme predominantly Orange with White stripes. I’ve purchased the iron on Orange film, however I’m reluctant to replicate the white stripes with iron on film - it would be a bit of a waste as the stripes really are not that big. I’m looking for some ideas for a white gloss, thin self adhesive material (not too thick) it doesn’t need to be fuel proof. What have others found successful? Must be able to cut to size etc and easy to apply. I’ve used Solartrim in the past, however that appears to be a bit thin on the ground - especially white.
  5. Hi Shaun, Agree, that is another option I’ve been toying with (upgrading the Ruckus) which I am considering. Bigger motor, more battery power etc. But as I’m completely new to electric flight - complete novice actually. Would that mean a new ESC? I’m just putting it out there for advice? I’m really loving my flying again, I can’t believe I dropped it for so long! I must admit, it’s not just the flying. That feeling you get when you are awaiting a DPD delivery of a new toy! Thats why I’m thinking another aircraft. Going back to my last incarnation as an RC flyer. It was all IC, battery stuff was rubbish - and the Transmitter certainly wasn’t programmable for multiple models!!! Thanks Jim.
  6. Hi all, Recently returned to model flying after a 25 year break. Thought I’d pick up where I left off with Nick Reeves Mirus! It’s a bit beyond my reactions and eyesight capability - although I absolutely love it. I soon realised I was struggling with it, so back to basics. A few weeks ago I purchased a Max Thrust Ruckus which I’m absolutely delighted with, I’m new to electric flight and have really been impressed with what it offers. However I’m after a bit more performance etc, and you can never have enough models! 25 years ago I was on a real shoestring budget - I’m in a better position now. Budget wise I think around £500 + or whatever. It’s got to be a low winger 4 channel aerobatic type, and look great - and be electric powered. With plenty of power! ARTF etc, foam type or other construction. I know there is loads of experienced helpful modellers on here, any tips or advice on what plane to go for next would be truly appreciated. Thank you Jim.
  7. Hi, I’m looking for a silencer for an OS Max SX 32 (35 mm hole centres) And a prop washer and perhaps thrust washer also? Its an ex Heli engine given to me that I want to use in an aircraft. it had a fan / coupling on the crankshaft. Thanks for looking, if you have anything let me know - cash waiting. Regards Jim.
  8. Gents apologies for late reply. And thank you all for advice. I’ve been using a Slec tank, I didn’t want to appear critical on an open forum. I have ordered a new Kavan tank today. I appreciate I could have made the Slec one work better, however I wasn’t keen on the design. It’s opaque construction restricted viewing of what was happening inside the tank - I’d like to be able to see what is going on. Regards Jim
  9. Evening Gentlemen! More fuel supply woes tonight - no flying and I’m running out of light in the evenings. Vertical supply again… Stripped it out as soon as I got home and could not feel or see clunk in the tank, when I tried to remove the clunk and pipe it was trapped in a cavity at the front of tank ( it had folded back on itself) so obviously that was the issue. I’d had a far from smooth landing last week which I’m sure resulted in this. I don’t wish to name the tank I’m using, as I feel it’s unnecessary-but I’m far from happy with it. I just think it’s a bit on the cheap side. Back in the day I used to use Kavan, and I’ve found one, but I always remember the rubber bungs always deteriorated over time. I think a good quality tank is the answer. What do you guys recommend?
  10. Hi Ken, I am returning to the hobby after a very long break, about 25 years! I started as a teenager in about 1985 with a Mick Reeves Hawk, then a Ken Stokes Mirus, then an Acro Wot and finally a Cambrian Fun Fighter Spitfire. I then gave it all up. I was idly googling during Lockdown last year and stumbled upon Nick Reeves on YouTube and realised he’d started reproduction of the Mirus. I had no real intention of starting the hobby again, but one thing lead to another - and here I am!
  11. Gentlemen, Absolutely spot on. Second flick and she was away (gotta love an OS!) Wound the needle out two clicks and no problem vertical, wound the needle in a a couple of clicks - perfect in both planes and a full tank through. I’ll try it again later, I think the neighbours are probably awake now! Many, many thanks for all the replies. Sincere regards Jim ?
  12. Guys, many thanks for all your advice. ive cut about 5mm off the clunk tube, and renewed other tubing. The tank is at a good height to engine and close. I’m going to fire it up again this afternoon, try a richer setting and I’ll report back later
  13. Pffft ? Sorry guys. School boy error. I’ve just taken the tank out - the clunk is hitting the back of the tank. I’ll get my coat….
  14. Morning chaps. It’s an upright mounted engine. yeah it will run a full tank in the horizontal. Plumbing in tank? Fuel feed line from clunk? I apologise for repost from newbies. And really appreciate there is a lot of knowledge out there! The last time I was involved in this hobby over a 1/4 of a century ago - the internet was in its infancy!
  15. Also in the newbie thread. Ok apologies for this late but extremely early post 05:20 in the morning! A couple of weeks ago I had the first flight with the Mirus - terrifying! But, successful! However, we went out last week with it, decided to lean the engine of a bit, after a couple of circuits stood it on its tail - the engine cut. I had to make a hasty landing, the prop broke and I didn’t have a spare. Good old RC World sent me out some new props rapidly and I was running it yesterday. Same thing, absolutely fine on horizontal, point the nose up, after a few seconds it leans off rapidly and just stops. I’ve tried running it richer and it doesn’t make much difference. Clunk is not hitting back of tank etc, it’s had about 15 tanks of fuel through it - so run in? It’s an OS 35 Max (new) running on good quality fuel. Any advice would be welcome.
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